Factory Brake Controller - F-Series & SuperDuty Diesel Forums

AK Rover · 05-10-2011, 02:06 PM

I have an 05 F-250 with the factory brake controller. I'm having issues with the controller recognizing my trailer and from what I've read this is common for the 05 models. The last time I towed the trailer last year I had no problems. The trailer sat all winter under my carport out of the snow and weather which is why I believe the problem lies in the truck. All my trailer lights work when I plug in the trailer but I have no brake control. I've checked all the connections on my trailer to make sure they're good and even replaced the plug on the trailer but it didn't change anything.

I'd really like to keep the clean looks of the controller in the dash rather than hanging off the bottom of the dash so my question is would replacing my controller with the controller out of an 06 or 07 make any difference? Would I be spending money for something that is going to give me the same problems down the road?

As always, thanks for the help and input.

Dogman · 05-10-2011, 03:20 PM

Take some fine sandpaper and clean the blades at the plug first.

powerboatr · 05-10-2011, 03:46 PM

ditto
and DOUBLE check the trailers GROUND connection, the TBC is sensitive to lack of ground. most trailer builders simple rivet a ground wire to a frame spot and it is an alum pop rivet and it corrodes and creates a loss of "signal" if so use a good steel bolt or stainless one a make a GOOD ground.
old days of using the ball as a ground dont work.

also if you pull the fuse under the dash for the tbc and the auto a/c and then re-install it, it sometimes helps. For some reason the auto climate and tbc will make the computer go squirrley and cause issues.

but the ground or loss of is the most common issue
and its usually on the trailer side. clean all connections and retry

AK Rover · 05-10-2011, 06:27 PM

I checked all the grounds on the trailer and everything is good and tight. All the grounds are done with torx head screws instead of pop rivets. The trailer uses torsion axle and the rear brakes are grounded to the top of the axle tube (if I find the genius that thought of that they're getting hurt). The one that was loose I moved to a more easily accessible position and reattached after hitting the area with a wire wheel. I even covered the area with dielectric grease before attaching the ground. This weekend I should have time to climb under the trailer again and redo the rest of the grounds.

RandyH · 05-10-2011, 10:56 PM

I'm still having a similar problem with my 5th wheel. It works okay sometimes and then stops working. Intermittant at best for quite some time. I was finally able to tow another trailer for a friend on a 500 mile round trip and it never missed a beat so I've definitely got to take a closer look at the trailer side this Spring. Besides not always having the brakes when you need them, the error tone going off constantly will drive you crazy on a long trip. Good luck!

powerboatr · 05-11-2011, 12:03 AM

i would check the truck side on the back of the 7 pin plug and make sure the inerds arent corroded, i just realized your in a snow belt
do all the trailer lights work?
there is also a main harness connector that branches the 7 and 4 connector off the main harness, doubtful but check that connector for crud, its just above and aft of the spare tire
the connector comes apart pretty easy
pack it with dielectric compound

the tbc system is pretty good in these trucks, my 06 had zero tbc issues.
except the weird auto a/c and tbc no workie thing.
sorry i cant be of more help

AK Rover · 05-11-2011, 08:28 AM

I don't have the auto climate control but I'm going to try and pull the fuse for the brake controller to see if that makes a difference. I really don't want to climb under the trailer again if not absolutely necessary. The truck is a little easier for me to climb under so I'll check all the connections on the truck first. Since the trailer had no problems last year and didn't leave the shelter of the carport all winter I'm inclined to believe the problem lies in the truck.

AK Rover · 05-11-2011, 09:58 PM

I just did a little more troubleshooting. When I put my voltmeter on the pin for the brake output at the rear bumper I get 12 volts when the energize switch is moved. I could be wrong but that would indicate to me that the brake controller is working properly. (It also tells me that my truck was built at the end of March 05 after they changed from the brake controller that only puts out 1-3 volts under 15 mph. Build date on the door sticker is 03/05.) I'm thinking it's time to turn my attention back to the trailer and the grounds as much as I don't want to climb under the trailer again.

powerboatr · 05-11-2011, 10:45 PM

the brake feed to get an accurate measure you need to measure amps

and if its sitting stopped and you slide the tbc to full on, you will get volts but like you said not very much, because the trucks thinks your stopped

keep us informed on what you find.....
could you go borrow a trailer and see if it follows the trailer....

AK Rover · 05-12-2011, 12:29 AM

Good idea. I have a friend nearby that has a couple trailers. I'm sure he'll let me plug in one of them to see if the truck recognizes it.

Any suggestions on how to measure the amperage going to the trailer? The meter has to be in series with the circuit to measure amperage but I can't quite figure out how to plug in the trailer and get my meter inline also.

