How are the 6.7's

Tsuperduty said:

We have a 2016 F-350 SRW LB with 110K on it. We pull a 15K 5th wheel 3-4K a year plus other car trailers as well. We have not had any significant issues. This is our second 6.7 and we have been totally satisfied with both of them. We have serviced it every 5K, installed a 65 gallon Titan chassis fuel tank, a side step and a roll-trak bed cover. Highly recommend them.

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What kind of range do you get with that tank? I was thinking about going with the 50 gallon.

Well the 2011-2014 turbo needs to be replaced cause it has ceramic ball bearings
2011 -to present have a defective CP4
also the 6.7 have a crappy radiator that leaks where the metal & plastics connects

F350blown said:

They absolutely suck. Mine blew 2 weeks ago, few hundred miles out of warranty on vacation. Ford customer service is an absolute joke. I had 2017 King Ranch to deliver in 3 weeks too. Just google Ford 6.7 valve or glow plugs

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gunman41mag said:

Well the 2011-2014 turbo needs to be replaced cause it has ceramic ball bearings
2011 -to present have a defective CP4
also the 6.7 have a crappy radiator that leaks where the metal & plastics connects

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2016 here, no complaints or problems. Now I will say that the statement about the early turbo's is partially true. I've known of a few, but it's a mixed bag. My BIL has over 100k on his original turbo. The CP4 pump has had some problems, but not as many as that would lead you to believe. Today's diesel is not great, and the CP4 needs lubrication. I dope every tank with a cetane improver and lube. Opti-Lube is a good one. There are others.
The statement about the guy that had his "blow" would be an exception rather than rule. There are some documented cases of rocker arm wear, BUT, it is mainly contributed to the reduction of zinc and phosphorus in the new CK-4 lubes. Pick an oil off Ford's approved list, or if you are stuck with a CK-4 low Z&P formula for some reason, a healthy dose of Redline break in additive will bring that right up the CJ-4 levels, and motor on. If you are hauling groceries, a 10w30 is fine. Even light towing it's OK. Heavier, demanding loads, step on up to a 5w or 15w40 depending on temperature. You engine will thank you.
Bypass filtration will help. Anytime you can reduce wear contaminants is a good thing. The AmSoil kit had issues with oil starvation at one point, that may have changed. Oil Charge Systems makes a full kit that works. I run a Racor unit off the oil pressure sender port.
https://www.redlineoil.com/engine-oil-break-in-additive
https://parts.ford.com/content/dam/...iesel_Motor_Oils_Meeting_Ford_WSSM2c171F1.pdf