05 6L losing coolant from degas cap AGAIN!!

[fordman60]

hey guys any chance losing cooolant from the degas cap only under load could be anything but head gaskets? i have removed the egr cooler so cant be that, oil cooler was changed about a year ago when ford did my hg under warranty.

last time i had same symptoms, losing coolant under load, but i had them install an ARP stud kit, so i am hoping this is not the case again!!!!!!!

if the oil cooler is plugged up, can it cause overpressurization of the cooling system?

i was using a Superchips Flash Paq, but i removed it when i started losing coolant again.

i have no steam/ white smoke from the tailpipe.

could it be an injector o ring leaking pressure into the cooling system? i belive the injectors are cooled by the coolant, are they not?


enough questions yet? lol get back to me asap please with any info

:d unno

[egregg57]

Gauges are a good start if you do not already have them. ScanGuageII, Edge Insight ETC. A delta of more than about 15 degrees between EOT/ECT would suggest a cooler plugging issue. If the Oil Cooler is plugged it could cause increased temperature and pressurization of the coolant system.

How much coolant are you talking about and how much is your load?

But check the simple stuff first. Coolant level should be read full at the low level mark of the degass bottle (unless you have the updated decal affixed). Coolant filled to the 1/2 to full mark can cause coolant, when hot to be pushed out of the degass bottle cap pressure relief valve.

I am also having this issue under load while towing a fifth wheel (Outback 325FRE GVWR 12,050) I am spitting coolant from the degass bottle cap when towing and pulling the fifth wheel up grades.

During normal operation, without a load I do not see this. During the winter I intend on having some tests done. One of them is testing for Hydrocarbons in the coolant. That would be a dead give away for head gaskets.

Check to see that your Degass bottle is in good shape and there are no cracks in it. Especially at the rear of the bottle near the turbo. Additionally if you had a previous situation (such as an EGR cooler/Oil Cooler failure) where the pressure relief valve of the Degass cap was challenged, it may be worth the 12 dollars to chage the cap out.

When your ARP studs were installed the Head Gaskets were not changed?

[JLDickmon]

Originally Posted by egregg57

Gauges are a good start if you do not already have them. ScanGuageII, Edge Insight ETC. A delta of more than about 15 degrees between EOT/ECT would suggest a cooler plugging issue. If the Oil Cooler is plugged it could cause increased temperature and pressurization of the coolant system.

How much coolant are you talking about and how much is your load?

But check the simple stuff first. Coolant level should be read full at the low level mark of the degass bottle (unless you have the updated decal affixed). Coolant filled to the 1/2 to full mark can cause coolant, when hot to be pushed out of the degass bottle cap pressure relief valve.

I am also having this issue under load while towing a fifth wheel (Outback 325FRE GVWR 12,050) I am spitting coolant from the degass bottle cap when towing and pulling the fifth wheel up grades.

During normal operation, without a load I do not see this. During the winter I intend on having some tests done. One of them is testing for Hydrocarbons in the coolant. That would be a dead give away for head gaskets.

Check to see that your Degass bottle is in good shape and there are no cracks in it. Especially at the rear of the bottle near the turbo. Additionally if you had a previous situation (such as an EGR cooler/Oil Cooler failure) where the pressure relief valve of the Degass cap was challenged, it may be worth the 12 dollars to chage the cap out.

When your ARP studs were installed the Head Gaskets were not changed?

I like this guy!

[Dogman]

I had the same problem on my 04. I deleted the the egr cooler and stud the heads and was still blowing coolant out. Your going to have to pull the motor a part again.Two thing need to really look for are a crack in one of the piston cyl. walls mine was in the the driver side back cyl. below the top oil ring of the piston. Both the dealer and bill at powerstrokehelp missed it. Also did you have the heads fluxed and tested for cracks and a level deck? They head are know for cracks between the valves.

[fordman60]

Originally Posted by Dogman

I had the same problem on my 04. I deleted the the egr cooler and stud the heads and was still blowing coolant out. Your going to have to pull the motor a part again.Two thing need to really look for are a crack in one of the piston cyl. walls mine was in the the driver side back cyl. below the top oil ring of the piston. Both the dealer and bill at powerstrokehelp missed it. Also did you have the heads fluxed and tested for cracks and a level deck? They head are know for cracks between the valves.

dogman if the cylinder wall was cracked, wouldnt there be coolant entering the cylinder on down stroke, causing white smoke?

