|
Please Support our Advertisers, they help keep the lights on! |
|
|||||||
| Notices |
| 7.3L PowerStroke Power & Performance Discussion of Power and Performance upgrades for the 7.3L PowerStroke Diesel & Drivetrain |
| Member Galleries - Add or Edit Your Gallery | ||||
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
SDD Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 22
Thanks: 5
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
|
I have a 2002 F250 7.3 SuperDuty (I love it), bone stock (except for Stancor GPR upgrade), that I want to begin upgrading over a period of time. I am thinking new intake, exhaust, tuner, maybe eventually a new turbo.
First thing I think I want to do is install an A-pillar gauge pod. It seems most threads I'm reading folks go for a three pod setup with EGT, Boost and Trans Temp. What does everyone think about that choice? Also, what is wrong with the stock Trans Temp gauge in the instrument cluster? Just not accurate enough? Appreciate any replies! Also, side note....the dials on my hubs have been stuck ever since I owned the truck and ESOF no longer works. I am installing new Mile Marker 449SS's this weekend and plugging off the vacuum lines. Transfer case engages just fine, but hubs don't lock and starts blowing air out of defroster. Tired of messing with it.
__________________
2002 F250 Superduty XLT | 7.3 Powerstroke | Leer Cap | Stancor relay | Mile Marker 449SS Hubs Last edited by rocketdog; 01-06-2012 at 01:44 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
SDD Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: CenCal
Posts: 4,377
Thanks: 101
Thanked 392 Times in 381 Posts
|
Your choice of a Boost, EGT and a REAL Trans temp is a good one.
As has been discussed many times on here, and other sites.. The Ford trans temp gauges Are Not To Be Trusted, nor are they Real Time temps, as temps rise and fall. They read NORMAL.. then go into the RED.. as, or after.. it's To Late. (same with the Coolant/Engine temp gauge, IMO) I would defer your 4WD issues to the 4WD guyz & galz. ![]() (Somewhere in your Mod Wish list.. a Coolant Filter would be a REAL good Insurance mod. The cooling systems on these things.. are purdy well contaminated with Casting Sand and, by now.. Scale ? Joe
__________________
2K, F-350, 7.3L, DRW, XLT, XCAB, 3:73s, 6spd... LUK clutch, Adrenaline Hpop, 175/146cc Single Shots w/DP tunes to match, AIS w/Fender sleeve, Zoodad (kinda), Comp/whl, upgraded W/gate actuator, BPRV, EBPV wired as a X-brake, AIH delete, 6.0 Inter-cooler, upgraded I/C Tubes, Full 4" exhst, Aeroturbin, MagnaFlow, Heater core bypass, 203* thermo, Gold coolant w/filter, HPX mod, Raycor 3550 CCV (Mod'd), Premo by-pass oil refiner, 4 gauge "A" pillar pod, FPR shimmed @ 70 psi, 160 amp Alt, Fuel pump inlet QD fitting delete w/Dahl pre pump filter, all Tank & fill hose mods. Frozen Rotor Brake assemblies X4. Viair 20008 OBA, Mag-Hytec Dif cover, Centramatic's, Bilsteins, Ride-Rites, 960cca AGM Batts, all lights LED's. TTMs/C-Beters, Garmin 465T GPS, Door seal Mod,(((XM))), Pull a 32ft Montana 5r, LED'd. Greasable Dexter spring sets. Air Ride Hitch pin box. Last edited by BIG JOE; 01-06-2012 at 09:02 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
SDD Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: puyallup wa
Posts: 54
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
|
Could be overkill, most tuners have the gauges in them
__________________
Spartan tuned 4" down pipe back 2 1/2 inch lift AFe air box |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
This is FORD Country
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Eudora, KS
Posts: 945
Thanks: 11
Thanked 64 Times in 63 Posts
|
Yer definately goin in the right direction before your engine mods. Those are the 3 gauges I got from autometer. IMO autometer is the way to go. They have alot of choices for our superduty's. ISSPRO makes good gauges too but seems more people go for the autometers. There is also Glowshift which look cool but when i was researching gauges, their quality was hit and miss. The price was cheap enough. My cousin bought the glowshifts and i wasnt happy with the pillar pod it came with, ****ty lookin. The stock temp gauges gives you a very very rough idea of the temp. If you cant spend the bucks on all yer mods up front, i would suggest just cuttin yer muffler off and doin the DIY intake. A few yrs ago the airfilter cost me like $68 bucks. Big power diffs with these two upgrades. 7.3's seem to do better with a chip rather than a programmer. DP is a common option.
__________________
1999 Ford F250 Superduty 4x4 sb ext cab 7.3L DIY Intake-MBRP 4" turbo back smokers kit with dual 6" Miter stacks-Autometer UltraLite Triple pillar gauge KMC HPX SS Crossover Line-Shimmed FPR 74-75psi AIH delete-ZooDad Mod-08 rear diff cover-Harpoon mod-Hutch mod-Recon LED smoked cab lights Bed liner on bottom 1/4 of truck-Fumoto drain valve 275k and counting!
|
|
|
|
| The Following User Says Thank You to Stroked68 For This Useful Post: |
|
|
#5 |
|
SDD Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 22
Thanks: 5
Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts
|
I might have mis-spoke about a tuner. What I probably meant was a chip. Looks like DP has the kind of stuff I am looking for.
Also, I like gauges. I want to have those dials where I can see 'em! From what I've seen, probably go with the AutoMeter's. That's what I run in my circle track car.
