Modifying the Housing with Common Tools

TOOLS NEEDED
-small chisel or sharpened screwdriver
-masking tape
-7/8" crowsfoot wrench, or other tool to remove/install standpipe
-Dremel tool with cutoff disc (Method 1 only)
-Center punch or pointed punch and hammer (Method 2 only)
-Hand drill (Method 2 only)
-1/16" or so drill bit, with hex or quick change end (Method 2 only)
-Hex or quick change extension (Method 2 only)
-1/4" or smaller drill bit, long or with hex end for extension (Method 2 only)

While this could be done with the housing still in the vehicle, it will be much easier with it removed. If you think removing the housing is difficult, then you need the practice anyway. A few times and it R&R's real quick. Alot of repairs are easier with it out of the way, so getting the removal down is a handy skill. While it's out replace the clamped on fuel lines. My preference for Fuel Line is SAE 30R9 Fuel Injection hose. It has a barrier lining that resists all fuels and is rated for over 150 psi. It is also available at most parts stores.

Start by cleaning out the housing. Then remove the standpipe with a crowsfoot wrench or carefully with long pliers. It is left hand thread, so turn it clockwise to remove. Be very careful not to get any dirt or debris in the center opening where the standpipe goes. If you do be sure to clean it thouroughly, as that passage leads to the fuel pump, then the injectors.

Use some masking tape to cover any openings in the housing to prevent metal shavings from getting in them. This will make cleanup much easier.

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Now to remove that pesky rib

Modification Method 1, Using a Dremel tool with cuttoff wheel and chisel

Using a dremel tool and a cuttoff disc, I sliced most of the way through the rib (to about 1/16 inch from the side of the housing) . I made 3 notches, 1/4" apart. Then, I put my small wood chisel at the top, again about 1/16 inch out from the side of the housing. I tapped on it a few times, and out popped the section of rib, clean and simple. Repeat until all 3 sections are out. Test fit the heater to be sure you removed enough material.

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Modification Method 2, Using a Drill

This method is a little trickier, but works OK if you don't have a Dremel tool or other tools tool remove the rib.

First, mark the location you are going to drill, preferably with a spring loaded center punch, as seen below. You won't need to drill all the way to the edge of the housing, so instead of marking the center of the rib, move a little away from the housing wall. You won't be able to drill straight down anyway, so this will help keep you from creating a thin spot in the housing.

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Now you are ready to drill the pilot hole. With the 1/16" or so bit in the extension, you should be able to drill a hole pretty much straight down (see below). Wrap masking tape about 3/4" up the bit to mark where you should stop drilling. If you drill of to one side of the rib, it's going to make it harder to remove the remaining metal after the second drilling. If you drill out thru the side of the housing, get out your checkbook. Ford only sells it as a very expensive assembly. While it may be able to be repaired with epoxy or alumaweld braze, let's not find out.

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With the pilot hole drilled, the larger, 1/4" or slightly smaller bit is used to follow the pilot hole and make the hole larger. If the bit is long enough, use it alone, otherwise use the extension. The bit doesn't have to be as big or bigger than the rib. Using a slightly smaller bit leaves a shell of the rib that helps keep the bit from walking off to the side. This shell is easily broken away later. Below is the widened hole, ready for finishing.

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You can use a small chisel or sharpened screwdriver to remove the remaining metal around the hole. Gently tap or scrape down the sides, then use a twisting motion to clean up the bottom. Once you are satisfied, vacuum or wipe out the debris. It would be good at this point to test fit the new fuel heater to be sure there is clearance all around and below it.

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Installing the New Heater

Once everything is to your satisfaction and all visible chips are cleaned out, you can remove the masking tape and do a final cleaning of the housing. Then connect the heater wire to the through bowl terminal, set the heater in place and install the standpipe. Use a screwdriver or something to hold the heater from turning as shown below. Now tighten the standpipe counterclockwise until very snug. Do not overtighten, as it is only plastic, but you want it tight enough to hold the heater securely.

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And below we see the finished install. Plenty of clearance for the connector and element, and plenty of length for the wire to run well below not touching anywhere. A pretty simple way to make the fuel heater more reliable than stock. Time for a cold one!

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