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unless i read it wrong, the LEFT head is the working head. the right head was the dummy one without a working nervous system. if you think its fake, you think the DNR would give them a ticket for not tagging the deer right? what about the 6 legged fawn on youtube? YouTube - Six Legged Deer...

d00d- i moved this to a new thread. don;t hijack someone elses... that being said, what year truck? any modifications? we need more info to try and help you diagnose it. check you oil? how are your batteries?

1. if its the same dealer who put in cooler number 1 and 2, i might think to call ford customer care line and find a new dealer. 2. what programming are you running?

tt: lets back up a bit. 1. you are seeping oil at the piping joints at the boots. that means that the oil vapors in the system is condensating out and running on the insides of the pipes until they hit the joints. the oil collects in the crevices and through capillary action wicks out...

that is the 2 cycle oil working for you! glad you got it worked out.

the only chips you want to stack are Pringles. on a ford if you buy a REAL chip you only need to do it once. dodge guys and some chevy guys do it, like putting a bulley dog and a quadzilla or van aken box together. its kind of silly really. in the end they spend more than buying a real one...

ummmmm, Jody already beat you to more than 6 programs on a chip? F5 1-16 Position Switch on the fly Chip - Featured Products you are assuming that all the traces on the chip are switchable- i do not believe that they are. 2-3 of them are connected in series with the chip wiring. 1...

tim- that is a LOT of oil to be consuming, but not unheard of. how many miles in the month and a half? how much idling time? read up on the IC boots, they come loose due to the oil in the CCV system. come of that oil might have collected in the intercooler too. take them off, there are 4...

f100- are you saying that they use the truck as the mule to preheat other equipment? that is curious. hoping TG can chime in and relate how the buffs got warmed up with 2 mules pushing all that hydro fluid in -100 in minot...

glad it worked out for you! you don't really need the fuel bowl heater. it can wait. read the wiki on the hutch mod to see how the fuel pickup can suck air through the mixing foot. fixing that may make a difference if you NEED full tanks.

its on the same circuit as the PCM. search the forum here fro fuel bowl heater, its a COMMON problem.

crazy! do you have heat? or is the circuit broken by that stuff. do you have 2 batteries? kinda hard to see from your pics.

sorry, maP sensor, drivers side of engine. compartment. follow the hose from the baby's butt over to the left as you are facing the engine. iirc, its the black hose

did you read the WIKI article? otherwise check the vendors like ITP or DI or the like. they all have it at a cost of 2x the DIY cost.

02- you have something else going on, its NOT tire related. coincidence with tire change, yes. fuel pressure gauge is not an easy or cheap one. not worth the money unless you are racing. you will suck air from those QD fittings. look at the hutch mod to eliminate them. programming will not...

i may have drank too much egg nog, or its the propane fumes getting to me, but if you put a limited slip in the back, should you put one in the front too? i remember it being an option/requirement somehow.

are talking about the regulated fuel system? yes it works, the regulator is about $150-200. you can not use the factory lines, connections and routes to the new devices.

if you are talking about the regulated return mod, that will replace the FPR you just shimmed- FPR= fuel pressure regulator.

the drain assembly is not designed to hold pressure while open. use the fittings and adapters. the BB method if for OBS trucks. SD's need smaller shims.

these guys make one too- Canvas Craft - Ice Fishing Shelters, Boat Covers, Hunting Tents, Repairs and Canvas Work this is my install http://www.superdutydiesel.com/forums/tires-wheels-suspension-accessories/1724-cold-front-installed.html

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i think your top speed is going to be limited to the 4.56 gearing

injector cup: i did not think of that. aside from pulling each one out, i do not think so. did you check your oil? any signs of oil droplets in the coolant in the degass bottle? it could also be the oil cooler that has rusted and sprung a pinhole or the orings gone bad and you might be pushing...

check your water pump and lower radiator hose. look for the weep hole at 6 o'clock on the pump. 7.3's RARELY have head gasket issues. it happens, but not often.

quit your whining, its 2.97 for regular unleaded, 3.25 for #2 here.