ball joints on an 01 4WD and axle seals

[BigDaveZJ]

Replaced mine yesterday, 111k on the truck. The balljoints themselves were actually pretty easy. The ball joints being pressed into the knuckle as opposed to the inner C like they are on my Jeep definitely helped out a bit there. The kit that I rented from AutoZone worked quite well too, except the little collars were about 1/2" too short to get the lower ball joints all the way out, but a few well placed plows with a BFH solved that.

Those axle seals though, what a PITA!!! Not a fan there at all. I couldn't imagine having to change a shaft or u-joint on one of those on the trail like we do in our Jeeps all the time. Do the non-ESOF models still have those seals or is there a way to eliminate them? I really could care less about keeping the ESOF to the hubs.

 

[bushpilot]

Replaced mine yesterday, 111k on the truck. The balljoints themselves were actually pretty easy. The ball joints being pressed into the knuckle as opposed to the inner C like they are on my Jeep definitely helped out a bit there. The kit that I rented from AutoZone worked quite well too, except the little collars were about 1/2" too short to get the lower ball joints all the way out, but a few well placed plows with a BFH solved that.

Those axle seals though, what a PITA!!! Not a fan there at all. I couldn't imagine having to change a shaft or u-joint on one of those on the trail like we do in our Jeeps all the time. Do the non-ESOF models still have those seals or is there a way to eliminate them? I really could care less about keeping the ESOF to the hubs.

damm ive been putting mine off & your NOT helping....ive got all the
parts 'cept for the outter axle dust shields...yeah all the 4x4 trucks
have those axle seals.

what did you have to do to get the NEW ball joints installed ?
the old ones just pressed out ? w/ the autozone tool ? my plan
is to run my truck some this morning (get the gear lube hot, change
the front / rear and install the new finn'd cover)

tomorrow is ball joint day...

 

[ktpauley]

Hey Bush;

Here is the procedure from the service manual.


Keith

 

[BigDaveZJ]

The ball joints themselves were actually plenty easy, it was just those damn seals. My recommendation would be to tear everything down, find another vehicle to go to your local shop and have them press the seals on, and then get back at it on the truck. Outside of those seals it's a very straightforward job and the AutoZone tool worked quite well except for not quite getting the bottom one out all the way.

 

[bushpilot]

KTP - Thanks for the info, I used it today PRYING the axle out...
interestingly enough the inner seal was torn, so it needed to be
replaced.

freekin' ball joints were a TOTAL pain to get out...balljoint press
i got from autozone was almost TOO small...and MAN even w/ 120psi
and im IR Impact hammer it was a SERIOUS chore to get the OLD
ball joints out !

I went w/ lifetime "DURALAST" ball joints from autozone...damm
angled zirk fitting hits the front ujoint...ill have to change it out
SOON for something that works.

truck rides and sounds MUCH BETTER !

also got the new fin'd rear cover on & changed the fluid in the front
and rear diffs...so far on TWO short/quick rides thru the neighborhood
i heard no chattering from the Ltd Slip (rear).

 

[BigDaveZJ]

bushpilot,
Mine came out pretty easy, my air gun was working pretty hard though, and I soaked EVERYTHING in PB Blaster to help break any rust or corrosion down.

 

[ktpauley]

Glad it helped. I got the service manual on CD from Helms. It helped when I replaced the front springs. Not a job I would want to do again in the driveway. Keith

 

[bushpilot]

yeah the pb blaster (3 in 1 oil) would have been good...
i didnt use that til late in the game...im tellin' ya their were
some choice words spoken.

I only did the BAD side (passenger)...Im sure it wont take
me nearly as long to do the drivers side...

i had a problem getting the carrier/knuckle off i pounded and
pounded on the balljoints (thread) and that thing would
NOT drop loose...the pitman arm puller i has wasnt quite
big (wide) enough to get around the knuckle @ the lower
ball joint...i finally gave it some GENTLE taps w/ the hammer &
FINALLY got the ball joints/knuckle to pop loose.

that has got to be the sweetest sound when youre workin
on this stuff & making little if any progress and all of a sudden
PING the stuff pops loose

 

[DaveBen]

Bush and others; when you are trying to get the ball joints out of the tapered hole, do not pound on the threaded part. Hit the side of the hole and the ball joint will fall out. Old trick.

Dave

 

[bushpilot]

Bush and others; when you are trying to get the ball joints out of the tapered hole, do not pound on the threaded part. Hit the side of the hole and the ball joint will fall out. Old trick.

Dave

good tip ! i tried that too, not enough probably !

i sure was missing my 20ton press...when we moved from
virginia to houston i gave it to a friend <who owns his own shop>...

he's helped me alot in the past...and BOY was i wishing i still had
that thing yesterday (gave 'em my parts washer too).

all in all its REALLY not a tough job to do...and certainly not
worth paying a dealer 400, much less the 800+ that some have
reportedly been charged.

the hardest part is getting the old ball joints out....beyond that
the job is a cake walk (it helps to have the 1" and larger size
tools needed to remove the nuts on the ball joints....but again
@ 400 bucks PLUS its easy to justify the cost of a few tools.

i suspect it wouldnt take me more than 1.5 hrs to do the
drivers side (easier cause the axle isnt as long or heavy too),
plus i now know not to be so gentle getting the stuff apart