Stroked68
This is FORD Country
Well I experience my first truck break down since I've bought my truck a yr ago. It started up just fine this mornin as usual. Get to work which is 7miles away. It sat there till about 2pm when we were goin to lunch. Opened the door and noticed no lights were on. Put the key in the ignition and no annoying chime! Glad the chime was gone but meant it had no juice in the batteries haha. Batteries were totally dead. Took one battery out and put it on the charger while we were at lunch. Got back and put the other battery on the charger. After work put the batteries back in and cleaned all the batt connections. Truck fired right up. Checked alt and was putting out just fine. Went to my chiropractic appointment. Took them 15min to finally see me. About 20min later I get out to my truck, batts dead all the way again! Call my brother and he brings jumper cables. While we were checkin everything I noticed a sensor in line with the gpr's on the turbo pipe. Its got a large ground wire goin from it to a ground on the driver side head. And another wire from sensor to one of the gpr's. The sensor base was glowing red. So found the prob, gprs are stuck drawing juice. So looks like new relay. There are two relays, does one of those stancor relays replace both or do I still need two stancors to replace both stock relays?? What is this sensor on the turbo tube? Its only got one place where the wires go, held on with a nut.
. Well that sensor I was talkin about is actually the AIH. Guess I will have to do that mod unless you guys think I need it? I do live in ks and it does get really cold. Coldest we had so far was -9. Thats what was glowin red. I also said before I have two relays (solenoids). They look the same but you only replace one. Whats the other one then?
. I've been tryin to find info on if I can remove the WHOLE relay out of my system since I will be doin the AIH delete anyways. I assume if I take it all the way out I will have some dummy lights comin on? And I see riff raff sells a plug that has threads on the inside so you can hook yer boost gauge up to? Is this a more accurate place than splicing into my map sensor??
is that it will still throw a soft code. It might even throw a CEL code if I totally remove the solenoid. I found a resistor mod you do to fool the computer. You connect it to the blue wire that you hooked back up to the solenoid for those of you who didnt have a stuck solenoid ( which I had). You go from the blue wire and install the resistor (470 ohm/2watt) then hook the other end to ground from what I've read. 