Alignment issue? Need camber specs....

johndeerebones

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Been having a problem for a couple months now, when I turn hard, left or right, truck wants to keep trying to turn itself left or right, doesn't want to center, pulls pretty hard. Sometimes does it at highway speeds, mostly to the right on the highway, sometimes left though. This winter in the snow and in 4wd, the truck had a mind of its own, and my backside puckered up every time I met someone on the road. If there was a rut it WAS following it.....

First thing I did was the obvious jacked up one side at a time and checked for steering slop, ball joint slop, brake drag, etc, all were in like new condition, not kidding, no slop at all in steering, ball joints, no brake or bearing drag, axle shafts didn't turn with the wheels, so hubs were unlocked when checked.

First try I thought my auto hubs might be sticking engaged, as this is kinda what it feels like, removed the hubs and inspected for anything broken or lack of grease etc and they were fine, put em back together and still had a problem, took them back apart and took the actuating ring out and put the rest back in, so they couldn't engage at all, (they are still like this by the way), still had the problem.

Fast forward to tonight. On a wim I took two levels, one at wheel angle, one at plumb, and found this

camber on both sides is atleast positive 5 degrees, which is like this \ /.
I added a leaf a couple years ago from a SD and it drove fine to this point and didn't wear tires, but I notice it is starting to wear the tires a tad more on the outside than the inside. I am gonna mark tire treads tommorrow in the level shop at work and measure my toe in for kicks.
But shouldn't camber on these dana 50s be something around negative 2 or 3 degrees?, as in like this / \
 
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clem

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I had my camber checked 25K ago,left was1.2º,right was 1.1º The spring shop that checked said it was in spec.The tires on both sides seem slightly tipped out at the top but seem to wear and steer ok.hope this helps.
 

johndeerebones

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I had my camber checked 25K ago,left was1.2º,right was 1.1º The spring shop that checked said it was in spec.The tires on both sides seem slightly tipped out at the top but seem to wear and steer ok.hope this helps.

That's closer to what I thought, I still think it should be negative a bit. I went to lowes and bought a welders type of angle guage, so I can accurately tell the degrees, instead of ehhhh, looks like about 1*, or .....
 

milspark1

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I had a similiar problem with my truck. After changing to manual lock hubs changing brakes shoes and a trip to the alignment shop with no help, I ended up finding the problem myself. My inner bearings were going out. Once I changed to new bearings inner and outer, I had the truck realigned and it is back to normal. It may be worth a look. Hope it helps.
 

johndeerebones

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I had a similiar problem with my truck. After changing to manual lock hubs changing brakes shoes and a trip to the alignment shop with no help, I ended up finding the problem myself. My inner bearings were going out. Once I changed to new bearings inner and outer, I had the truck realigned and it is back to normal. It may be worth a look. Hope it helps.


No kidding, thats a thought, couldn't you feel it on the wiggle test though???
 

milspark1

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I didn't notice it, that is why originally i didn't go any farther than the brakes and alignment. It was only after I tore the whole hub off and checked everything that I found it. The dust seal was torn and the back of the bearing race was starting to turn blueish. I got lucky i didn't freeze it up. The most trouble I had was finding the right hub wrench for the automatic hubs. NAPA had one for about $20. Make sure you let us know what you find.
 

johndeerebones

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I didn't notice it, that is why originally i didn't go any farther than the brakes and alignment. It was only after I tore the whole hub off and checked everything that I found it. The dust seal was torn and the back of the bearing race was starting to turn blueish. I got lucky i didn't freeze it up. The most trouble I had was finding the right hub wrench for the automatic hubs. NAPA had one for about $20. Make sure you let us know what you find.

Ya, I have had trouble finding one in the past and just tightened em with a screwdriver and hammer, I cut slots in the nuts w/ a diegrinder so I had something to get ahold of. Last month I checked my bearing adjustment so for kicks I went to Napa and looked, they had one in stock and were having a tool sale, so I got it for like 12 bucks.

Not gonna go there just yet, don't have time, might have a guy in town check the caster for me, I don't have the tooledge to check it. His specialty is Ford ttb axles. I can get a rough idea were my camber and toe are, but I don't have anyway of checking my caster.....
 

johndeerebones

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UPDATE

Well, tonight I finally got a little free time. I checked my toe by painting the center of the tire while spinning and scribing a line w/ an awl in the paint line, so the line would be same all the way around on both tires. Checked my toe and I had about 4 mm of toe OUT, as in the front of the tires were further apart than the backs, don't know how it got this way, all linkage and bushing are tight...
anyway I set my toe for 3mm of toe IN which is a little more than 1\8" and it now seems to drive like it should.
I am still not confortable with the camber, which is still way to much positive camber, tires tipped out at top. I was gonna jack with it, but its getting later and didn't feel like screwing with it right now. I don't know what to go for on camber, I think I'm gonna shoot for about - 1 * and see how that does for me. I don't know if my bushing have enough adjustment to get it, but I looked at them and they have some left, so maybe I can atleast get it to 0*.
 
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