__________________
2002 F250 Superduty XLT | 7.3 Powerstroke | Leer Cap | Stancor relay | Mile Marker 449SS Hubs |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
SDD Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 99
Thanks: 2
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
|
I went with the glowshift and other than the pod being glossier than the dash, the gauges are great. I had an issue with an led going out and they warrantied me a whole new gauge in a short 2 days so Im happy with their service as well. I figured I could upgrade to some fancy digital ones over time, i just didnt have the funding to dish out 600 bucks on nice gauges. they read plenty accurate or at least the readings were in line with what stock reading would be before my tuner.
__________________
2001 F-350 crew cab 7.3, stock motor, 3 leveling kit, 35 inch mud terrain txrs, Glowshift 3 gauge pillar pod with egt, trans temp, and boost, DP tuner with 60 econo, 80 towing, 120 race, 4" turbo back exhaust with muffler delete, Zoodad mod, sirius stiletto II, Pioneer H/U, Alpine 600w amp, 12 inch Alpine type S shallow mount sub, weatherguard tool box, ..... more to come. 111k.... Just getting warmed up |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
ursus combibo
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: 49041
Posts: 3,796
Thanks: 37
Thanked 265 Times in 249 Posts
|
where's Joe (CSIPSD) when you need him.....
trans temp, exhaust temp and boost minimum...
__________________
John '99 F250 7.3L auto 4wd CC/SB |
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
SDD Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: CenCal
Posts: 4,377
Thanks: 101
Thanked 392 Times in 381 Posts
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
SDD Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 17
Thanks: 1
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
|
I have a triple pillar with old school Banks guages (boost, pyro, trans) that are housing face illuminated. Yuck! Banks makes great stuff, but way back then, the guages on the market are not what they are today.
One of my gauges has a face whose diameter doesn't reach all the way to the inner surface of it's cylindrical housing, leaving a circumferential glare peaking around the face like a total eclipse, a blinding halo, (as opposed to back lit) that boders upon irritating to view at night. However, 12 years ago, the Isspro EV hadn't been invented yet, let alone the Isspro EV2. If I had to redo the pillar pod again today, (they didn't have pre made kits back then), I would definitely get guages that had back lit numbers. I would pay the extra for that, now that that is a choice. It wasn't back then. In fact, I'd probably go with either the Isspro EV2 or the newest Isspro Performax (something like that) series, which look the same as the EV2 only instead of having all the circuitry stand alone, the Performwhatevers are multiplexed over a 3 wire network to a required external brainmodule that can control and integrate and log and even download to an Excel spreadsheet all the data from up to 17 guages. Some folks get all fancy with white faces and blue numbers and italiziced fonts, but for our era 1999-2003 dashboards, I like matching the factory look... black face, white block numbers that turn green at night and illuminate from behind, red/orange pointer that illuminates from within at night, and a bezel that can be any color but chrome. Flat black is usually best. Don't want any glinting that close to my eyes from an A pillar that is more exposed to the sun and streetlights to reflect at a 45 degree angle right at my face than most other parts of the interior. If I had a 2002, I might consider an alternative location other than the A pillar, cause I might miss the handle that was put on the driver's side A pillar some time in the 2002 model year. I know the steering wheel is there, but for tilt wheel trucks, it isn't good on the tilt teeth to pull full hoisting weight on the wheel when the tilt gear isn't fully meshed. I don't have that driver's side handle in my Y2K, but if I did, I'd consider some of the other cool guage pod options from Autometer. Even though I'd get Isspro guages, I'd get the pods from Autometer. There is one that surrounds the instrument cluster, with two guages... but a third and a fourth guage can be installed in the flat area on either side of the steering wheel. The left hand side must be a short depth guage on the lower flat area. This pod will block the wait to start light, but one can usually listen for the fuel pump to stop and the vacuum pump to stop... and that is about the same time it takes for the glow plugs to heat up enough to signal the wait to start light to go out. Then there is the triple pod that mounts below the cubby hole. And the quad pod that mounts above the rear view mirror. And then there are Edge type looking screen modules that in a single pillar pod that fits below the factory handle can display multiple data points on the screen. Then there is the single pod that mounts on the steering wheel, and you can put a Hypermax combo boost / pyro gauge on... that for a 2.fraction sized small gauge is surprisingly easy to read, the way the two needles are arranged... asymetrically one above the other. Their asymmetry keeps the two values from getting confused at a glance, and they are indexed so all is good at noon, so to speak. There are so many options out there! It is a good choice to get something to monitor boost pyro and trans, so you are on the right track. But you also talk about adding other mods and moving on from there. The next guage I personally would like to add is a fuel pressure guage. Then, a HPOP guage. Those are the two I'd really like to have, but I've forgotten how to do many of the things I used to know how to do when I was younger and had the entire dash apart before to cleanly wire my A pillar pod... so I'm going to wait until my younger neighbor, who just bought a used 2002 PSD himself, undertakes putting his guages in. I'll help him, and in turn, I'll have someone a bit sharper around to keep me on track. Last edited by Y2KW57; 01-11-2012 at 01:19 AM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
SDD Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Ukiah, California
Posts: 7,869
Thanks: 127
Thanked 506 Times in 489 Posts
|
I would stay away from anything that has a separate controller that runs the gauges. Ford currently has that and it is no good. I am sure Isspro is somewhat smarter than Ford on the programming, but it is still programmed and subject to electrical problems. Go standard hard wired gauges for the best readings every time.
Dave
__________________
2004 F-350 Regular cab with 6.0, Torqshift, 4X4, and just about all of the rest of the options. I added Guages, Satellite Radio, Air Horns, and a coolant filter. Bilstein shocks. Battery Desulphater that really works. Installed Jimmi Jammers. Pictures here: http://community.webshots.com/user/dbennett48 Completely Stock. I had a Detroit Diesel 8V92TA in a KW dump truck in 1980. That sucker would put out 425 hp but would never out pull a CAT. |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
|
|