Overheat condition

tankerdude

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Hey guys!

Some time back I installed the EDAS system being sold by Powerstrokehelp.com.

If you don't know what that is, it's basically a pressure monitor for the cooling system that has an audible alarm if the system rises above 16 psi for more than a few minutes.

When that was installed, I also did a coolant flush. LOTS of fill/drain cycles, each time driving a short distance to make sure the entire system was getting flushed. Also installed a new thermostat at the same time.

AND, just a few weeks ago, I got the Ford parts installed for the high idle mod.

Just last week, I added the RevX stuff to the oil. I was skeptical at first, but thought it would be worth a try. I must say, it has helped the medium/severe miss that was occurring at a cold start-up.

Since then, the high idle mod has worked great on the cold mornings around here. We're talking between 2 and 3 in the morning.

Anywho, this morning it wasn't quite as cold as usual... I'd say around 40. Went out and started the truck. Fired up in what has now become a "normal" fashion. After a few minutes at it's normal idle, I flipped Aux 4 switch and the idle jumped up to 1150 or so.

I got detained in the house for 20 minutes or so, while the truck sat there running at this high idle for the duration.

When I came out and opened the door, I could hear the EDAS system speaking to me. Over pressure has occurred, but the engine temp gauge was just barely above where it is normally.

Popped the hood, and had a look at the degas bottle. It was just a little below where it should be.

I let the pressure off slowly, and poured in maybe 3 cups of distilled water.

I've got the Ford "fix" sticker installed on the bottle, and am running the Premium Gold that Ford recommends.

No odd stuff that I've noticed coming from the exhaust pipe.


Here's the question: Is this thing fixin' to puke it's guts out?
 

egregg57

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Knowing the temperature would help. Cavitating water pump, insufficient flow in the coolant system, stuck closed thermostat could allow coolant in an area of the engine which is getting hot, to vaporize, pressurizing the degass bottle. I am stabbing in the dark though. Did you notice if your fan clutch had kicked into high RPM during the high idle?

Eric
 

egregg57

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An almost indispensable tool is a scan guage, Edge Insight, or like item to monitor the critical temps and pressures of your engine. It can be 150.00 to 300.00 or more depending on what you get, but knowing what codes (if any) are being thrown, and monitoring ECT, EOT, Boost, Load, EGT after Turbo, the list goes on. Nothing is going to sneak up on ya!

Any other symptoms other than the one you mentioned?
 

tankerdude

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Knowing the temperature would help. Cavitating water pump, insufficient flow in the coolant system, stuck closed thermostat could allow coolant in an area of the engine which is getting hot, to vaporize, pressurizing the degass bottle. I am stabbing in the dark though. Did you notice if your fan clutch had kicked into high RPM during the high idle?

Eric

Actually, I don't remember hearing the fan (I have in the past, while towing, so I do know what it sounds like) when I went out. I suppose there's a slight chance I caught it while the fan was off.
 

tankerdude

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An almost indispensable tool is a scan guage, Edge Insight, or like item to monitor the critical temps and pressures of your engine. It can be 150.00 to 300.00 or more depending on what you get, but knowing what codes (if any) are being thrown, and monitoring ECT, EOT, Boost, Load, EGT after Turbo, the list goes on. Nothing is going to sneak up on ya!

Any other symptoms other than the one you mentioned?

Nope. Just what I've already mentioned. I don't drive it hard, even when towing that 18k lb beast of a 5'er we have.

I've thought about a scan gauge, but just haven't done it. While I think a bunch of gauges would be cool, it also costs money. And the grab handle on the drivers side is staying right where it is. I'm 6'6" and 280 lbs. Since that truck sits up a little higher, I needs my hannels!
 
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egregg57

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Nope. Just what I've already mentioned. I don't drive it hard, even when towing that 18k lb beast of a 5'er we have.

I've thought about a scan gauge, but just haven't done it. While I think a bunch of gauges would be cool, it also costs money. And the grab handle on the drivers side is staying right where it is. I'm 6'6" and 280 lbs. Since that truck sits up a little higher, I needs my hannels!

I understand fully! You're describing me! I tow a 12K GVW 5VR myself. She is packed away for the winter but I am ready to go now! Anyway...I digress!

I bought an Edge Insight Juice With Attitude from a camping friend. He upgrades to a Color touch Screen Edge. I do not use the settings (Mileage/Tow/Drive/Race/Extreme) because this model of Edge has been associated with causing damage to the Torqueshift Transmission. That is because (If I have this right) the Edge, when in these settings circumvents the TCM (Transmision Control Module) and does not allow the TCM to "learn" driving patterns and adjust.

There is a 6th setting which is 0 or "Stock". The Edge is now passive and only reads popped codes and monitors the parameters I choose. that all being said. The unit is mounted above the right driverside vent. The communication cable runs into the vent, under the dash and through a port in the Fire wall. The business end of the Edge is then connected to the PCM connectors in the engine compartment. I also have the EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature Probe) that is attached to the exhaust after the turbo.

So no gauges in the way, stuff to bump into etc. It warns me when some thing is to hot, high, etc... So far it has saved me a bunch of money in showing codes that would not have caused a CEL (Check Engine Light) and has allowed me to troubleshoot my low temperature readings I have seen for my coolant.

Scangauge can be mounted the same way. Or of course you could go with a peanut gauge package that straps to your A column. But we already know your not a fan of that!

You could also, just for the heck of it, go to Autozone or another Autoparts store that can read codes for you for free. Get any codes that may have popped. It would be interesting to find out if you have any related to the cooling sytem or electric clutch fan. There is an extensive list of them and that would certainly let you know of any issues monitored by the computer.

Scanguage is about $150-160.00.

I highly recommend one to keep an eye on those things that can getcha!

Eric
 

BIG JOE

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I'm just throwing this out for Whatever's.. so be gentle ? ;):)

A non-PCM controlled High Idle shouldn't be used for a Warm Up.

Reasons being: the PCM, Cold Start functions work together. When we Force (so to speak) a High Idle.. against what the PCM is attempting to do.. in sequence... All kinds of things can be negatively affected.

I post this because.. In my recent search for the Perfect Chip, one of the Tunes I wanted was a 1100 rpm High Idle. In most all the conversations I had, with the Makers.. they recommended.. a Chip/Tuner controlled high idle NOT be used for warm ups.

Better A/C in traffic ? Jump Starts ? PTO ops.. Yes. Faster Warm Ups.. No.

:coffee
 

tankerdude

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... You could also, just for the heck of it, go to Autozone or another Autoparts store that can read codes for you for free. Get any codes that may have popped. It would be interesting to find out if you have any related to the cooling sytem or electric clutch fan. There is an extensive list of them and that would certainly let you know of any issues monitored by the computer.....

I think I'll pay a visit to the parts store I use.... I be they can at least read the codes for me, then I'll come back here and see what they mean!

Thanks for the info, Eric!
 

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