Question Starting issues....

[AKmud]

I have a 2000 F350 7.3 Superduty mated with a 6sp manual tranny. I have been experiencing some starting problems in the last couple of weeks (since the weather has been cooler). The truck idles rough and puts out a fair amount of white smoke on startup that smells heavily of raw fuel, but clears up after 20-30 seconds or so.

Two days ago, I went to start it and it wouldn't fire. It turned over nice and fast, but no fire. A little troubleshooting and I found a small 20A fuse under the hood that was blown. I changed it and it started like normal. I don't have an owners manual so I'm not sure what the fuse controls but I am guessing a fuel pump relay or something. It has been started several times since then and no problems other than the normal cold smoke I mentioned.

This morning (temp around 25*F) it wouldn't start again. I checked the fuse block and no blown fuses. I wiggled things around and then it started just fine. I had the hood open when it started this time and when I got back out to shut the hood, I noticed the white smoke was coming up through the engine compartment quite heavily. I couldn't tell where it was coming from, but it obviously wasn't from the end of the exhaust pipe.

My question is.....is the smelly smoke anything to worry about or is it normal for colder weather and why would it be coming up through the engine compartment?? Turbo problems? My coolant level hasn't changed so I don't think it is a water problem. The only thing I have changed is running 2-stroke oil now. This is the first tank I have tried the 2-stroke in.

I'm not very familiar with the PSD (this is my first), my last was a Cummins.

Any ideas?

 

[BJS]

well which fuse was blown that's a start to diagnosing the problem

Beyond that I would check on the glow plugs and the glow plug relay.

 

[BIG JOE]

well which fuse was blown that's a start to diagnosing the problem

Beyond that I would check on the glow plugs and the glow plug relay.

What BJS said.

As far as it starting after you wiggled things around ? You may have a loose connection or corrosion at a GPR connection....... or at the valve cover connectors.

White smoke is: Vaporized but Un-burnt Diesel

As far as the white smoke.. under the hood ? with the hood open, have someone else start it while yer watching things.... Mainly around the down pipe, where it connects to the turbo. The downpipe/turbo clamp might be loose.

Joe

 

[AKmud]

Thanks, I'll check the down pipe. I can't find a map of the fuses under the hood since I don't have the owners manual (bought it used, dealer didn't have it). My father in law has a 2002 model so I'll see if the fuse blocks are the same. I have a Haynes manual, but it doesn't map out the fuses.

 

[BIG JOE]

Thanks, I'll check the down pipe. I can't find a map of the fuses under the hood since I don't have the owners manual (bought it used, dealer didn't have it). My father in law has a 2002 model so I'll see if the fuse blocks are the same. I have a Haynes manual, but it doesn't map out the fuses.

Maybe someone here might/will post the Fuse Location Pages from a CD.. ?? Yer FIL's manual should be close to the same.. depending on equipment packages.

Sometimes.. if you go to the Dealer Parts counter.. the Parts guy will print you the legend from their PC files.

I'd get yer Dealer Sales guyz involved.. to give you some Boost with the parts guy





Mines a 2K also, so if I can be of any help.. Leme know

 

[AKmud]

Well.....it didn't want to start this afternoon after work. I'm guessing I have a glow plug problem. When I first cranked it, there was nothing, didn't even act like it wanted to start. It produced quite a bit of white "smoke" out the tailpipe and some came back up into the engine compartment again. It really smelled like diesel so I'm guessing it was just atomized, unburnt fuel which kind of leads me to believe it isn't an injector problem.

After cranking it a couple of times (and cycling the GPs) it would fire just a little bit at the beginning of the crank. When I let off and tried again, same result. This happened probably 4-6 times then it finally took and fired up but ran kind of rough with a lot of white smoke.

My theory is that the glow plugs aren't working and it has to generate some heat (via friction from cranking and eventually light firing) before it will start.

Am I on the right track? If so, is it a major job to replace the plugs? I took the day off of work tomorrow so I can get this thing fixed since my bro in law offered his 40' x 60' heated shop to work in.

 

[BJS]

glow plugs are not hard to do just need a 1/4" deep well sockets.

the valve covers come off easy and you can reach all of the bolts if you stick with the 1/4" sockets and a universal for the ones in the back.

you also are likely, or maybe the only problem, is that your glow plug relay is bad. they are relatively inexpensive, there are better options but they require you to have some time for shipping unless you have an electronics supply house there near you.

Before you go tearing into everything some tests to determine what you actually need to replace.

Glow plug relay: (help is beneficial here)
Turn truck to trigger glow plugs
Measure voltage on the hot side of the glow plug relay
Measure voltage on the triggered side of the relay
Voltage drop should be less than 0.5V

Glow plugs & UVC harness combined

Truck off key in your pocket
Remove plugs going to the valve covers
Measure resistance to ground of the two outside pins on each end of the connector connector
Resistance should be between 0.1 Ohm and 0.5 Ohm lower is better but zero is bad

When it comes to glow plugs people tend to have had problems with autolite glow plugs failing rapidly and swelling so that they cannot be removed easily. People have better luck with plugs that are stamped "beru" or "made in italy" on them in terms of length of life and removal when they do fail. These are available from Ford or Autozone has been known to stock them.

You may also have problems with your valve cover gaskets and/or under valve cover wiring harnesses. If you will not have the ability to run to the store once you get it apart then you might want to look at picking up some when you're out incase you need them but check the return policy if unopened.

The alternative for the glow plug relay is the stancor relay.

All of the part numbers that you need are up in the part number sticky.

 

[schreckman]

I am having this exact problem of the hard start and white smoke as it gets cooler. But also I noticed the truck leaks diesel fuel on the drive way just a bit until it is warm and it makes a on and off noise similar to a garden hose being tuned on and off.

ANy ideas why that would happen?

 

[AKmud]

Thanks for the detailed info BJS. I have a friend who is a diesel mechanic for our local municipality. He came over last night and took a look. Of course, it was still warm from the drive home so no problems could be reproduced. He said from the symptoms I described, there is a good chance it is the HPOP. He said their shop replaces them regularly on these model Fords.

We are doing a "diagnostic" on the truck this morning. I just went out a bit ago and the truck did the same thing and wouldn't start so I plugged in the block heater. We figure if adding heat fixes the problem, it would have to be the glow plugs or something in the GP system. If the problem remains even with heat, we will be looking into the HPOP inducing injector problems.

I'm going to print out your notes as a trouble shooting guide if we narrow it down to the GP system.

 

[BJS]

I am having this exact problem of the hard start and white smoke as it gets cooler. But also I noticed the truck leaks diesel fuel on the drive way just a bit until it is warm and it makes a on and off noise similar to a garden hose being tuned on and off.

ANy ideas why that would happen?

the on/off noise you are hearing is the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve (EBPV) it is there to aid in warming the engine up in cold weather.

There is a backpressure sensor on the side of the HPOP with at tube going to the passenger's manifold this is likely clogged, replacements are inexpensive from Ford.

For the fuel leak likely is that it is your fuel filter drain valve. When cold it leaks and with the expansion from heat it allows it to seal. you'll need 2 -202 viton (don't use rubber) o-rings to seal it up or you can buy the whole drain assembly for a reasonable price so I'm told.