Block heater stopped working - F-Series & SuperDuty Diesel Forums

Ironmerganser · 01-11-2012, 07:25 PM

So about a week ago my block heater just stopped working. I haven't had a chance to look at it in the day light yet, but they aren't fused or anything are they? It is basically just an extension cord with a heating element on the end correct?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

DaveBen · 01-11-2012, 10:48 PM

Yes sir, no fuses. Put an ohm meter across the plug and see if you get about 15 ohms, if open it is shot.

Dave

JRJ04 · 01-12-2012, 06:42 PM

if you have to end up changing out the heating element...i wonder if youll have to drain your coolant or is the elemet housed in something?

DaveBen · 01-12-2012, 07:41 PM

You gotta drain it OR wear it. Easier to drain the coolant, fix the heater, re-fill; than to mop up spilled coolant.

Dave

iracemine · 01-13-2012, 07:12 AM

I was on my second cord before my plug went. Make sure your cord is good before you go replacing the plug.

Ironmerganser · 01-18-2012, 07:33 PM

Does the cord just un plug from the back of the element?

iracemine · 01-19-2012, 07:06 AM

yup.

BIG JOE · 01-19-2012, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ironmerganser

Does the cord just un plug from the back of the element?

Quote:

Originally Posted by iracemine

yup.

And if it is just the cord.. it might be a good idea to upgrade the wire gauge and the plug ends.

JMO but I think Ford (IH) could have used a more adequate cord.. for 1500 watts. My plug ends were melted some, around the neutral & load lugs.

Joe

Ironmerganser · 01-19-2012, 08:43 PM

OK....I like the idea of improving the cord (bigger is better I always say!!)

So....How do I go about doing that? I mean, I know how ot improve the plug end and the cord, but how do I improve the end that plugs into the element?

BIG JOE · 01-19-2012, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ironmerganser

OK....I like the idea of improving the cord (bigger is better I always say!!)

So....How do I go about doing that? I mean, I know how ot improve the plug end and the cord, but how do I improve the end that plugs into the element?

Don't know the configuration on a 6.4 but......

I [soldered] in a splice, about 6" from the element plug.

Another fix to Amp load/voltage loss is: Use a Heavy Duty (12 ga minimum, 10 ga is better) extension cord to supply power to the Block Heater cord.... through a 20 amp (Min) timer.... on a circuit that doesn't have any other demands on it, during the time period you have the timer set for ?

Joe

FWIW ? I made up a dedicated, 10 gauge cord.. that is [Just Long Enough].. to reach from the timer.. to my Block Heater plug. Minimum Amp load/voltage loss ?

01-11-2012, 07:25 PM	#1
Ironmerganser Ironmerganser Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 303 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Block heater stopped working So about a week ago my block heater just stopped working. I haven't had a chance to look at it in the day light yet, but they aren't fused or anything are they? It is basically just an extension cord with a heating element on the end correct? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. __________________ 2008 F350 King Ranch Crew Cab 4x4. Mini Maxx, S&B intake, "new exhaust". Its the biggest dog taxi in town!!! www.vdd-gna.org

01-11-2012, 10:48 PM	#2
DaveBen SDD Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Ukiah, California Posts: 7,866 Thanks: 127 Thanked 505 Times in 488 Posts	Yes sir, no fuses. Put an ohm meter across the plug and see if you get about 15 ohms, if open it is shot. Dave __________________ 2004 F-350 Regular cab with 6.0, Torqshift, 4X4, and just about all of the rest of the options. I added Guages, Satellite Radio, Air Horns, and a coolant filter. Bilstein shocks. Battery Desulphater that really works. Installed Jimmi Jammers. Pictures here: http://community.webshots.com/user/dbennett48 Completely Stock. I had a Detroit Diesel 8V92TA in a KW dump truck in 1980. That sucker would put out 425 hp but would never out pull a CAT.