[fordman60]

Originally Posted by JLDickmon

I like this guy!

it is now losing coolant with no load, just cruising down the highway at 70- 80 mph

bottle is good , with the sticker. havent overfilled it i am losing enough coolant when driving it hard to make the fenderwell wet and make a mess on the air filter housing

i have never had an egr or oil cooler failure.

since the head gasket job was done by ford under warranty last time I can only assume they were not retarded enough to re use the head gaskets but who the F knows!

[fordman60]

Originally Posted by Dogman

I had the same problem on my 04. I deleted the the egr cooler and stud the heads and was still blowing coolant out. Your going to have to pull the motor a part again.Two thing need to really look for are a crack in one of the piston cyl. walls mine was in the the driver side back cyl. below the top oil ring of the piston. Both the dealer and bill at powerstrokehelp missed it. Also did you have the heads fluxed and tested for cracks and a level deck? They head are know for cracks between the valves.

on dec 5 th i am booked in to a local diesel rebuild shop that specializes in power smokes. its gonna be expensive but im tired of screwin with it!!! ill let u guys know what they find

[Dogman]

Originally Posted by fordman60

dogman if the cylinder wall was cracked, wouldnt there be coolant entering the cylinder on down stroke, causing white smoke?

No, Mine did not show anything untill I was down to macon Ga and stopped for a break driving and shut the truck off and heared the degas cap go off.

Did a ford shop do the work last time? If so have this shop write down EVERYTHING they find wrong and get photos.

[egregg57]

Originally Posted by fordman60

it is now losing coolant with no load, just cruising down the highway at 70- 80 mph

bottle is good , with the sticker. havent overfilled it i am losing enough coolant when driving it hard to make the fenderwell wet and make a mess on the air filter housing

i have never had an egr or oil cooler failure.

since the head gasket job was done by ford under warranty last time I can only assume they were not retarded enough to re use the head gaskets but who the F knows!

Wow... That isn't good. Do you have a gauge set to see ECT/EOT (Engine Coolant Temp/Engine Oil Temp)? It sounds like an EGR Cooler. But other things can cause this too. Any white/sweet smelling exhaust? Is there any sign of oil in the coolant?

Just a few things to check. In any case a Scangauge, or Edge Insight to monitor vital temperatures and limits with the ability to read codes will save you big money down the road.

In the mean time I would get the codes pulled from the OBDII/PCM to see what is being shown for codes and head to a good shop or back to your dealership to have this looked at. You could get them read from a local Auto parts store or order a Scangauge on line for about 160.00. If the dealership fouled up the headgaskets its on them and any reputable place is going to correct the problem.

If you have a failed EGR cooler it is HIGHLY suggested that you change out the EGR AND Oil Cooler at the same time.

The average cost to do this is about $2500.00. If you are good with tools, you can do it yourself but you'll need time, tools, flushing chemicals, and patience. It would save you about 1500.00 or more.

I had mine done last November after returning from a cross country trip. I was towing a 9.5K travel trailer at the time and began losing coolant through the exhaust. Slowly at first.

About 200 miles after the first symptoms I had a catastrophic failure of the EGR Cooler caused by a partially plugged oil cooler. I stopped and shut down the truck immediately which saved the engine I am told. I knew it was the EGR Cooler immediately because of the clouds of billowing white smoke/steam from the exhaust.

What type of headgaskets were put in? I assume they would be OEM since Ford did the replacement.

There have been some rumblings over Black Onyx/Victor Rientz gaskets as of late.

I would have it at least looked at by the shop that did the original work, especially if there is some chance that they messed up and could correct the problem at a reduced or no cost to you.

Definately get her checked out ASAP.

Hope your appointment on the 5th is a good one.

Good luck!

Eric

[fordman60]

Hmmmmmm some interesting points to ponder guys!
I am planning to install guages and a pyro as soon as the guys at DSG get done working on my engine
I will let you guys know what the results are
Thanks for all your input!