Question Converting a Calif to Federal? (fuel damper delete)

A friend who has a '97 F250 Super Cab California truck has a fuel leak by his banjo bolt. Unfortunately his fuel damper is in the way and there is no way to tighten the banjo bolt unless the turbo pedestal is removed. Then he saw my truck, a Federal which makes getting to the banjo bolt a whole lot easier as is a fuel pump R&R easier. He wants to know how he can delete his fuel damper and convert his California to a Federal so a fuel pump R&R in the future can be done very easily...meaning to not have to remove the turbo. I mentioned to him that the California trucks have different injectors. Other than the fuel damper and different injectors what else is different? Is this project doable? And if doable what's involved? This is a stock California fuel setup and he wants a stock Federal fuel setup.

I'm not sure what would happen if the fuel dampener is removed. The pulsations may cause problems for the splitshots (they wouldn't have put it on there for nothing). Other than changing the PCM, injectors, and getting rid of the dampener, I think the only alternative would be to convert to an electric fuel setup. Cheers!

I forgot about Dieselsite's CPR system. That would certainly solve his problem and a whole lot less money than changing injectors, changing the pedestal and changing his PCM. If he does go this route (like Tx_atty just did) I will be envious all over again.

No need to change the pedestal. I think the pump is the same, but banjo bolt and fuel linefrom the pump to heads would be different. If it were me (and I may be in the same boat someday with my 1997), I would probably go with a CPR or Bean's system (both are fairly pricey though). Cheers!

id go with beans fuel system before i would dieselsites.the one from dieselsite looks like a hacked mess of parts just thrown together.

not sure what would happen if the damper is removed though.

I've had my CPR on for a few days now and like it so far. Seems smoother and quieter at moderate speed. Not noticeably quieter at highway speed but then that's not why I bought it. I'll be putting about 1200 miles on it over spring break and will be watching mileage to see what it has done there. Having gone through the whole package, I don't see it as a hacked mess. It all has its logic.

well see im very picky about how things look.especially when bolted into a vehicle.where does that gawky fuel filter go?under the hood so it sticks out like a sore thumb?back to an 80s 6.2 setup?open the hood of my truck and the only thing you see that screams "ive been tweaked!"are my intercooler pipes,open intake and fuel pressure regulator.you dont see any of my gauge wiring or anything else thats not factory,you dont even see the 2nd tranny cooler with the fan on it or the wiring for the fan.i like things to look like they belong there if it has to be visible.if it doesnt have to be visible you wont see it unless i want you to see it.

incase my post is taken the wrong way.i have had no bad dealings with dieselsite.i bought my transmission from bob.somehow i ended up with somebodie elses 4r100 and he was getting my e4od .wasnt funny then though.but bob had an e4od at my door in 2 days.im not saying his stuff isnt quality stuff.i just dont like the way it looks.

remember that goofy lookin accumulator setup thing the guys were running on the 94-95s to run the humped HPOP?looked stupid.all it took to do away with that mess was me,96 hpop reservoir,a dremel,a couple drill bits and a self tapping screw.i couldve swapped timing covers when i went from a 97 motor back to a 95 motor.but i saw it as a chance to fix a problem for the 94-95 guys.only took a couple days of lookin at 2 motors and an hour or 2 of work to modify the 95 timing cover

I agree with the appearance concerns. The way Bob's system is set up, the stock filter bowl under the hood is gone and a new regulator with a gauge is in place on top of the hpop. That and a few lines are the only things new (save the inertia switch but it's small) under the hood. The pre-pump filter and a return line fuel cooler are connected to each other and bolted to the frame behind the transfer case. The pump is on the frame just in front of the filter assembly and, for the most part, it is all invisible until you get down on your knee and look. I did not use the filter in Bob's kit but kept my Racor. The racor is taller so I have more filter body sticking down than would be if you kept the dahl. I'll try to remember to post a couple of new pictures next week of the whole system so you get a better idea of the finished product. I need to degrease the engine again after a couple of months worth of leaking fuel.

The only thing I am going to do is try to wrap all my electric wires in a loom. I also added a 2nd fuse panel so there is yet another wire from the cab to the battery. I think I can get most of the various wires covered and make it less unsightly under the hood.

im the same way about rattles.have a rattle you cant find?come take me for a ride,i gaurantee i will find rattles that you cant hear.