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Old 02-02-2012, 05:48 PM   #51
Stroked68
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Random rough idle may be due to poor VC gaskets or UVC harnesses or UVC harness connections.
Would this cause it to run normal at higher rpm's? It goes 70mph no prob. Seems to have good power, isnt sluggish at all. Its just once that SES light goes off it will just die like someone shut the key off. It starts right up but idles like crap. Sounds like I got one hell of a cam in it. I had a new CPS in the glovebox so I installed that. Didnt help of course. The harness was gonna be one of my next checks but would that throw a code? You'd think it would throw a CEL or somethin. While its idling like crap, there are NO SES or CEL at all.
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:21 PM   #52
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Would this cause it to run normal at higher rpm's? It goes 70mph no prob. Seems to have good power, isnt sluggish at all. Its just once that SES light goes off it will just die like someone shut the key off. It starts right up but idles like crap. Sounds like I got one hell of a cam in it. I had a new CPS in the glovebox so I installed that. Didnt help of course. The harness was gonna be one of my next checks but would that throw a code? You'd think it would throw a CEL or somethin. While its idling like crap, there are NO SES or CEL at all.
well, not all codes cause a CEL..

my truck has a bad injector, and invariably it will have a contribution code, or a "wont switch low-high" code in it, but it never illuminates the CEL..
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Old 02-03-2012, 10:15 AM   #53
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well, not all codes cause a CEL..

my truck has a bad injector, and invariably it will have a contribution code, or a "wont switch low-high" code in it, but it never illuminates the CEL..
Thanks for the info! Hopefully I can get it scanned tonight.
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DIY Intake-MBRP 4" turbo back smokers kit with dual 6" Miter stacks-Autometer UltraLite Triple pillar gauge
KMC HPX SS Crossover Line-Shimmed FPR 74-75psi
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Bed liner on bottom 1/4 of truck-Fumoto drain valve
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Old 04-05-2012, 10:24 PM   #54
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Well JL you mentioned the ICP sensor earlier in this thread. I did some more researching and the ICP and IPR came up with my symptons. I went ahead and pulled the connector at the ICP and it had oil in it. Can I just leave it disconnected? Also i am hearing that the IPR can get stuck and gunked up. Are these easy to take apart and clean? Heard there is a screen in there?
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1999 Ford F250 Superduty 4x4 sb ext cab 7.3L

DIY Intake-MBRP 4" turbo back smokers kit with dual 6" Miter stacks-Autometer UltraLite Triple pillar gauge
KMC HPX SS Crossover Line-Shimmed FPR 74-75psi
AIH delete-ZooDad Mod-08 rear diff cover-Harpoon mod-Hutch mod-Recon LED smoked cab lights
Bed liner on bottom 1/4 of truck-Fumoto drain valve
275k and counting!
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:04 AM   #55
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IPR's are easy to clean but also easy to mess up if you grab them too firmly with pliers

the computer uses default table values when the ICP is disconnected it should be connected for better performance and economy.
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:02 PM   #56
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IPR's are easy to clean but also easy to mess up if you grab them too firmly with pliers

the computer uses default table values when the ICP is disconnected it should be connected for better performance and economy.
Have you cleaned yours before BJS?? Wheres the best place to get the ICP sensor? Mine is leaking badly. Is there a good aftermarket one or am I stuck buyin a stock ford or international one?
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1999 Ford F250 Superduty 4x4 sb ext cab 7.3L

DIY Intake-MBRP 4" turbo back smokers kit with dual 6" Miter stacks-Autometer UltraLite Triple pillar gauge
KMC HPX SS Crossover Line-Shimmed FPR 74-75psi
AIH delete-ZooDad Mod-08 rear diff cover-Harpoon mod-Hutch mod-Recon LED smoked cab lights
Bed liner on bottom 1/4 of truck-Fumoto drain valve
275k and counting!
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Old 04-10-2012, 07:23 PM   #57
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That are your best two sources. Aftermarket parts like the ICP sensor are iffy at best. Spend a few more $$ and get a real one.

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Old 04-10-2012, 09:53 PM   #58
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That are your best two sources. Aftermarket parts like the ICP sensor are iffy at best. Spend a few more $$ and get a real one.

Dave
Totally agree with ya dave. I hate spendin money twice. Is the ford one better or the international one better to have?
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1999 Ford F250 Superduty 4x4 sb ext cab 7.3L

DIY Intake-MBRP 4" turbo back smokers kit with dual 6" Miter stacks-Autometer UltraLite Triple pillar gauge
KMC HPX SS Crossover Line-Shimmed FPR 74-75psi
AIH delete-ZooDad Mod-08 rear diff cover-Harpoon mod-Hutch mod-Recon LED smoked cab lights
Bed liner on bottom 1/4 of truck-Fumoto drain valve
275k and counting!
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:25 AM   #59
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Totally agree with ya dave. I hate spendin money twice. Is the ford one better or the international one better to have?
the Ford one is an International one.
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Old 04-13-2012, 01:31 PM   #60
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Have you cleaned yours before BJS?? Wheres the best place to get the ICP sensor? Mine is leaking badly. Is there a good aftermarket one or am I stuck buyin a stock ford or international one?
yes I've cleaned 2 and right now I'm 1:1, I lucked out on my truck that the local wrecking yard had a PSD and only knew the engine was work money all together but not prices for the individual components so I bought a fuel pressure regulator for $10. and to my benefit the block was cracked when the truck was t-boned.

I honestly will say that if you want to clean it then do so with brake fluid and do not try to separate the internals just spray the brake cleaner in the IPR or soak it overnight in a can of carb cleaner.
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