Pinion Seal

[HCAbowman]

Hey everyone!

Ive got to change my pinion seal on my X, 2000 model, well when I looked in my Haynes manual, it said for a a Ford 10.5 and a Dana 80, well my question is I thought the sterlings were 10.25 and not 10.5, but anyway, I think I can do it, has anyone done it and are there any snags I need to look out for?

 

[Trapper77]

I am not going to be a whole lot of help but maybe a little. Mine was leaking in my F350 but it was under warrenty. The mechanic that fixed it said that unless you are real carefull putting the gasket in it can get pinched and cut pretty easy and then you have to do it all over again. I have messed with pinion gears on other things but don't have much knowledge on stuff this new so I don't want to confuse anybody with miss information for your rig.


Trapper

 

[Black_Mamba]

No offense but the tech was blowing smoke up your butt. The seal looks like front wheel seals on the front hubs. The only rubber on the seal is in the center that seals againest the yoke. Simply remove your driveline at the axle only and pull back and swing it out of your way or tie it up. Then unloosen the nut on the yoke. Now use a yoke puller and pull the yoke off. Then pry the old seal out. Take your new seal and put grease (wheel bearing grease works) where the little spring is incorporated into the seal and pack it. Reason so when putting in the seal the spring don't pop out. Then simply tap the seal in like you would do if you were repacking your front hubs on a 2WD. Then slide the yoke on and put the nut on. Tighten it up w/ a impact making sure there is no play when you have tightened it. and put you driveline on. Of course check your rearend to make sure the fluid level is at the correct level then your done. All in all it takes about 30 minutes, an hour tops if you haven't ever messed with one before. Any more questions just ask. I have worked on nothing but the Superdutys and the OBS's with Powerstrokes.

 

[HCAbowman]

Thank you for the help Black Mamba, The driveshaft doesnt look too hard to drop, so as long as I mark it and put it back together in line I should be ok-I have never messed with one, but If I put it back together the way it comes apart, I think I will be good to go!
Thanks again!

 

[tfalk]

All my experience is with Mustang driveshafts which might be different... if they are similar, than similar things might work. On the mustang, the driveshaft bolts are loctite'd in. We have to use a 12mm 12-point wrench. I've found that a 2 foot pipe on the wrench will usually break most of them free. If not, a couple of seconds with a propane torch will usually break the loctite loose.

 

[FordMastertech]

The Excursion has a 10.5 Sterling axle in the rear. To replace the pinion seal you want to mark the pinion nut and end of the pinion shaft also count how many threads are hanging out of the nut. I use a prick punch to mark them and it helps in getting the torque and preload back in spec. When tightening the nut just bring the marks back in line, count the threads hanging out from the nut and if correct go a tic more in tightening the pinion nut. If you tighten the nut too much you will mess up the pinion bearing preload and will be replacing the bearings shortly after. I like to pack the back of the seal with grease to help in holding the garter spring in place when you are banning the seal into the housing. Make sure the flange doesn't have a grove worn in it and if so replace it or the new seal will leak. Some of the new seals have a rubber coating on the flange to help in sealing the flange to the axle, they are a little more of a pain to install but they will go in pretty easy with the proper driver.
FMT

 

[HCAbowman]

Thank you FMT, What kind of seal seater should I get? The manual says I can use a large socket or a seal seater, Where does one get one of these fancy tools? I guess if nothing else, I can rent one from Auto zone!