Autometer Gauges

blueoneton

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Hi Everyone,

Got a question about the Autometer Gauges. I am finally getting Autometer Gauges installed in my 2002 F350 7.3 (Boost/Pyro/ Volt)

Just wondering what are the norma readings I should be looking for with each of these gauges?


Thanks
bot
 

BJS

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boost you're looking to see if your are over/under boosting for a given driving condition, paying attention to the boot gauge (keep it low) will help improve your mileage.

Pyro You're looking to make sure that you do not get it too hot 1400° is the normal cutoff and time to back off.

volt - why did you get this one normal 3rd gauge is trans temp

The biggest thing is to drive around with you think everything is normal with the truck and see what is happening on the gauges. You're looking for abnormalities and deviations from normal. think of it like your tach if you got in your truck today and were cruising down the interstate at 65 and you tach showed you turning 3000 rpm you'd know something was wrong.
 

blueoneton

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BJS,

I really don't do any heavy pulling/hauling and I keep the fluid changed every 25000 or so. I like the volt gauge to let me monitor the charging system. I could never understand why the engineers at Ford didn't include a volt or amp gauge to begin with? But thanks for the information.
 

Michael

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For pyro, the Navistar official recommendation is to keep it below 1250°F sustained (pre-turbo measurement). Many people run theirs higher for short bursts, but you don't want to see a sustained value over that.

My OBS truck has a factory voltmeter, but it is practically worthless. I had an alternator go bad and start overcharging (well over 16 volts). The warning light came on, but the factory voltmeter still showed a "normal" range. Fortunately I had a voltmeter sitting in my console (I have ISSPRO Performax gauges, which allows plug & play swapping of gauges). I plugged the voltmeter in, and immediately thought my engineers had screwed up since I couldn't possibly be getting 16.8 volts. I pulled over and dug the Fluke out of the toolbox and confirmed that the gauge was reading correctly.

The funniest part was the NAPA guy trying to tell me that 16.8 volts was perfectly acceptable out of an alternator, and that Exide agrees with him. I was able to tell him that in my previous role overseeing electrical and electronic components for a major forklift manufacturer, I had the official statement from Exide limiting continuous charging voltage to something like 14.1 volts.

Regards,
Michael Pliska
 

blueoneton

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Thanks Michael for the reply. I have noticed my Autometer volt gauge reads around 14.1/14.3 after the glow plugs cycle off. When the glow plugs are cyclying, the volt gauge stays in the 12.0 area.


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RSG

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... Fortunately I had a voltmeter sitting in my console (I have ISSPRO Performax gauges, which allows plug & play swapping of gauges). I plugged the voltmeter in, and immediately thought my engineers had screwed up since I couldn't possibly be getting 16.8 volts. I pulled over and dug the Fluke out of the toolbox and confirmed that the gauge was reading correctly.

Good news is I just learned that Performax is plug & play. That takes the angst off my worry about gauge stack orientation. I am buying these bad boys..:sweet

Bad news is you actually used a Fluke to double check your (Performax?) volt meter. Do we have trust issues with both your engineers and your product! :sly

Just playing with ya, Michael! :stir
:D
(Dang, I'm getting 14.1-14.4 charge voltage according to my radar detector. Now you got me thinkin'...:dizzy)
 

early 99 stroker

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pistons begin to melt at 1300*..short burst like drag racing can be above 1300 as long as you don't give the piston time enough to soak in that 1300* of heat to start melting...1250 is the max you want to hold at any given time.....65 MPH you should see 3-5lb of boost any thing over 25-27lb of boost is not a good thing for a stock turbo...your alt sounds good...should have at least 12V before key on..you need at least 10.5v while the GP cycle and the truck to fire..the GP will stay on for up to 2 minutes..after they shut off the Volts should climb to a minimum of 12.5V. I have a LED light on my dash that tells me the GP relay has indeed tuned on..when very cold the GP relay will stay on for up to 2 minutes..even after the dummy wait to start light goes out...it also tells me the GP relay is working..if it don't light up..I know I have a bad relay..the other cool thing about this LED is in summer time after the truck has been warmed up..the GP will not turn on even throw the WTS light comes on..if my LED doesn't come on..ill start her right up without waiting for the WTS light to go out..
 
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DaveBen

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The WTS is sort of a test light when it is hot. The glow plugs do not cycle, just the light.

Dave
 

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