Question standpipe/tube - F-Series & SuperDuty Diesel Forums

Blackduck1 · 12-26-2011, 04:33 PM

How would you know if your standpipe/tube has gone bad?

DaveBen · 12-26-2011, 07:02 PM

Which pipe are you referring to?

Dave

Yooper75 · 12-27-2011, 08:46 PM

Dave, I think he is talking about the up pipe and the bellows that crack and start to whistle.

DaveBen · 12-27-2011, 11:06 PM

Couldn't tell by the post. Thanks Yooper!

Dave

Blackduck1 · 12-29-2011, 07:50 PM

I'm not sure guy at the shop says I need them just by changing the oil. I took it in for an oil leak and the estimate without tearing the engine down was crazy! Not trying to bad mouth anybody just asking for my own sanity!
I could or could not need all these things but I'm just trying to figure out a few things thats all.
I usually do all my own work on my gas engine cars but, I'm new to diesels so if I sound crazy or say something that doesn't make any sense feel free to correct me I can take it I have thick skin.
I'm not exactly sure said something about pulling the valve cover to get to the part. Also to change the HPOP STG fitting whats that normally run and is there extinsive work to get to it?

Thanks DaveBen and Yooper75 for taking the time to read and help!

DaveBen · 12-29-2011, 08:23 PM

The HPOP is in the valley of the top of the motor. You need to remover the intake and turbo and associated items, so yes it can cost. I still have no idea of what you mean by stand pipe. Can you be more specific?? And what were you quoted for this work?

Dave

Yooper75 · 12-30-2011, 08:53 AM

Where is the oil leak coming from on the motor? If it's coming off the back of the motor it could possibly be the O-rings between the turbo and the motor. If it's in the valley it could be the HPOP or it could be the oil cooler which is very common on the older 6.0's. If it's the O-rings between the motor and the turbo I have been told by Ford techs to leave them alone until the truck really starts losing oil and marking it's territory. If it's the oil cooler or HPOP I would look at doing them immediately because if either of those fail it could damage the motor will cost even more to fix.

Blackduck1 · 12-30-2011, 05:52 PM

They gave me a few different things to take care of but I am taking care of the HPOP fitting and I may install a new oil cooler. As for this stand tube I guess its under the valve cover i'm not really sure. I am going to buy the Helm inc shop manual and start doing my work myself I'm a pretty good mechanic thats why I'm kicking myself in the ass for having anything done that I know I can do I just need to learn more about this engine.
As for a quote they didn't really give me one for any one specific thing thats the what my issue is. I was never really told what the actual leak was it was always said "well it could be this or that my recommendation is put all these parts on and you won't have to worry about anything anymore" something to that effect! I didn't really get a true answer to what was actually leaking.

Yooper75 · 12-30-2011, 06:22 PM

You don't have to replace the oil cooler, they are able to be rebuilt and it's also cheaper to get the rebuild kit for them than buy a new one. If I remember correctly it's $1500 new compared to $300-$400 for the rebuild kit

Blackduck1 · 12-31-2011, 01:07 PM

Yeah I figured there was a cheaper way! They wanted me to install an aftermarket kit when all said and done it would cost me around $6500. The kit isn't bad though its a good kit, I just didn't want to spend all that right after I spent a ton on xmas gifts for the family and I bought new tires for the truck before it went down.
Thanks again Yooper75

12-26-2011, 04:33 PM	#1
Blackduck1 SDD Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Signal Hill CA, Posts: 12 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post View Photos By: Blackduck1	standpipe/tube How would you know if your standpipe/tube has gone bad? __________________ [/SIGPIC]2004 King Ranch Cc SB. Fabtech 4.0 Dirt Logic Lift, 22" KMC Monsters 37" Toyos.

12-26-2011, 07:02 PM	#2
DaveBen SDD Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Ukiah, California Posts: 7,866 Thanks: 127 Thanked 505 Times in 488 Posts	Which pipe are you referring to? Dave __________________ 2004 F-350 Regular cab with 6.0, Torqshift, 4X4, and just about all of the rest of the options. I added Guages, Satellite Radio, Air Horns, and a coolant filter. Bilstein shocks. Battery Desulphater that really works. Installed Jimmi Jammers. Pictures here: http://community.webshots.com/user/dbennett48 Completely Stock. I had a Detroit Diesel 8V92TA in a KW dump truck in 1980. That sucker would put out 425 hp but would never out pull a CAT.

12-27-2011, 08:46 PM	#3
Yooper75 Boost Junky Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Michigans Upper Pennisula Posts: 324 Thanks: 23 Thanked 34 Times in 31 Posts	Dave, I think he is talking about the up pipe and the bellows that crack and start to whistle. __________________ Dave 2006 F350 FX4 CC 6.0 PSD Some stock stuff and some not so stock stuff.....

