2001 7.3 no start!

BIG JOE

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Dave,or Joe. You think this might be a CPS on his 7.3? They do crazy things and he did wash the engine down.
Doug

Yep... 500 HPOP psi while cranking.... on a 7.3 to pop the injectors

FINKSTR.... In the PDB.. check the IDM relay ?? they get weak.. but don't set a code at times. Check the pins for corrosion ?

Fuel psi needs to be 45/50 minimum.

Unplug the fuel heater at the filter housing. check it's fuse (# 24 on my 2K).. give it a go ?

Joe
 

FINKSTR

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AH! Now I understand. I'll check it out.
As I mentioned earlier, I did do a serious cleaning of the engine and underbody before I tore into it. And yes, I did wash the engine with a de-greaser but I was careful to protect the electronics. That said, it's difficult to avoid getting some water in which might have led to corrosion on some of the relay pins.
Thanks.
P.S. Since the above entry, I replaced the IDM relay and cleaned several connectors with some electronic spray cleaner. Still no luck. However, just for fun I emptied the fuel filter bowl, removed the filter and turned the ignition to the "on" position. The bowl began to fill but not nearly as fast as I expected. Is that normal? Now I'm beginning to wonder if I have sufficient fuel pressure. I want to add a fuel pressure gauge and would appreciate a recommendation. I prefer a mechanical, oil-filled gauge mounted in the engine compartment. I've looked at several on-line brands but am at a loss as to which way to go. Also, I need some advice on where to connect it ans what fittings etc I will need. As always, I appreciate your input.
 
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RSG

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I couldn't remember where...but finally...Guzzle's O'ring pages. He has great instructions and I used his rebuild kit on my '02 fuel bowl a few years ago. Here is a link to an adapter for the back side plugs and I think it gives you the sizes. (I have a pressure sensor in that spot now, although I will have to look in the daylight to see how I did it)

edit: on looking at the setup I did, i used the straight adapter. Same as #13-001 here.
 
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wrhjr3

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I've been following this thread with interest, but it ended a week ago.. Is your truck still down?
 

FINKSTR

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Yep...still down. The good thing for me is that I don't need to rely on this truck as my daily driver! That said, I really miss my truck!!! I'm trying to resist having it hauled in just to pay someone to stand around and scratch his - or her - head. I'm really good at doing that myself! Besides, like most of you I like to tinker with this stuff. Since I wasn't getting anywhere, I broke down and bought an Autoenginunity scan system with the Ford bundle. Now I'm trying to figure out how to use it. I'm not as computer-savvy as I need to be but I'm learning. I have spoken to several mechanics familiar with the 7.3 and most agree that the problem is fuel related. I really need to find someone local who understands how to operate the scan tool to know for sure. However, one question that is often asked concerns the Banks chip that came with the Powerpack system. I have tried starting it both with and without it installed - still no luck. However, when the problem is solved, I would like to ask a few questions... What exactly is that Banks chip supposed to do? I have asked Banks and still not received an answer. The other question I have is can I remove the Banks chip and install a non-Banks tuner like Bully Dog? If so would it be compatible with the other Banks components that came with the Powerpack System? As always, thanks in advance for your help!!!
 

DaveBen

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I find using the Autoenginuity scanner not to be difficult at all. You can run the program just before you plug it in. Plug it in and try to start the truck and is should scan for the DTC numbers. I am sure I am missing several steps as I am not looking at my Autoenginuity program right now. My AE is on another computer. After you get the codes from the truck, just have AE delete the codes. Go ahead and poke around the program. You will not screw it up. I see you live in Michigan, so make sure your batteries are good by having them tested, individually, using a load tester. Most auto parts stores can do this for you. Bad batteries are the number 1 problem for no starts in cold weather. After that the glow plug relay going bad is number 2. Have fun...

Dave :thumbs
 

DaveBen

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And I should add that battery cables go with the bad batteries, so check the cables on both ends for corrosion; GROUND TOO!

Dave
 

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