ARB Ford 10.25 Full Float Air Locker

mike.germann

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I've heard these lockers are the best. Expensive, but well worth it. Anyone have any opinions? The link is below:

ARB Ford 10.25" Full Float ARB Air Locker




I have a Detroit locker in the front.

I have the Sterling 10.25" rear, with factory limited slip. I've gotten stuck with this truck before, and as ya'll can imagine, digging these trucks out ain't easy. Not to mention embarrassing. :doh: (I have the biggest truck in the area, so it's even more embarrassing if I get stuck).

If this means the difference between calling for help and driving away, I'm getting it. HOWEVER...I'd like to know how differently my truck is going to handle during daily driving. I off-road pretty hard when I do, but I only go out a couple times a month. Most of the times, I keep the truck on the street to race those Civic's with fart-cans. :lmao


So, if you have one or know someone who does, let me know how they do.
 
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bigrigr

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I used to go 4 wheelin with a guy who has these in his early bronco. They seem to be great lockers, but they do have a problem with the o-rings that seal the lockm mechanism inside the diff. Also the fitting that goes through the housing cna leak. other than that, lockers are way superior to limited-slips. Have you looked at the electric lockers as well? May solve the air leak problem, and no need for a compressor. They work the same as an open diff when they are unlocked, and their a tire barking, non-tight turning, sun-of-a-gun when locked. Great in a straight line!
 

mike.germann

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With the electric locker, can it still be locked in and out via in-cab switch? I really like the idea of having it selectable
 

mike.germann

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Also, quick question: I have a Detroit locker in the front. Without a switch to lock it in, when/how does it decide when to engage?

I was thinkin about this the other day, as I took my truck out back in 4wd and locked hubs to get it all moving. Got me curious.
 

JLDickmon

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Detroit lockers are spring loaded... when torque overcomes the springs, the mechanism ratchets... that's why they get that nasty "clackclackclackclack" noise going around corners
 

BJS

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yes electric lockers are selectable you'll have a toggle switch in the cab it'll energize the solenoid in the diff and lock them together.
 

Dogman

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I like "kiss" Keep it simple stupid. I had a ratchet type diff. in my exploder and Love it. You are full pos. all the time and it would click when turning. You did not have to remember to turn it on or off. It was less then 300 bucks and you use your old housing and parts. I'll see if I can find the info on it again.
 

mike.germann

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My Detroit in the front isn't too loud. How does it know when to lock up? Does it have anything to do with locking the manual hubs?
 

TexasA&M

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I run a full Detroit in the rear of my '86 Chevy and love it. It provides full traction all of the time, but is barely noticeable to me while driving. The longer the wheelbase, the better street manners these things have. Much more noticeable in a jeep than in a long bed truck.

As far as how they work, it has nothing to do with locking the hubs. The hubs are what connect your wheels to the shafts in the axle. The locker has some springs and pins in it that basically 'feel' the torque input. They are designed to be able to freewheel (good for around corners; the outside wheel will rotate faster than the inside wheel, but the inside wheel still has power), but once enough torque (throttle) is applied, they lock up and power goes to both wheels. In an open diff (or LSD), the power will eventually all go to the wheel with the least amount of traction (the path of least resistance). A locker won't let that happen.

ARBs are really nice, but they can sometimes be problematic. A Detroit is slightly stronger (from my understanding) and is MUCH simpler, which means less problems down the road.

I can go on and on about this, so just let me know if you want more info....
 

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