12-27-2011, 11:06 PM	#4
DaveBen SDD Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Ukiah, California Posts: 7,866 Thanks: 127 Thanked 505 Times in 488 Posts	Couldn't tell by the post. Thanks Yooper! Dave __________________ 2004 F-350 Regular cab with 6.0, Torqshift, 4X4, and just about all of the rest of the options. I added Guages, Satellite Radio, Air Horns, and a coolant filter. Bilstein shocks. Battery Desulphater that really works. Installed Jimmi Jammers. Pictures here: http://community.webshots.com/user/dbennett48 Completely Stock. I had a Detroit Diesel 8V92TA in a KW dump truck in 1980. That sucker would put out 425 hp but would never out pull a CAT.

12-29-2011, 07:50 PM	#5
Blackduck1 SDD Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Signal Hill CA, Posts: 12 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post View Photos By: Blackduck1	I'm not sure guy at the shop says I need them just by changing the oil. I took it in for an oil leak and the estimate without tearing the engine down was crazy! Not trying to bad mouth anybody just asking for my own sanity! I could or could not need all these things but I'm just trying to figure out a few things thats all. I usually do all my own work on my gas engine cars but, I'm new to diesels so if I sound crazy or say something that doesn't make any sense feel free to correct me I can take it I have thick skin. I'm not exactly sure said something about pulling the valve cover to get to the part. Also to change the HPOP STG fitting whats that normally run and is there extinsive work to get to it? Thanks DaveBen and Yooper75 for taking the time to read and help! __________________ [/SIGPIC]2004 King Ranch Cc SB. Fabtech 4.0 Dirt Logic Lift, 22" KMC Monsters 37" Toyos.

12-29-2011, 08:23 PM	#6
DaveBen SDD Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Ukiah, California Posts: 7,866 Thanks: 127 Thanked 505 Times in 488 Posts	The HPOP is in the valley of the top of the motor. You need to remover the intake and turbo and associated items, so yes it can cost. I still have no idea of what you mean by stand pipe. Can you be more specific?? And what were you quoted for this work? Dave __________________ 2004 F-350 Regular cab with 6.0, Torqshift, 4X4, and just about all of the rest of the options. I added Guages, Satellite Radio, Air Horns, and a coolant filter. Bilstein shocks. Battery Desulphater that really works. Installed Jimmi Jammers. Pictures here: http://community.webshots.com/user/dbennett48 Completely Stock. I had a Detroit Diesel 8V92TA in a KW dump truck in 1980. That sucker would put out 425 hp but would never out pull a CAT.

12-30-2011, 08:53 AM	#7
Yooper75 Boost Junky Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Michigans Upper Pennisula Posts: 324 Thanks: 23 Thanked 34 Times in 31 Posts	Where is the oil leak coming from on the motor? If it's coming off the back of the motor it could possibly be the O-rings between the turbo and the motor. If it's in the valley it could be the HPOP or it could be the oil cooler which is very common on the older 6.0's. If it's the O-rings between the motor and the turbo I have been told by Ford techs to leave them alone until the truck really starts losing oil and marking it's territory. If it's the oil cooler or HPOP I would look at doing them immediately because if either of those fail it could damage the motor will cost even more to fix. __________________ Dave 2006 F350 FX4 CC 6.0 PSD Some stock stuff and some not so stock stuff.....

12-30-2011, 05:52 PM	#8
Blackduck1 SDD Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Signal Hill CA, Posts: 12 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post View Photos By: Blackduck1	They gave me a few different things to take care of but I am taking care of the HPOP fitting and I may install a new oil cooler. As for this stand tube I guess its under the valve cover i'm not really sure. I am going to buy the Helm inc shop manual and start doing my work myself I'm a pretty good mechanic thats why I'm kicking myself in the ass for having anything done that I know I can do I just need to learn more about this engine. As for a quote they didn't really give me one for any one specific thing thats the what my issue is. I was never really told what the actual leak was it was always said "well it could be this or that my recommendation is put all these parts on and you won't have to worry about anything anymore" something to that effect! I didn't really get a true answer to what was actually leaking. __________________ [/SIGPIC]2004 King Ranch Cc SB. Fabtech 4.0 Dirt Logic Lift, 22" KMC Monsters 37" Toyos.

12-30-2011, 06:22 PM	#9
Yooper75 Boost Junky Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Michigans Upper Pennisula Posts: 324 Thanks: 23 Thanked 34 Times in 31 Posts	You don't have to replace the oil cooler, they are able to be rebuilt and it's also cheaper to get the rebuild kit for them than buy a new one. If I remember correctly it's $1500 new compared to $300-$400 for the rebuild kit __________________ Dave 2006 F350 FX4 CC 6.0 PSD Some stock stuff and some not so stock stuff.....

12-31-2011, 01:07 PM	#10
Blackduck1 SDD Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Signal Hill CA, Posts: 12 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post View Photos By: Blackduck1	Yeah I figured there was a cheaper way! They wanted me to install an aftermarket kit when all said and done it would cost me around $6500. The kit isn't bad though its a good kit, I just didn't want to spend all that right after I spent a ton on xmas gifts for the family and I bought new tires for the truck before it went down. Thanks again Yooper75 __________________ [/SIGPIC]2004 King Ranch Cc SB. Fabtech 4.0 Dirt Logic Lift, 22" KMC Monsters 37" Toyos.

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