05-10-2011, 02:06 PM	#1
AK Rover SDD Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Kenai, Alaska Posts: 194 Thanks: 4 Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts	Factory Brake Controller I have an 05 F-250 with the factory brake controller. I'm having issues with the controller recognizing my trailer and from what I've read this is common for the 05 models. The last time I towed the trailer last year I had no problems. The trailer sat all winter under my carport out of the snow and weather which is why I believe the problem lies in the truck. All my trailer lights work when I plug in the trailer but I have no brake control. I've checked all the connections on my trailer to make sure they're good and even replaced the plug on the trailer but it didn't change anything. I'd really like to keep the clean looks of the controller in the dash rather than hanging off the bottom of the dash so my question is would replacing my controller with the controller out of an 06 or 07 make any difference? Would I be spending money for something that is going to give me the same problems down the road? As always, thanks for the help and input. __________________ 2005 F250 Super Duty, crew cab, short box, 6.0L Powerstroke diesel. 99000 miles and counting. Mods: Cobra 29LXLE CB radio with Wilson 1000 antenna Alpine IXA-W407 Stereo w/Alpine rearview camera 4 Lightforce Striker 170HID lights 2 4" 24 watt LED lights below rear bumper 2 4" 18 watt LED lights at rear of running boards Recon Big Rig running lights

05-10-2011, 03:20 PM	#2
Dogman Dogman Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: tampa,FL Posts: 1,337 Thanks: 2 Thanked 104 Times in 90 Posts	Take some fine sandpaper and clean the blades at the plug first. __________________ 2008 F-250 All stock so far...LOL 1999 Jeep TJ play toy on 32" tires custom bumpers by me

05-10-2011, 03:46 PM	#3
powerboatr living well in Texas Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Northeast Texas Posts: 5,900 Thanks: 30 Thanked 49 Times in 48 Posts View Photos By: powerboatr	ditto and DOUBLE check the trailers GROUND connection, the TBC is sensitive to lack of ground. most trailer builders simple rivet a ground wire to a frame spot and it is an alum pop rivet and it corrodes and creates a loss of "signal" if so use a good steel bolt or stainless one a make a GOOD ground. old days of using the ball as a ground dont work. also if you pull the fuse under the dash for the tbc and the auto a/c and then re-install it, it sometimes helps. For some reason the auto climate and tbc will make the computer go squirrley and cause issues. but the ground or loss of is the most common issue and its usually on the trailer side. clean all connections and retry __________________ Driving the Short Bus, pulling a F150 Lifetime member of Disabled Veterans of America I will never apologize for being a Christian Life is Great Make someone , OFTEN, very Often

05-10-2011, 06:27 PM	#4
AK Rover SDD Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Kenai, Alaska Posts: 194 Thanks: 4 Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts	I checked all the grounds on the trailer and everything is good and tight. All the grounds are done with torx head screws instead of pop rivets. The trailer uses torsion axle and the rear brakes are grounded to the top of the axle tube (if I find the genius that thought of that they're getting hurt). The one that was loose I moved to a more easily accessible position and reattached after hitting the area with a wire wheel. I even covered the area with dielectric grease before attaching the ground. This weekend I should have time to climb under the trailer again and redo the rest of the grounds. __________________ 2005 F250 Super Duty, crew cab, short box, 6.0L Powerstroke diesel. 99000 miles and counting. Mods: Cobra 29LXLE CB radio with Wilson 1000 antenna Alpine IXA-W407 Stereo w/Alpine rearview camera 4 Lightforce Striker 170HID lights 2 4" 24 watt LED lights below rear bumper 2 4" 18 watt LED lights at rear of running boards Recon Big Rig running lights

05-10-2011, 10:56 PM	#5
RandyH SDD Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Western Colorado Posts: 197 Thanks: 2 Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts View Photos By: RandyH	I'm still having a similar problem with my 5th wheel. It works okay sometimes and then stops working. Intermittant at best for quite some time. I was finally able to tow another trailer for a friend on a 500 mile round trip and it never missed a beat so I've definitely got to take a closer look at the trailer side this Spring. Besides not always having the brakes when you need them, the error tone going off constantly will drive you crazy on a long trip. Good luck! __________________ '05 F350 FX4, 6.0L, Auto, CC, LB, 4 x 4, Line-X, 116K, Brand D cab lights, High Idle Mod, Fog Light High Beam Mod, Edge Insight Monitor w/Pillar, LT295/70-R18 Nitto Terra Grappler AT's & 2" level lift, coolant filter. (R.I.P - The Pine Tree Incident) 99' (early) F250, Auto, 4x4, CC, LWB. 139K, Yoko Geos, reman trans at 110K, Autometer pillar gauges, open element filter, 3" level lift, 6.0L trans cooler, Brand D cab lights. 01' KZ Sportsmen 35' Fifth Wheel Toyhauler (a.k.a "The Mother Ship") 05' Mustang GT USAF SSGT 1979-1983