01-12-2012, 06:42 PM	#3
JRJ04 Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 1,607 Thanks: 5 Thanked 70 Times in 69 Posts	if you have to end up changing out the heating element...i wonder if youll have to drain your coolant or is the elemet housed in something? __________________ Jourdan 2011 F250 FX4 King Ranch, 6.7L LOADED SOLD: 2002 F250 Lariat 4x4, 7.3L DIY Intake w/ Pete's filter cover, Zoodad, 4 inch exhaust turbo to tip, DP Tuner F5 (no start, stock, high idle, 60hp tow, 80hp econo, 120 hp race), Isspro Gauges: egt, boost, tranny (thank you girlfriend!), Dieselsite Coolant Filter, AIH Delete, HPX Line, in-tank & pre-pump mods, FPR shimmed to 70 psi, Hawk Brake Pads and Powerslot Rotors, Dieselsite WW, new turbo at 150k, Royal Purple in the driveline, Rhino Bedliner, 285/75 BFG AT's, Power/Heated Trailer Tow Mirrors, Bilstein Shocks, 203* T-Stat, Dieselsite Billet T-Stat Housing, Door Seal Mod, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve, Passport 9500i hardwired in w/ smartcord, A toolbox full of goodies and a few other things here and there

01-12-2012, 07:41 PM	#4
DaveBen SDD Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Ukiah, California Posts: 7,866 Thanks: 127 Thanked 505 Times in 488 Posts	You gotta drain it OR wear it. Easier to drain the coolant, fix the heater, re-fill; than to mop up spilled coolant. Dave __________________ 2004 F-350 Regular cab with 6.0, Torqshift, 4X4, and just about all of the rest of the options. I added Guages, Satellite Radio, Air Horns, and a coolant filter. Bilstein shocks. Battery Desulphater that really works. Installed Jimmi Jammers. Pictures here: http://community.webshots.com/user/dbennett48 Completely Stock. I had a Detroit Diesel 8V92TA in a KW dump truck in 1980. That sucker would put out 425 hp but would never out pull a CAT.

01-13-2012, 07:12 AM	#5
iracemine black and tan Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Cheese Curtain Posts: 911 Thanks: 46 Thanked 43 Times in 39 Posts	I was on my second cord before my plug went. Make sure your cord is good before you go replacing the plug. __________________ coolant filter (dieselsite), CCV Mod (home made), 4" MBRP turbo back (dieselsite), turbo temp monitor (ISSPROdieselsite), DIY triple gauge kit (ITPdeisel), "fuel filler mod" (home made), stock 7.3 99.5' 2WD W/ more power than I need. Be green... drink kegged beer! www.micromatic.com you'll thank me

01-18-2012, 07:33 PM	#6
Ironmerganser Ironmerganser Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 303 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Does the cord just un plug from the back of the element? __________________ 2008 F350 King Ranch Crew Cab 4x4. Mini Maxx, S&B intake, "new exhaust". Its the biggest dog taxi in town!!! www.vdd-gna.org

01-19-2012, 07:06 AM	#7
iracemine black and tan Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Cheese Curtain Posts: 911 Thanks: 46 Thanked 43 Times in 39 Posts	yup. __________________ coolant filter (dieselsite), CCV Mod (home made), 4" MBRP turbo back (dieselsite), turbo temp monitor (ISSPROdieselsite), DIY triple gauge kit (ITPdeisel), "fuel filler mod" (home made), stock 7.3 99.5' 2WD W/ more power than I need. Be green... drink kegged beer! www.micromatic.com you'll thank me

01-19-2012, 08:43 PM	#9
Ironmerganser Ironmerganser Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Omaha, NE Posts: 303 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	OK....I like the idea of improving the cord (bigger is better I always say!!) So....How do I go about doing that? I mean, I know how ot improve the plug end and the cord, but how do I improve the end that plugs into the element? __________________ 2008 F350 King Ranch Crew Cab 4x4. Mini Maxx, S&B intake, "new exhaust". Its the biggest dog taxi in town!!! www.vdd-gna.org

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