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#1 |
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SDD Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: san marcos
Posts: 3
Thanks: 1
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I have a 1996 PSD that is leaking fuel. Looking at the engine from the front of the truck, on the right side of the fuel / seperator canister is a valve assembly. There are several fuel lines attached and there is what looks like a valve stem pointing toward the drivers side fender. That valve stem is spewing diesel fuel when the motor is running. After doing some research and finding some pictures of the assembly I see that there is usually a valve stem cap on the valve stem. I put one on and that stopped the leak. My question is, what is the valve assembly called and why did it start leaking? Did I have a cap on there that blew off? Is there supposed to be a valve stem inside of it? Any help would be appreciated. The leak seems to be stopped for now but I don't feel too comfortable about it.
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#2 |
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SDD Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Happy, TX
Posts: 391
Thanks: 2
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That's a regular schrader valve on your regulator -- it should have a valve stem in it.
I wouldn't trust the cap to hold the fuel in for long. I'm not sure if you could rig up something with an off-the-shelf valve or if you'd need to replace the whole regulator... Are you in TX? I've got an old regulator I could ship to you...
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Ben 1994 F-350 White Crew Cab 2wd - 300K miles & counting... DIY Air Intake, Adjustable 220-10K Mod, Shimmed FRP, custom laptop mount, EBPV Exhaust Brake, CARR hoop steps, EOT resistor mod Plantdrive two-tank WVO kit with hotfox, 26 plate FPHE, Vegmax filters, vegtherm 91 Gallon RDS Tank/Toolbox combo |
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#3 |
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SDD Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: san marcos
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Thanks bbressler!!! The valve stem was missing. I just happened to have a couple of new stems here so I installed one and it stopped the leak completely. Then I added one of those chrome valve stem caps with a 3/8 inch head that I could tighten with a wrench to make sure it doesn't happen again. Should I be happy with that or do I need to get a different valve stem that has a different rubber material for a seal?
Thanks Again! |
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#4 |
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SDD Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Happy, TX
Posts: 391
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I would think it would suffice like you've got it. Be sure to not overtighten the valve into the regulator, those regulators are easy to crack...
__________________
Ben 1994 F-350 White Crew Cab 2wd - 300K miles & counting... DIY Air Intake, Adjustable 220-10K Mod, Shimmed FRP, custom laptop mount, EBPV Exhaust Brake, CARR hoop steps, EOT resistor mod Plantdrive two-tank WVO kit with hotfox, 26 plate FPHE, Vegmax filters, vegtherm 91 Gallon RDS Tank/Toolbox combo |
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#5 |
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SDD Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: san marcos
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Thanks again. After I posted that last message I remembered that I got those valve stems from an AC repair kit so I would think they are better than regular tire stems. And yes I only used the wrench on the cap to make sure it was a little more than finger tight. I really appreciate your help. You saved me a trip to the shop and probably a ton of money.
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#6 | |
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SDD Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Ukiah, California
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2004 F-350 Regular cab with 6.0, Torqshift, 4X4, and just about all of the rest of the options. I added Guages, Satellite Radio, Air Horns, and a coolant filter. Bilstein shocks. Battery Desulphater that really works. Installed Jimmi Jammers. Pictures here: http://community.webshots.com/user/dbennett48 Completely Stock. I had a Detroit Diesel 8V92TA in a KW dump truck in 1980. That sucker would put out 425 hp but would never out pull a CAT. |
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#7 | |
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SDD Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: CenCal
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