05-11-2011, 12:03 AM	#6
powerboatr living well in Texas Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Northeast Texas Posts: 5,900 Thanks: 30 Thanked 49 Times in 48 Posts View Photos By: powerboatr	i would check the truck side on the back of the 7 pin plug and make sure the inerds arent corroded, i just realized your in a snow belt do all the trailer lights work? there is also a main harness connector that branches the 7 and 4 connector off the main harness, doubtful but check that connector for crud, its just above and aft of the spare tire the connector comes apart pretty easy pack it with dielectric compound the tbc system is pretty good in these trucks, my 06 had zero tbc issues. except the weird auto a/c and tbc no workie thing. sorry i cant be of more help __________________ Driving the Short Bus, pulling a F150 Lifetime member of Disabled Veterans of America I will never apologize for being a Christian Life is Great Make someone , OFTEN, very Often

05-11-2011, 08:28 AM	#7
AK Rover SDD Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Kenai, Alaska Posts: 194 Thanks: 4 Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts	I don't have the auto climate control but I'm going to try and pull the fuse for the brake controller to see if that makes a difference. I really don't want to climb under the trailer again if not absolutely necessary. The truck is a little easier for me to climb under so I'll check all the connections on the truck first. Since the trailer had no problems last year and didn't leave the shelter of the carport all winter I'm inclined to believe the problem lies in the truck. __________________ 2005 F250 Super Duty, crew cab, short box, 6.0L Powerstroke diesel. 99000 miles and counting. Mods: Cobra 29LXLE CB radio with Wilson 1000 antenna Alpine IXA-W407 Stereo w/Alpine rearview camera 4 Lightforce Striker 170HID lights 2 4" 24 watt LED lights below rear bumper 2 4" 18 watt LED lights at rear of running boards Recon Big Rig running lights

05-11-2011, 09:58 PM	#8
AK Rover SDD Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Kenai, Alaska Posts: 194 Thanks: 4 Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts	I just did a little more troubleshooting. When I put my voltmeter on the pin for the brake output at the rear bumper I get 12 volts when the energize switch is moved. I could be wrong but that would indicate to me that the brake controller is working properly. (It also tells me that my truck was built at the end of March 05 after they changed from the brake controller that only puts out 1-3 volts under 15 mph. Build date on the door sticker is 03/05.) I'm thinking it's time to turn my attention back to the trailer and the grounds as much as I don't want to climb under the trailer again. __________________ 2005 F250 Super Duty, crew cab, short box, 6.0L Powerstroke diesel. 99000 miles and counting. Mods: Cobra 29LXLE CB radio with Wilson 1000 antenna Alpine IXA-W407 Stereo w/Alpine rearview camera 4 Lightforce Striker 170HID lights 2 4" 24 watt LED lights below rear bumper 2 4" 18 watt LED lights at rear of running boards Recon Big Rig running lights

05-11-2011, 10:45 PM	#9
powerboatr living well in Texas Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Northeast Texas Posts: 5,900 Thanks: 30 Thanked 49 Times in 48 Posts View Photos By: powerboatr	the brake feed to get an accurate measure you need to measure amps and if its sitting stopped and you slide the tbc to full on, you will get volts but like you said not very much, because the trucks thinks your stopped keep us informed on what you find..... could you go borrow a trailer and see if it follows the trailer.... __________________ Driving the Short Bus, pulling a F150 Lifetime member of Disabled Veterans of America I will never apologize for being a Christian Life is Great Make someone , OFTEN, very Often

05-12-2011, 12:29 AM	#10
AK Rover SDD Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Kenai, Alaska Posts: 194 Thanks: 4 Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts	Good idea. I have a friend nearby that has a couple trailers. I'm sure he'll let me plug in one of them to see if the truck recognizes it. Any suggestions on how to measure the amperage going to the trailer? The meter has to be in series with the circuit to measure amperage but I can't quite figure out how to plug in the trailer and get my meter inline also. __________________ 2005 F250 Super Duty, crew cab, short box, 6.0L Powerstroke diesel. 99000 miles and counting. Mods: Cobra 29LXLE CB radio with Wilson 1000 antenna Alpine IXA-W407 Stereo w/Alpine rearview camera 4 Lightforce Striker 170HID lights 2 4" 24 watt LED lights below rear bumper 2 4" 18 watt LED lights at rear of running boards Recon Big Rig running lights

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode