IPR valve Rebuild

[KansasDiesel]

Has anyone rebuilt your IPR valve?

I am getting the o-ring rebuild kit tomarrow. I ran across this DIY write up and like opinions. http://cw-diesel.com/LuxSite/IPRInfo.htm

I have a BIG hesitation to using a pipe wrench on an expensive valve.

Anyone have a better way to do this?

 

[95_stroker]

That write up is a very good article. I know it looks scary clamping the IPR in a vise and twisting on it with a pipe wrench.

 

[Renegade]

Its tough getting the IPR body loose without scratching it so I use a finger out of a leather glove wrapped around it to help keep galling it up with the teeth of a pipe wrench or good wide channel locks.

Also dont crank on it with something with a narrow jawset as you dont want to crush the body in any way.

My best guess is 99% of em get replaced & are really just dirty cause it doesnt take much to gum one up on the inside.

Thru our model years & especially early on 94-up to mid 95 there was a lot of changes to the pump & IPR like the moving of the "edge" filter from the IPR to the hpop,check valve was moved & some small things like that that was supposed to help with some of this.

Just be sure you get the needle back in the right direction & you should have no problem

Cheers

 

[KansasDiesel]

Thanks, for the advice. I heard that most the time they just need resealed and are not really bad.

 

[Believer45]

I did mine without removing the valve body from the high pressure reservoir on my 1995 F250 extended cab. I did not remove the fuel filter housing, the hardest part was getting the blue hose back on the bottom of the housing once done.

The following is a quote from Coach Davis, poster on another site and the instructions I used when I did mine.

PART NUMBERS FOR IPR KIT

(Ford) F6TZ-9C977-AN
(International) 1825806C92

I've been having a slight problem with my truck not wanting to idle very smooth especially when hot and the more miles the oil gets on it, the worse it would idle. With the engine cold it would idle pretty smooth, but hot, it had somewhat of a shake to it. When I purchased this truck, the oil had been in a little too long on this ONE and only ONE oil change and because the HEUI system is so sensative to clean oil that I probably was going to have to change some of the components to remedy the idle/flutter problem.

I purchased a new IPR a few months ago and was trying to get enough miles on the oil before I changed it so I could ensure some of the characteristics that changed were not because of "NEW" oil. New oil will always make a Powerstroke run a little better than oil that has 3000 miles on it. I wanted to make sure I installed the IPR with the 3000 mile oil.

The Procedure:

I removed the plug on the top of the high pressure oil reservoir and took my tried and true turkey baster (equipped with a rubber fuel line and then steel brake line attached to the rubber fuel line so I could get through the small hole and go to the bottom of the reservoir to extract ALL the oil), and proceded to extract all the oil out of the reservoir which took some time, but ended up getting a full quart out of it. Draining this HP reservoir really saved a big time mess!!

Next I drained my fuel filter bowl and loosened the lid to ensure all the diesel would be able to drain, then removed my intake "Y", stuffed shop rags in the ports and proceeded to loosen all the hoses and wiring harness associated with the fuel filter housing/IPR. I then removed the two bolts holding the fuel filter housing on the engine and lifted the housing up and out of the valley of the engine.

I then removed the cheap nut holding the IPR solenoid on and slid the solenoid off. I then took a deep socket and slowly removed the IPR.

I then cleaned around where the IPR was with a lint free cloth to ensure the new o-ring wouldn't be damaged by dirt/trash upon seating. I then coated the NEW IPR o-rings etc. with new engine oil and replaced it back into it's respected provision. I then reinstalled the IPR solenoid and tightened the cheap nut ensuring I had the wiring harness connector turned in the correct direction.

I then took carburetor cleaner and sprayed the valley where a little diesel and a small amount of oil had spilled. I cleaned all the valley and then reinstalled everything previously removed.

I then took a small funnel and poured exactly 1 quart of new oil back into the HP oil reservoir and re-installed the plug.

After the engine turned over a few more times than usual it cranked. After warming the engine up, I then proceeded to the highway where I ran locked out of OD for about 5 miles at 3200 rpm's to eliminate all the air from the HP oil system.

After returning home I immediately noticed the idle was more stable and after putting 100 or so miles on since the change, I can definately tell a difference in the performance and idle characteristics of the engine. I used to have what I call a missing cylinder flutter sound and that has for the most part been eliminated so far. The truck also runs somewhat easier going down the highway and the cranking time which was actually normal before, is very very quick now, even on intial startup in the morning. I was surprised by this because the truck actually cranked normally with no long cranking time hot or cold. I'm also interested to see if fuel mileage will fluctuate some and I'll post when and if it does indeed increase.

I wanted to post this information for some of you that are experiencing some of the characteristics my truck has been having. I'm also going to replace the ICP when I find a good price on one, but I do my truck as I do my race car and change ONE thing at a time so I'll know what the part actually did and IF it actually changed anything. Then I can go to the next step and change something else.

Hope this information is beneficial to some of you and don't hesitate to post further discussion on the subject as well.

Take care,

Coach Davis

I have these saved in MS Word format along with a cut and paste of the thread I started when mine failed en route from Cincinnati, OH to Charlotte, NC a few years back. If you would like them sent as attachments send me an eMail with IPR O RINGS in the subject line and let me know what site you saw this on and what eMail address you would like me to use and I will reply with the two attachments.

Dave / Believer45

 

[KansasDiesel]

Believer, thanks for the info. What problems did it correct for you?

 

[Believer45]

Believer, thanks for the info. What problems did it correct for you?

No start when warm, started fine when cooled down. They failed on me en route from Cincinnati, OH to Charlotte, NC a few years ago. The first symptom was longer crank times for two times starting it, third time it would not start until I let it sit for 45 minutes to an hour if it was warmed up.

Dave / Believer45

 

[KansasDiesel]

No start when warm, started fine when cooled down. They failed on me en route from Cincinnati, OH to Charlotte, NC a few years ago. The first symptom was longer crank times for two times starting it, third time it would not start until I let it sit for 45 minutes to an hour if it was warmed up.

Dave / Believer45

Thanks, I have had hard starting times, and rough idle when it was colder out, all my glow plugs checked out alright, I was just wondering if my IPR was sticking. It appears to be better now since it is warm out, and I changed all my glow plugs anyway when I was in there installing my stage one's. I figured it wouldn't hurt rebuilding the IPR anyway, the kit was only around $35. Will be doing it maybe this weekend if it doesn't rain.