i held each one against the head and verified that they glow red. did them one by one. i like the idea of going to 5w-30 syn. that kinda makes sense because with a few hours plugged in that may just be enough to warm, and essentially thin the oil enough to start. also because if i dont plug it...
first, the problem: for the FIRST START of the day the truck will crank fine but will not fire, unless the block heater is plugged in for at least two hours. (regardless of the temperature. it was 60 degrees today) if i try to start it without being plugged in, even cycling the glow plugs...
hey sorry for the super late response, but i havent been on here in a while. so i found the problem, and it turns out the slip yoke splines on my rear driveshaft were worn out. they had too much play in them and when they were loaded, they actually locked together. so naturally as the rear axle...
thanks guys. i have had them load tested. good batteries. some idiot owned the truck before me and did a hack job of putting in a remote start so im going to pull that in the morning.
im traveling from st louis to north carolina and my alternator took a dump on me. pulled over and changed it. an hour later the second one did same thing. the alternators test fine at the store. pulled both new batteries and charged them both times we changed the alternator. iv disconnected my...
im sorry, dont mean to sound like a jerk and keep saying no thats not it, but this is like at 20 mph and under. it is not caused by something out of balance, because it isnt spinning very fast at that speed. more like something worn out. it happens at a dead crawl. UNDER LOAD. like on a hill...
nope again. leaves and hangers are good. even removed them and checked the bushings. i am thinking maybe a tailshaft housing/ bearing, but not getting any leakage or play by hand.
i totally agree with what you are saying. however maybe you misunderstand what i mean by vibration. this is not a dynamic vibration that would be caused by a driveshaft or balancer. it is also not proportionate to engine speed, only wheel speed. and it is not a vibration, more like a very...
ok so i have a terrible vibration (if you can call it that. more like intense drivetrain shaking) that started a few months ago and has gotten to the point where something is going to give if i drive it. on acceleration from a stop, or any slow speed the entire engine transmission and transfer...
if none of that fixes the problem jack the truck up by the frame (unload the front suspension) and try to get play out of the front leaf spring bushings. they will deflect some because they are rubber but should not "clunk." this can cause your problem because the weight of the truck will...
there is a nylon washer on some fittings, and a rubber O-ring on others. depends on your pressure and return lines. all lines will still rotate even when the fitting is tight, so dont confuse that with a loose line. they are engineered that way to compensate for body flex and vibration. your...
i hope when you're saying you get no ohms you know that the more ohms (a measure of electrical resistance in a circuit) the worse the problem. any circuit consumers like a resistor, or a motor should have resistance, but in a perfect circuit there should be no resistance at all. Resistance can...
starting fluid
i have heard multiple times that you do not want to use starting fluid on diesel engines. i think the reason for this is the fluid has a lower flash point (it explodes sooner) than diesel fuel. the problem with this is that diesels have such high compression the fluid will...