Anyone towing with a lifted truck?

[BLK PWRSTROKE]

I lifted my truck 6" with 37" tires this winter and I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to tow my 6 x 12 enclosed trailer come riding season.

Completely stock, I used a 4" drop hitch to keep my trailer level. With the change in lift and tire size, I estimate my truck is now 8.75" higher. That would mean I need a 12.75" drop hitch! I have not seen any out there longer than 9". Does anyone make a 13" drop hitch that will hold at least 4,000/400? Or do I need to start looking for a custom fabricator?

 

[CAREYBO]

CUSTOM FABRICATOR, IT WILL NEED TWO SUPPORT STRUTS THAT TAPER OUT FROM THE BALL AREA, UP AND OUT TO THE FRAME WITH HEIMS AT EITHER ENDS. THE HEIMS WILL BE FOR QUICK REMOVAL WHEN REMOVING THE WHOLE STINGER FOR NON-TOWING.

 

[BLK PWRSTROKE]

CUSTOM FABRICATOR, IT WILL NEED TWO SUPPORT STRUTS THAT TAPER OUT FROM THE BALL AREA, UP AND OUT TO THE FRAME WITH HEIMS AT EITHER END

I assume you have done the research here seeing your avatar.

Question then for ya... I see 12" and 14" drop hitches for sale real cheap on ebay with 500TW/5,000GTW. But that's hard to believe considering their 2" drop hitches carry the same max 500TW/5,000GTW. Does this sound right? Or is a fabricator the only answer?

 

[patrickc]

I tow stuff quite frequently with my truck. I use a 10" drop receiver that's rated for 500TW/5,000GTW and have never had any problems with it. I have had 7500lbs on that receiver without any problems. (truck on a tandem car trailer)

My mistake I just looked at my drop receiver and it is actually rated for 750TW and 7,500GTW. (or at least that's what it says stamped right in the steel!) I bought it at the local trailer dealer.

 

[Tail_Gunner]

There are some Class V recievers available that have a normal towing capacity of something like 12,000 lbs. Now Reese, for one, has a "drop bumper" hitch where the tube of the reciever hangs down lower (more drop) than a normal reciever. Now combine that with a ball mount that has a deep drop, and you should be equiped for trailers larger than you've already mentioned.

Now in case you missed it, I said it is a Class V (5) receiver. Most of the recievers you see around are Class III or IV which use a ball mount with a 2" square shank. A Class V has a 2 1/2" ball mount shank. So the hardware is much heavier than what you're used to seeing.

 

[bushpilot]

I needed a full 8" of drop for my trailer to ride level...i COULD NOT
find any hitch that met or exceeded my trailer capacity...UNTIL
i looked at RAPID HITCH

Rapid Hitch is 100% billet, rated @ 10,000 lb. trailer GVWR
and 1,500 lb. tongue weight...and thats in a 10" drop (their max).

all the reese CRAP that you can buy any place else was limited to
5k/500 (trailer/tongue lbs)

 

[BLK PWRSTROKE]

Awesome guys, thanks for the info!

 

[Buffs F-350]

I have a class 5 recever and it uses standered ball mounts. Any good trailer shop should be adle to supply you with a ball mount with enuff drop to handle a trailer that big. I have seen them at my local trailer shop with up to 15" drop.

 

[Tail_Gunner]

I have a class 5 recever and it uses standered ball mounts. Any good trailer shop should be adle to supply you with a ball mount with enuff drop to handle a trailer that big. I have seen them at my local trailer shop with up to 15" drop.

Two points I feel compelled to expand on.

1. Most class V hitches that I'm aware of, use a 2 1/2" square shank. HOWEVER, there are box shims/ adapters that will adapt a 2" shank to fit a 2 1/2" class V receiver. That being said, that brings us to point #2.

2. Make sure you follow the capacity of the lowest rated component in your system. A class IV receiver may be good for 10,000/1,000 capacity, but:

A 2" drop ball mount may be good for only 8,000/800 rating.

A 4" drop ball mount may only have a 6,500/650 rating because of the amount of drop and increased amount of leverage/stress placed on the receiver.

A 12" drop ball mount may only have a 4,000/400 rating, again due to the greater amount of leverage/stress placed on the receiver.

A 15" drop ball mount may only have a 3,000/300 rating, again due to the greater amount of leverage/stress placed on the receiver.

I'm sure by now, you're seeing the pattern.

Bottom line, your total capacity is based on the lowest rating of truck, receiver, ball mount and ball. If the receiver is rated for 10,000/1000, but the trailer ball is only rated for 3,500, then 3,500 is your maximum towable weight.

 

[bushpilot]

Bottom line, your total capacity is based on the lowest rating of truck, receiver, ball mount and ball. If the receiver is rated for 10,000/1000, but the trailer ball is only rated for 3,500, then 3,500 is your maximum towable weight.

EXACTLY....and that is why my TRAILER is the weakest link....
my DROP & BALL are rated at 10k/1500....the hitch is class 4
and my trailer is rated at 7k lbs.

i didnt wanna be pulling my 7k trailer w/ a 5000lb hitch...

rapid hitch was the ONLY one i could fine w/ enough drop (10")
that had a rating as good or better than the capacity of my trailer