ward cleaver
Full Access Member
I'm trying to do the fuel tank breather upgrade. Does anybody know how to remove the "roll-over valve" on a '97? What can I replace it with to make the tank breath better/fill faster?
Question Need info on fuel tank breather upgrade
- Thread starter ward cleaver
- Start date
DOC-MX
FOREIGN MEMBER
BJS
Full Access Member
once you drop the tank you'll just need a 3/4" npt to hose barb 90° elbow then run that up to the filler neck. just make sure that there is a gradual rise in the hose and no sagging spots. I used a street steel street elbow to go into the filler neck on mine.
You will also want to remove the little splash back spring loaded hole gizmo in the filler neck. You need to push it down into the neck and you can get it out it is just crimped in place.
The original roll over valve is simply press fitted so just pull to remove it you'll need the rubber grommet to use the elbow mentioned earlier.
You will also want to remove the little splash back spring loaded hole gizmo in the filler neck. You need to push it down into the neck and you can get it out it is just crimped in place.
The original roll over valve is simply press fitted so just pull to remove it you'll need the rubber grommet to use the elbow mentioned earlier.
ward cleaver
Full Access Member
Thanks guys, I'm installing a 3/8"valve and line from my aux tank and want to tee this into the breather set-up. can I get away with a 3/8" breather or should I use 1/2" hose?
Last edited:
BJS
Full Access Member
Bigger is better and will help allow the air to flow out easier when you are filling the tank especially with the large truck nozzles. Personally I would step the line up to 1/2" which would be easy to do and possibly with a single fitting, but if you already have 3/8" line then it'll work for you no problem.
DOC-MX
FOREIGN MEMBER
X2 what he said.
ward cleaver
Full Access Member
I already have the 3/8" fittings for the aux tank, (ball valve,hose barbs) But haven't got the breather hose or fittings. I'll get 1/2" for those, but are you saying I should go with 1/2" out of the aux tank too?
BJS
Full Access Member
depends on what size fittings are on the aux tank.
From what it sounds like you are going to be installing an in bed axillary tank which will have a ball valve on the drain and you are going to do the tank vent mod and use that line to tap into for refilling the original tank.
If that is the case then 1/2 would be better for you in terms of the amount of time you'll have to wait for the tank to fill since this will be a manual operation type valve. For fastest fill times you will need to crack or remove the front fuel cap to allow the tank to vent.
Based on the above guesses you will not have a problem with 3/8" line going from the tank to the Tee into your vent line. You should be able to find a Tee that is 1/2 X 1/2 X 3/8 which would make everything work out well. Your fill times would be a bit quicker with 1/2" hose
presuming that you have a 3/8 valve that is threaded on the outlets, not directly to a hose barb, then I would look into getting a 1/2" hose barb that will thread onto the ball valve this will allow you to simplify your hoses and only have one size of hose under there and get quicker flows too.
From what it sounds like you are going to be installing an in bed axillary tank which will have a ball valve on the drain and you are going to do the tank vent mod and use that line to tap into for refilling the original tank.
If that is the case then 1/2 would be better for you in terms of the amount of time you'll have to wait for the tank to fill since this will be a manual operation type valve. For fastest fill times you will need to crack or remove the front fuel cap to allow the tank to vent.
Based on the above guesses you will not have a problem with 3/8" line going from the tank to the Tee into your vent line. You should be able to find a Tee that is 1/2 X 1/2 X 3/8 which would make everything work out well. Your fill times would be a bit quicker with 1/2" hose
presuming that you have a 3/8 valve that is threaded on the outlets, not directly to a hose barb, then I would look into getting a 1/2" hose barb that will thread onto the ball valve this will allow you to simplify your hoses and only have one size of hose under there and get quicker flows too.
ward cleaver
Full Access Member
Thanks for the help. I think I'll return the 3/8" fittings and go with the 1/2" per your suggestion. (Faster is Better).
Last edited:
ward cleaver
Full Access Member
I did the breather mod on the front tank using 1/2" hose and fittings.
I welded 2 nipples into the filler neck, (1 for the breather and 1 for the aux tank connection). It all worked great.
p.s. I purchased locking gas caps about 2 years ago and just now figured out they were unvented, so I drilled vents in 'em and what a difference that makes.
I welded 2 nipples into the filler neck, (1 for the breather and 1 for the aux tank connection). It all worked great.
p.s. I purchased locking gas caps about 2 years ago and just now figured out they were unvented, so I drilled vents in 'em and what a difference that makes.
