read every cold start post, no success. PLEASE HELP! - F-Series & SuperDuty Diesel Forums

superdub01 · 12-02-2011, 03:15 PM

first, the problem: for the FIRST START of the day the truck will crank fine but will not fire, unless the block heater is plugged in for at least two hours. (regardless of the temperature. it was 60 degrees today) if i try to start it without being plugged in, even cycling the glow plugs multiple times, during cranking, it will fire a little, then die, then fire a little, then die. almost like a gas engine way out of timing. i have gotten lucky a few times and it eventually started, but ran extremely rough (like on 5 cylinders and no power) until i drove and applied 3/4 to full throttle. then it would spontaneously fire all cylinders and run great. for the rest of the day all startups are normal, power is normal, smoke is normal. it has wait to start light, oil pressure, and the tac moves while cranking.

truck has a new GPR and new glow plugs. oil level is fine, however i havent checked the HPOP level because i dont know how to. while the valve covers were off, i cycled the glow plugs and verified that they were all glowing and they all passed the resistance checks.

i'm totally stumped. thanks in advance fellas

Dogman · 12-02-2011, 03:32 PM

What oil do you have in it the summer stuff. 15/40. If it's really cold the oil will be to thick and the injectors wont fire the motor right untill it get warmed up. Also check your batt. amps. need to test them by them self. Could have a batt going bad.

egregg57 · 12-02-2011, 05:25 PM

Check your FICM voltage. You should have 48 volts. Low voltage will cause these symptoms.

Also IPR ensure the screen is not blocked or damaged.

HPOP low oil pressure / crank / no start condition is most commom after the engine has been heated up and is commonly caused by a failed STC fitting or dummy plugs.

Dogman is right about oil. I use 5w oil year round, Rotella T-6.

Do you have the ability to read codes?

RoyBoy · 12-02-2011, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by egregg57

Check your FICM voltage. You should have 48 volts. Low voltage will cause these symptoms.

Also IPR ensure the screen is not blocked or damaged.

HPOP low oil pressure / crank / no start condition is most commom after the engine has been heated up and is commonly caused by a failed STC fitting or dummy plugs.

Dogman is right about oil. I use 5w oil year round, Rotella T-6.

Do you have the ability to read codes?

Looks like we're talking about an '01 7.3L... not a 6.0L

Still sounds like batteries/ ground, etc. or glow plug system. Did you check your GP harnesses?
When you are trying to cold start does the exhaust blow white smoke (fuel)?

egregg57 · 12-03-2011, 10:19 PM

My apologies! Missed the 7.3!

JLDickmon · 12-04-2011, 11:32 AM

how did you ground the glow plugs when you did your valve cover off check?

superdub01 · 12-11-2011, 02:40 PM

i held each one against the head and verified that they glow red. did them one by one. i like the idea of going to 5w-30 syn. that kinda makes sense because with a few hours plugged in that may just be enough to warm, and essentially thin the oil enough to start. also because if i dont plug it in it cranks extremely slowly.

DaveBen · 12-11-2011, 05:35 PM

5w 30 is for gasoline engines. At least I have NOT seen or read about 5w 30 diesel oil. 5w 40 or 15w 40 is diesel oil.

Dave

iracemine · 12-11-2011, 07:18 PM

both batteries are dead. Try driving to a parts store and then getting them individually tested. Id bet they are just slowly dieing.

superdub01 · 12-12-2011, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveBen

5w 30 is for gasoline engines. At least I have NOT seen or read about 5w 30 diesel oil. 5w 40 or 15w 40 is diesel oil.

Dave

ya, your absolutely right. i just wasnt paying attention while i was typing. thanks though!

12-02-2011, 03:15 PM	#1
superdub01 SDD USMC/Wyotech Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: jacksonville nc Posts: 31 Thanks: 2 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post View Photos By: superdub01	read every cold start post, no success. PLEASE HELP! first, the problem: for the FIRST START of the day the truck will crank fine but will not fire, unless the block heater is plugged in for at least two hours. (regardless of the temperature. it was 60 degrees today) if i try to start it without being plugged in, even cycling the glow plugs multiple times, during cranking, it will fire a little, then die, then fire a little, then die. almost like a gas engine way out of timing. i have gotten lucky a few times and it eventually started, but ran extremely rough (like on 5 cylinders and no power) until i drove and applied 3/4 to full throttle. then it would spontaneously fire all cylinders and run great. for the rest of the day all startups are normal, power is normal, smoke is normal. it has wait to start light, oil pressure, and the tac moves while cranking. truck has a new GPR and new glow plugs. oil level is fine, however i havent checked the HPOP level because i dont know how to. while the valve covers were off, i cycled the glow plugs and verified that they were all glowing and they all passed the resistance checks. i'm totally stumped. thanks in advance fellas __________________ 2001 F-350 7.3L 4X4 LARIAT CREW CAB LONG BOX -8'' LIFT, 40 X 13.50R17 YOKOHAMA GEOLANDARS, 17" MAZZI RIMS-ROUSCH RAM AIR INTAKE, AND HOOD -4'' TURBO BACK EXHAUST -ANGEL EYES HALO HEADLIGHTS -DUAL SHOCK HOOPS W/BILSTIEN SHOCKS -SIRIUS SATELLITE RADIO -HELLA REVERSE LIGHTS -WARN MANUAL HUBS USMC OIF/OEF veteran. Cobra/Huey helo mechanic. WYOTECH student

12-02-2011, 03:32 PM	#2
Dogman Dogman Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: tampa,FL Posts: 1,336 Thanks: 2 Thanked 104 Times in 90 Posts	What oil do you have in it the summer stuff. 15/40. If it's really cold the oil will be to thick and the injectors wont fire the motor right untill it get warmed up. Also check your batt. amps. need to test them by them self. Could have a batt going bad. __________________ 2008 F-250 All stock so far...LOL 1999 Jeep TJ play toy on 32" tires custom bumpers by me Last edited by Dogman; 12-02-2011 at 03:35 PM.

