Question Caps on the D-gas bottle

[Dogman]

I heard something the other day. That the caps on the D-gas bottle from ford has a 95% failure problem. Witch is leading truck owner to think the have a head gasket problem. Has anybody heard of this? I'm asking because I have had some problems with coolant loss at the D-gas bottle on a new motor. In talking with bill at PowerStrokeHelp. He's had a rash of trucks with cap problems. He got some new ones from ford and tested them and the all failed around 2 to 9 psi. He told me to get a stant or a motorad cap that hold to 16 psi. and that does not click when you put it on. I did, no problem sofar.

 

[2 Stroker]

I heard something the other day. That the caps on the D-gas bottle from ford has a 95% failure problem. Witch is leading truck owner to think the have a head gasket problem. Has anybody heard of this? I'm asking because I have had some problems with coolant loss at the D-gas bottle on a new motor. In talking with bill at PowerStrokeHelp. He's had a rash of trucks with cap problems. He got some new ones from ford and tested them and the all failed around 2 to 9 psi. He told me to get a stant or a motorad cap that hold to 16 psi. and that does not click when you put it on. I did, no problem sofar.

I have heard of this also but most have just replace with new cap problem fixed if it is not a cooler or they may of had a cracked tank and the new full cold mark is Add mark. The thing is with a 6.0 if you are not running gauges you have no idea what your temps are because when the stock gauges move it is to late.
2 stroker

 

[BIG JOE]

Me 3, on the bad Rad Cap deal.. and I'm not so sure it's just the 6.0s, now that you guyz have mentioned it ?

When my 2K was stinky new.. I was loosing coolant, from around the cap.. in the first 500+ miles. Took it back to my dealer.. they replaced the Rad Cap and gave me another one.. IF the new one did the same thing. 160K.. no more issues (and I still have a spare).

Ive thought many times about Posting something about this, when it comes to Overheating issues dunno) on any PSD..... Maybe a good "Firsts, try this" ?? For the future ??

Joe

X2 on git'n a REAL temp gauge too Stroker

 

[JLDickmon]

I see more bad caps on radiators and degas bottles than you can shake a stick at

 

[sss521]

I have been losing fluid out of my d bottle and I was not convinced that it was a real problem because the truck still runs awesome, I will have to try this for sure!

 

[2 Stroker]

I have been losing fluid out of my d bottle and I was not convinced that it was a real problem because the truck still runs awesome, I will have to try this for sure!

The only way you can tell if you have a true problem is with a set of gauges that can tell the difference between ECT-EOT and the max difference is 15 degrees going down the freeway 55-60 mph after it warms up may take up to 15 minutes. If the temps are more than 15* your coolers are plugged it starts with the oil cooler and goes to the EGR cooler. The only help is a coolent flush and the installing ELC coolent May need new oil cooler and EGR cooler.


ELC is the coolant recommended and used by International for this engine. .


Coolant Flush for changing to ELC

Drain coolant by removing lower radiator hose. Drain block from plug on drivers side of the block. Remove the thermostat. Replace plug in block and put lower hose back on. Put thermostat housing back on without thermostat. Fill with distilled water. run for 5 minutes then drain as above..Fill and run 5 more minutes drain. Put in 1 gallon of Restore an top with distilled water. Drive it for an 60-90 minutes then drain. Flush 2 times with distilled water or whatever it takes to come clear. Put 2 qts of VC-9 and fill with distilled water. Drive it for about 60-90 minutes. Drain and flush after. Flush 3 more times with distilled water untill it come out clean. Replace thermostat or put in a new one. Put hose back, make sure block plug is tight. Add 3.5 gallons of ELC concentrate and top off with distilled water. Make sure to run engine for 5 minutes between flushes to circulate the water good. Have heater on set to hi while doing this to flush the heater core too.
2 stroker

 

[Dogman]

I have been losing fluid out of my d bottle and I was not convinced that it was a real problem because the truck still runs awesome, I will have to try this for sure!

The EZ thing is start the truck look at the D-GAS BOTTLE see if the coolant is bubbling at the back of the bottle. If not the the chance is the oil cooler maybe the problem or as stroker said a good flush. If your bubbling in the bottle then you have a Head problem. I had this problem and it was not the heads, it was a crack in the cylinder below the deck of the block. All the dealer missed it and so I ended up with a new motor.
I'm have a weeping problem now on my truck and have not been able to find it. I'm still looking for it. Thinking it's the rad.

 

[sss521]

I have never seen any bubbling and it only does it under load so I cannot see it coming out. I have looked on the block and I have not seen any signs of leakage coming out, so it is not external. Also I have never had oil in the water or water in the oil, and it has done this for two years only when I drive the **** out of it.

 

[Dogman]

I'd do the flush and change coolant and the cap on the D-Gas bottle to the non click kind. The stant was like 6 bucks at AZ.

 

[sss521]

Ok I just went to ford yesterday and bought a new one but I will go get a aftermarket one if you think they are better