Alternator Upgrade

8kgold69

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Hello

I'm new on this forum and look forward to participating in discussions on posts in this forum. I have a 2005 F-350 6.0L crew cab 4X4 SRW long bed. I'm trying to get a clear understanding about upgrading the alternator with more AMPs then the OEM 110 AMP. Here is the purpose of why I want to upgrade the alternator. Every July we head to south Florida for lobstering and fishing for a couple of weeks. During those two weeks the catch is sealed and placed in the freezer. At the end of the second week, we prepare for the seven and haft hour road trip home and want to keep the meat frozen for the duration of the trip. No, Yeti cooler will not keep the meat and other groceries frozen for seven hours. Therefore, I put a cabinet freezer in the bed of my truck, my truck has a topper to protect the freezer and personal items from the elements of nature. The freezer cabinet uses 120V, so I connect an invertor to one of the batteries. Obviously you know the diesel has two batteries. I think when running in the night with lights on, air condition on, and the invertor is on, it draws a lot on the battery. I don't want to stress out the alternator and so I was advised to get a higher AMP alternator. I heard there is a small case, the OEM one, and a large case, which is supposed to be better.
So, would a 140 AMP alternator be sufficient to run everything and is there one that will plug and play?
Do I have to change any of the factory wiring?
Who make a good alternator and/or where can I get one?
Is there any wiring diagrams that suggestion a specific way to wire the invertor?
I was also advised to add a third battery and run a line from the positive post on the alternator to the positive post on the third battery direct and a ground all batteries directly to the alternator. The reason for the third battery, should there be a surge and/or a drop in AMPs, it would go to the third battery and protect the computer from throwing codes. Just trying to cross my Ts and dot my I’s. Any advice, suggestion would be appreciated.
Also note the inverter I will be using is a DeWalt, model # DXAEP/1000. 2000 watt peak power / 1000 watt continuous power.

Thanks
Barry
 

8kgold69

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Thanks for the responses. I will review the information provided and go from there.
Thank you
Barry
 

bismic1

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IMO a 140A alternator will NOT be enough.

I installed the E-series battery boxes on the passenger frame rail and then added two extra batteries (deep cycle) to which I connect an inverter (Samlex 2000W pure sine wave inverter) as needed. I then installed a 250A alternator and upgraded the wiring under the hood and sized the wiring to the batteries appropriately.

I also installed a dual rectifier isolator (from perfect switch) when I connected the two extra batteries to the alternator.

Works well.


Lastly - I am not sure I would want to buy an alternator off of ebay - possible warranty difficulties if ever needed.
 
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william maynard

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i just finished upgrading the stock wiriong on my truck to 2/0 welding wire to my 3 parallel connected 1300AH interstates. the old set
(wired with #6cu) lasted over 10yrs, after i moved them inside the van. i had a 200 amp alternator in early in 2008 but did not upgrade the wirs, and had it burn out in 2023. Now i run a 420 amp single on my 6.0 with stock belt, rudeced pulley and needed just 3 little 1/2 inch spacers bought at Ace to keep the stock belt. Runs like an absolute unit now. Injectors, starter, and assoc electrics all run smoother and milage is a bit better. The whole thing had a "chattery" feeling which is now gone. Hey the new 6.4 starter i bought to pep up the engine is still in the box. my stock starter spins like a champ. 2-3 tdc's and it starts right up. I think the pre heaters are finally fully powered. we'll see... for now:

CNC FABRICATION, LLC
419-636-0000
www.cncfab.us

is my goto for top quality alternators and wiring upgrades. VERY helpful support in this great family business. the alts have 8mm studs, heavy duty redundant diodes, voltage regulators etc. They also offer a great external regulator kit. all the stuff to make it last and they will repair their own stuff.

lifting the alternator 1/2" out of its "cradle" also leaves it cooling better, always a concern with smole frame ford crap... verified by cool to the touch at run temperature, whereas before was too hot to touch.
 

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