HPOP questions

fordman60

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My early '99 has 350k miles on it and it has always been VERY reliable. I've never had to do anything major to it, but I did replace the injectors (Swamps split shots) about 3 years ago.....not out of necessity, but by choice.

Over the last year or so, the cranking time has become extended (sometimes taking more than 5 seconds until it fires up), and that's beginning to take a toll on my batteries that are less than 2 years old.

Once it starts, I have no other issues. The extended crank time seems to be the only problem and symptom.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't there a check valve in the HPOP that supposed to keep the oil in the reservoir? If so, could that be my issue?

I'd really like to troubleshoot and repair this myself. Now that hunting season is here, I can't really do without my truck. Plus the only guy that I have ever trusted to work on my stuff moved out of state a few years ago.
Id say the IPR is the most likely culprit but without having any monitoring system on the truck its hard to say. You need to know what your Injection Control pressure (ICP) is when cranking
 

RSG

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This is a bit different...but when I changed out the original OEM starter at about 200k on my 2001, I switched to a faster turning starter. What a difference that made. I had been experiencing steadily longer crank times over the 15 years I had the truck, and while the faster starter didn't really fix anything, it did get the old 7.3 started in a hurry.
 

tony tnt

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My early '99 has 350k miles on it and it has always been VERY reliable. I've never had to do anything major to it, but I did replace the injectors (Swamps split shots) about 3 years ago.....not out of necessity, but by choice.

Over the last year or so, the cranking time has become extended (sometimes taking more than 5 seconds until it fires up), and that's beginning to take a toll on my batteries that are less than 2 years old.

Once it starts, I have no other issues. The extended crank time seems to be the only problem and symptom.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't there a check valve in the HPOP that supposed to keep the oil in the reservoir? If so, could that be my issue?

I'd really like to troubleshoot and repair this myself. Now that hunting season is here, I can't really do without my truck. Plus the only guy that I have ever trusted to work on my stuff moved out of state a few years ago.
 

tony tnt

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I have 2000 7.3 had a similar problem it was glow plugs I would plug in block heater for an hour then it would fire right up, it could be clogged fuel/water separator also, mine clogged from pieces of plastic off of fuel pick up in bottom of fuel tank sucked into electric fuel pump, it would run once it started, I found problem by touching electric fuel pump by accident it was very hot 235 degrees, man anything but the hpop
 

uloadit

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7.3 TUNE UP!! Change out your ICP and your IPR and your crank shaft position sensor .I fell this is like a tune up for powerstroke 7.3. I just did my 7.3 and starts up on a tap and sounds little quieter and smother
 

JLDickmon

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I checked it and it was nearly full........maybe a half inch (definitely less than 1") from the top. Would it not being COMPLETELY full be an issue? "SHOULD" it be COMPLETELY full?

Thanks for the response.
Nope. 1/2" from the top is right where they run.
 

JLDickmon

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7.3 TUNE UP!! Change out your ICP and your IPR and your crank shaft position sensor .I fell this is like a tune up for powerstroke 7.3. I just did my 7.3 and starts up on a tap and sounds little quieter and smother
What we used to do.. is shim the spring in the regulator to yield about 75 psi fuel pressure. Any less, they ran squirrely. Any more didn't seem to make a difference. The common method was to put a BB under the spring. Some guys said that yielded too much pressure. I can't remember who it was, and the thread is likely 15 years old now, but someone came up with a small machine screw and nut that he ground the hex off of to make an adjustable thingamabob.
 

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