12-02-2011, 05:25 PM	#3
egregg57 SDD Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Southeastern NH Posts: 45 Thanks: 2 Thanked 10 Times in 7 Posts View Photos By: egregg57	Check your FICM voltage. You should have 48 volts. Low voltage will cause these symptoms. Also IPR ensure the screen is not blocked or damaged. HPOP low oil pressure / crank / no start condition is most commom after the engine has been heated up and is commonly caused by a failed STC fitting or dummy plugs. Dogman is right about oil. I use 5w oil year round, Rotella T-6. Do you have the ability to read codes? __________________ 2005 F-350 Lariat FX4 CC, new EGR Cooler/Oil Cooler, EGR Valve, HPOP STC fitting, Fuel Pressure spring upgrade, Sirius/XM Mod, Edge Insight W/Attitude, new Thermostat, Pads, Rotors at 87K, Reese 16K Hitch. 2011 Outback 325FRE 4 slide Fifth Wheel 12K GVW. Last edited by egregg57; 12-02-2011 at 05:29 PM.

12-03-2011, 10:19 PM	#5
egregg57 SDD Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Southeastern NH Posts: 45 Thanks: 2 Thanked 10 Times in 7 Posts View Photos By: egregg57	My apologies! Missed the 7.3! __________________ 2005 F-350 Lariat FX4 CC, new EGR Cooler/Oil Cooler, EGR Valve, HPOP STC fitting, Fuel Pressure spring upgrade, Sirius/XM Mod, Edge Insight W/Attitude, new Thermostat, Pads, Rotors at 87K, Reese 16K Hitch. 2011 Outback 325FRE 4 slide Fifth Wheel 12K GVW.

12-04-2011, 11:32 AM	#6
JLDickmon ursus combibo Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: 49041 Posts: 3,796 Thanks: 37 Thanked 265 Times in 249 Posts View Photos By: JLDickmon	how did you ground the glow plugs when you did your valve cover off check? __________________ John '99 F250 7.3L auto 4wd CC/SB Last edited by JLDickmon; 12-04-2011 at 11:33 AM.

12-11-2011, 02:40 PM	#7
superdub01 SDD USMC/Wyotech Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: jacksonville nc Posts: 31 Thanks: 2 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post View Photos By: superdub01	i held each one against the head and verified that they glow red. did them one by one. i like the idea of going to 5w-30 syn. that kinda makes sense because with a few hours plugged in that may just be enough to warm, and essentially thin the oil enough to start. also because if i dont plug it in it cranks extremely slowly. __________________ 2001 F-350 7.3L 4X4 LARIAT CREW CAB LONG BOX -8'' LIFT, 40 X 13.50R17 YOKOHAMA GEOLANDARS, 17" MAZZI RIMS-ROUSCH RAM AIR INTAKE, AND HOOD -4'' TURBO BACK EXHAUST -ANGEL EYES HALO HEADLIGHTS -DUAL SHOCK HOOPS W/BILSTIEN SHOCKS -SIRIUS SATELLITE RADIO -HELLA REVERSE LIGHTS -WARN MANUAL HUBS USMC OIF/OEF veteran. Cobra/Huey helo mechanic. WYOTECH student

12-11-2011, 05:35 PM	#8
DaveBen SDD Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Ukiah, California Posts: 7,869 Thanks: 127 Thanked 506 Times in 489 Posts	5w 30 is for gasoline engines. At least I have NOT seen or read about 5w 30 diesel oil. 5w 40 or 15w 40 is diesel oil. Dave __________________ 2004 F-350 Regular cab with 6.0, Torqshift, 4X4, and just about all of the rest of the options. I added Guages, Satellite Radio, Air Horns, and a coolant filter. Bilstein shocks. Battery Desulphater that really works. Installed Jimmi Jammers. Pictures here: http://community.webshots.com/user/dbennett48 Completely Stock. I had a Detroit Diesel 8V92TA in a KW dump truck in 1980. That sucker would put out 425 hp but would never out pull a CAT.

12-11-2011, 07:18 PM	#9
iracemine black and tan Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Cheese Curtain Posts: 914 Thanks: 46 Thanked 44 Times in 40 Posts	both batteries are dead. Try driving to a parts store and then getting them individually tested. Id bet they are just slowly dieing. __________________ coolant filter (dieselsite), CCV Mod (home made), 4" MBRP turbo back (dieselsite), turbo temp monitor (ISSPROdieselsite), DIY triple gauge kit (ITPdeisel), "fuel filler mod" (home made), stock 7.3 99.5' 2WD W/ more power than I need. Be green... drink kegged beer! www.micromatic.com you'll thank me

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