4R100 NoForward engagement

Ozarkfloater

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Hi All. New here, and glad to be here in good hands.
2000 F350 2WD Dually, 7.3 (4R100)
Larg Stater.JPG
Can anyone tell me how a 4R100 would act like when this “Coast Clutch Seal Ring” is damaged like this one of mine is?
Mine has no forward engagement. But I don't know if this is the complete problem for no Forward motion.
Its surly a leaker I created when putting all together the other day. This is the Stater Shaft end that seats in the
Coast Clutch housing.
This is my second time out of the truck.
#1 was me changing All Sealing Rings, Frictions, Bearings, Bushings, Accumulator,
and general overhaul things inside. Plus Bought a Tugger Kit which has great Upgraded parts & Fixes.

#2 Now she has Reverse motion, only. No Forward and no change in idle as shifted into a forward position.
My original Problem was burnt Direct Clutches.
 
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Ozarkfloater

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Thank you TS. Ill check that situation First thing morning.
As I explained, I have had this booger apart
the other day. They give you those bolts when you buy frictions in a box. I would hate to think of me putting off
Torqueing those Feed bolts and possibly passing that process up on accident.
I have nightmares on overdoing them and pulling threads from the Center support.

I took today off of the tear down to Help my daughters Jeep Woes.
So now I have replaced this damaged Sealing Ring with one I somehow had laying around. And that is
my extent of the investigation/Repair so far.
Thanks again
Tom
 

trackspeeder

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Feed bolts are a one time use bolt. They must be tossed during a rebuild. If there is a lot of wear on the center support it will continue to move even with new feed bolts torqued to spec. You can see this when looking at the center support lugs. The fix is to machine the center support and install a support ring from Sonnax. For extreme builds both faces of the support are machined. Then a support ring is installed on both sides of the center support. other fixes for those feed bolts Sonnax makes a shim kit.

Front feed bolt (OD) 6-10 foot pounds. Rear feed bolts 6-12 foot pounds.
 

Ozarkfloater

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Yes I Did use the new Feed Bolts but I didn't know about these "Support Rings"
That is interesting to learn. Sonnax really saves the day on many issues that become problematic
in these transmissions. And so is the Transgo people. I bought a "Tugger Kit" for this unit.
Im disappointed because I cannot get back on the teardown till Monday due to family obligations.
So I'll learn more then.
Thank you Much
 

Ozarkfloater

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Sorry TS. I had an emergency run to Kansas City and didn't respond like I should. I appreciate
all input I get Due to the fact that im not a Transmission man.
This Transgo "Tugger kit" gives me an exact size drill bit to drill my Separator plate (only If
my plate compares to a certain type.)
Other then that I keep in mind on exact size holes (Like they want two in the cast of a valve in the Upper VB.)
Ill have to see what size when I get back home.
These holes might be a little forgiving.
Thank you
 

trackspeeder

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You should have a couple of drill bits in your kit. Stick to the small sizes first. There are two holes drilled in the accumulator body. You only drill those hole if there is no slot in that location. ;tu
 

Ozarkfloater

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Yes. Mine needs those holes drilled in the Accumulator.
Im just now getting back to this project.
First business is the those holes & calibration Plate;
This is a 7.3 Diesel and my bigger bit they gave me is .110
about at the "Low End" of their hole size range needed for 2nd.
on the plate
smaller for 3rd & 4th
Ill do like you say and
drill all 3 at the suggested (low end) of range they give me,
They even say that if Im not satisfied with firmness ,,,

,,,, just go back in and make em bigger.
 

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