Start/No Start then Start/No Start. Not Fuel Filters...

Discussion in '6.0L PowerStroke Engine & Drivetrain' started by BigMook89508, Sep 26, 2021.

  1. BigMook89508

    BigMook89508 SDD Junior Member

    Age:
    53
    Messages:
    43
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2021
    Location:
    Reno, Nevada
    Nah I totally understand why you cannot make a definitive diagnosis without being right here. I supposed then I should start with pulling the Turbo because I did not like seeing melted plastic like the Turbo is getting too hot. I can see how that will damage the IPR and ICP as well as potential wiring loom areas.

    So the plan is:

    1. Pull and deal with possible turbo issue based on heat presence and codes.
    2. While the Turbo is out making the IPR and ICP easier the get hands on, I will change both out and replace wiring and plugs on both.
    3. If it presents itself maybe I will pull the HPOP cover and check seals. If it appears seals are bad and pump is good maybe I will just do that.
    4. Optional FCIM upgrade later.

    Does that sound like a decent plan?

    Thanks for all the help and insight.

    Sent from my KB2007 using Tapatalk
     
  2. bismic1

    bismic1 Full Access Member

    Messages:
    203
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2008
    Location:
    Texas
    That sounds like a good plan to me.
     
    BigMook89508 likes this.
  3. bismic1

    bismic1 Full Access Member

    Messages:
    203
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2008
    Location:
    Texas
    I understand about tight budgets, but every model year has some weak points and sometimes when you are into the "tear down" mode, it is ultimately best to address them!

    The 2003-2004 HPOP issues is truly a disappointing issue - just like the STC fitting on the 2005 and up and the 2004.5 and up EGR cooler.

    Fuel pressure (all model years) is another disappointment, but the blue spring usually fixes it.

    The weak FICMs (all model years also) is another disappointment, but a lot of times they fail because of battery or alternator problems.
     
  4. bismic1

    bismic1 Full Access Member

    Messages:
    203
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2008
    Location:
    Texas
    I guess the last reliability thing to throw your way is in regards to the oil cooler.

    You really need to keep an eye on the oil vs coolant temperature differentials. Anything approaching 15 degrees is a potential issue with the oil cooler being plugged. Changing to an EC-1 rated ELC coolant (AFTER properly cleaning the coolant system) will practically eliminate issues with plugged oil coolers. Eliminating plugged oil coolers greatly reduces the chance of a failed oil cooler.
     
  5. BigMook89508

    BigMook89508 SDD Junior Member

    Age:
    53
    Messages:
    43
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2021
    Location:
    Reno, Nevada
    Thank you.

    I bought the blue springs kit and will do that as well. While it is torn down I figure at least looking over the HPOP may be a good idea if for no other reason to replace with new seals.

    A new FCIM is a lot cheaper than an oil pump and I may just change that out later.

    Since the Turbo coded I will definitely deal with that. It adds yo but not like it would in a shop and I have all winter to do a little at a time.

    What do you think about the EGR delete?

    Sent from my KB2007 using Tapatalk
     
  6. bismic1

    bismic1 Full Access Member

    Messages:
    203
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2008
    Location:
    Texas
    Don't get a new FICM. They are still made with weak parts. As I posted, get it upgraded at one of the two places I recommended. New ones are just as bad as the old ones. Some people get new power boards, but the logic board goes bad about as often as the power board does.

    Since you can not get tunes for EGR deletes anymore, I do not think it is wise. Just my 2 cents.
     
    BigMook89508 likes this.
  7. bismic1

    bismic1 Full Access Member

    Messages:
    203
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2008
    Location:
    Texas
    Any updates?
     
  8. BigMook89508

    BigMook89508 SDD Junior Member

    Age:
    53
    Messages:
    43
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2021
    Location:
    Reno, Nevada
    None as of yet. I am still waiting in the new IPR and ICP, then I will pull the Turbo. I just yesterday got it behind the RV gate.

    I was going to ask if it is an issue if I try to start it with the turbo off so if it doesn't fire I can go straight to the HPOP.

    Also is there only 1 turbo for the 6.0L and no different ones? If I go ahead and order one I do not want to have spent the money and have to return it.

    Sent from my KB2007 using Tapatalk
     
  9. bismic1

    bismic1 Full Access Member

    Messages:
    203
    Likes Received:
    15
    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2008
    Location:
    Texas
    You can do the ICP and IPR with the turbo on.
    Remove the intake, the degas bottle (or at least remove the holddown bolts and push it to the side), and the FICM. You should be able to reach around and do what you need to do. You will need to plug up the small hose openings on the degas bottle or drain 2 gallons of coolant. I have small sections of hose with plugs in the end that I put on them. I also put plugs in the ends of the small hoses when I remove them from the degas bottle.

    There are good videos on it - IIRC DieselTechRon has a few.

    Don't try to fire it off without the turbo on.

    There are different Turbos for the 6.0L depending on how much horsepower you want or what type of performance you want (towing, acceleration, etc). They even sell non-VGT turbos (you need a tune for it).

    The OEM turbo is fine IMO, but I really like the turbos sold by KC Turbo.
     
    BigMook89508 likes this.
  10. BigMook89508

    BigMook89508 SDD Junior Member

    Age:
    53
    Messages:
    43
    Likes Received:
    7
    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2021
    Location:
    Reno, Nevada
    Thank you. So they are based in how much HP rather than different types like mounting points. I saw a turbo where they made it a point to show that it had no tabs for bolts to mount to the stand. That made me question if there were differences that I needed to be concerned about. If it doesn't matter then I will pick a turbo up.

    I wanted to remove the Turbo for 2 reasons.

    1. To unplug the ICP, I removed the Degas bottle, air intake tubes from the air filter to the turbo and the FICM. That is where I found the melted part of the tube in the turbo. The ICP plug mainly broke off because of my giant hands and I still could not get close enough to even touch the plug.

    2. Also there was that DTM code for the Turbo and the Melted Intake tube. Perhaps I have a Turbo issue as well. I wanted to make sure and replace it all if that became an issue. This will also make it easier for my caveman hands to replace the ICP and IPR along with new pigtails.

    I will update as soon as I can do the job when the parts come. In the meantime I will start the teardown.

    Sent from my KB2007 using Tapatalk
     
    bismic1 likes this.

Share This Page