Home made exhaust brake

rammertide07

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Your post attracted my attention, but I want to ask you: Why dont you only make the EBPV mod?. I want to know what are your thougths in pros and contrs, doing that cheap mod?. :dunno

My opinion on the ebpv mod is N/A. I've never seen a truck with this mod nor have I operated this mod on a truck. But from what I heard (not a great source) the ebpv mod isn't as good as an exhaust brake when pulling 10k+ loads. Just my .02. I'm not really up to par on how to even do this mod exactly or how sure it works. From what I can tell all it is doing is keeping more exhaust gas out of the turbo..which puts more exhaust into the down pipe...which adds a little bit of back pressure. Not a physics genious, but I think the exhaust brake can apply more back pressure than that. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong...thanks
 

DOC-MX

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My opinion on the ebpv mod is N/A. I've never seen a truck with this mod nor have I operated this mod on a truck. But from what I heard (not a great source) the ebpv mod isn't as good as an exhaust brake when pulling 10k+ loads. Just my .02. I'm not really up to par on how to even do this mod exactly or how sure it works. From what I can tell all it is doing is keeping more exhaust gas out of the turbo..which puts more exhaust into the down pipe...which adds a little bit of back pressure. Not a physics genious, but I think the exhaust brake can apply more back pressure than that. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong...thanks

Well, I have it and works fine for me, I also have read about the less effectiveness when pulling 10k+ loads, but if you have equilibrated the trailer brakes, truck brakes with a good break controller and the DIY exhaust brake, I think you can make it. Lets see if anybody chime in later.
 

BIG JOE

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Well, I have it and works fine for me, I also have read about the less effectiveness when pulling 10k+ loads, but if you have equilibrated the trailer brakes, truck brakes with a good break controller and the DIY exhaust brake, I think you can make it. Lets see if anybody chime in later.

X2, 8 years & 120K miles now.. with a 12K 5r in tow.
 

rammertide07

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Well, I have it and works fine for me, I also have read about the less effectiveness when pulling 10k+ loads, but if you have equilibrated the trailer brakes, truck brakes with a good break controller and the DIY exhaust brake, I think you can make it. Lets see if anybody chime in later.

Well I first pulled my 5th wheel I was playing with the brakes till I got them to where I liked them. I didn't have time to take them to a shop or even calibrate the brakes myself. I think the exhaust brake would be useful in emergency stopping situations...like when that driver of the dodge neon (whom has never pulled a load and doesnt understand that the trucks can't stop on a dime) pulls out in front of you. Or when the bread truck think he's a nascar driver in a highly tuned vehicle.

More than likely I will do the ebpv valve myself because I dont have the tools/supplies to make an exhaust brake. I was mainly throwing the idea out there because the price of the exhaust brake seemed so outrageous. I like making things in the shop and wanted to get other peoples thought on making this a diy application. I'm sure if a "simple" way to do this was designed it would be very useful and save people $$$. I did not create this post to bash the ebpv mod.
 

rammertide07

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A write-up I found about the ebpv mod....

"Do you offer a "Decel" or "Exhaust Brake" calibration?
Simply put, no, we don't because it goes against our basic tenet which, in part, is to provide safe, reliable products to our customers.

For those who don't know, this is a calibration that uses the EBV (Exhaust Backpressure Valve) as a makeshift exhaust brake. While this setup may work reasonably well for lightly loaded vehicles, we generally do not recommend this type of calibration... at least not for automatic transmission vehicles. There are a few reasons we don't recommend this.

First, in order to transfer the energy of the moving vehicle to the engine during deceleration, two things must occur: the torque converter must remain locked, and the coast clutch must be engaged. The problem with this is that the coast clutch on a stock transmission only has 3 friction plates, and these are smaller than the standard forward clutches. On 2001 and later transmissions, you also run the possibility of damaging the intermediate sprag or "diode," which will result in an immediate transmission teardown. Again, lightly loaded vehicles would have less of a problem with this, but the general idea of an exhaust brake is to be able to slow larger loads without overheating the standard brake system. It is these types of loads that can cause transmission damage. Obviously, a manual transmission would be free from these types of situations.

Second, whenever you increase exhaust backpressure, you need to make sure that the exhaust valve springs are capable of preventing the pressure in the exhaust system from lifting the exhaust valve from the valve seat, as this would result in a collision with the piston. Normal valve spring seat pressure is 70-75 PSI for NEW valve springs and deteriorates from there. Given that the surface area of the back of the exhaust valve is approximately 1.9 square inches, it would take only 40 PSI of exhaust pressure to lift the valve off the seat, even with new valve springs.

To put it simply, if you plan to use an exhaust brake, either through the use of the EBV or by purchasing an aftermarket stand alone unit, you will need to consider the condition of your transmission and exhaust valve springs in order to ensure safe, reliable operation. "
 

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