Another use for Glow Plugs? Combustion Temp Sensors

JOAT

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They vary with age from 1-9 ohms IIRC. Resistance increases as they heat, but figure 12 amps per GP initially. I've seen mini relays (about 1/2 inch sq) rated at up to 20 amps, tho I don't know how long they can handle that w/o overheating.
 

MADVAN

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Just seems more feasable to use gp as thermocouple, and use an alternative to start cold. EOT mod, air intake heater ect.

I like the idea.
Right now i have alot of startup smoke now that its cold out. I think its due to one or more broken nozzel springs. Iam going to test temps with a lazer to see. I do not know another way to test rather than by ex temp.

Bill
 

highfive

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MADVAN said:
Just seems more feasable to use gp as thermocouple, and use an alternative to start cold. EOT mod, air intake heater ect.

I like the idea.
Right now i have alot of startup smoke now that its cold out. I think its due to one or more broken nozzel springs. Iam going to test temps with a lazer to see. I do not know another way to test rather than by ex temp.

Bill

Question for you all since I have seen broken nozzle spring referenced more than once in this thread. What symptoms does it cause when a spring is broke? is it lowering the VOP on the injector to where they dribble fuel at first or what?
Thanks
Curious
 

JOAT

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highfive said:
Question for you all since I have seen broken nozzle spring referenced more than once in this thread. What symptoms does it cause when a spring is broke? is it lowering the VOP on the injector to where they dribble fuel at first or what?
Thanks
Curious

From what I've heard, that (startup white smoke) and rough idle seems to be common for a broken spring. Hard to diagnose but some who replaced broken springs themselves when doing a DIY injector MOD had those symptoms go away.
 

action4478

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I thought the spring just pushes the HP oil back to the oil pan to be recharged. Is there more than one spring in there? On second thought , it would probably not let the injector close completely , How far am I off here
 

johndeerebones

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action4478 said:
I thought the spring just pushes the HP oil back to the oil pan to be recharged. Is there more than one spring in there? On second thought , it would probably not let the injector close completely , How far am I off here


That is exactly right. There is a spring on the plunger that springs the oil back out. The nozzle springs holds the needle on the seat in the nozzle so it seals the fuel out. If the spring is broken it lowers the pressure the needle has on the seat. If it low enough, fuel pressure can open the seat. I had 3 broken in my set when I did the diy kit. It defienitely idles better now. Still has white start up smoke, just not near as much as last winter. The smoke is from cold cylinders, wether it is because of your gp system, or low compression. Diesels use the heat of compression to fire the fuel. If compression is low it causes this. Of hard starting. Think of ether babies, like tractors and dozers and stuff. That is because they were low on compression. Plus once we do what we do and decrease exhaust resistance and gut the ebpv it is even harder for the cylinder temps to warm up on a cold start.
 

highfive

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All the nozzle springs were good at the time I changed the pistons out for the 180 ones but at times now my idle gets a little rough, no startup smoke to speak of though. It does have a little chop when cold out the exhaust but I checked glow plugs the other day and have one bad one I need to change out so I blamed it.

Been trying to file away all possible symptoms for a PSD in my head so that when something comes up I know where to look. With the oring issues that folks have been talking about lately I am tempted to pull the injectors and check the orings and nozzle springs just in case but hate to if they aren't the issue, using the gp's to check combustion temp seems like a great way to narrow things down just need someone to come up with the plugs so I can tap into the harness going to the UVC while it's running.
 

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