Generally enhances the whistle sound of the turbo,I like the foil delete as the aluminumwhat advantage is there in the foil delete?
Hey Paul could you also post the pics and details here so we don't have to get dirty
**********************************paulkeith said:did the CCV reroute with parts from home depot. 10' of 3/4" ID tube, a hose barb, and 3" to 3" pvc coupling (4" OD). ran the hose down the frame rail to about the back of the cab on the driver's side.
pulled the intercooler and washed it out with simple green and very hot water, repeated that 3 times. stood it on its end for about 2 hours with a shop vac pulling on the bottom pipe. the intercooler holds right at 5 gallons, if anyone was wondering.... I also pulled off all of the piping and boots and cleaned all the oil out of them.
also did the foil delete on the hot side intercooler pipe. pulled the foil off by hand, and then soaked the remaining fiberglass insulation and adhesive with goo gone spray gel, then scraped it off with a razorblade. did made a pretty noticeable difference in turbo noise...but the good kind :
I'm doing the AIH delete when my boost fitting/plug gets in tomorrow, along with my dipricol boost and pyro and a-pillar pod. hopefully I will have the f5 chip in before the week is out, looking at stock/hi idle/ 40t /80e/ 120r/ 140ag/ lope
just had to share. happy to answer any questions.
paulkeith said:in response to question about foil delete:
it was still pretty time consuming. I got a razorblade scraper thing (for painting) and used that. It's also pretty messy, but all said and done...maybe an hour?
i just grabbed what i could by hand and pulled it off, which removed all of the foil but not the glass insulation. then i just went to town with the razor until it was mostly just adhesive left, then soaked the remainder with the goo gone, and then scraped that off, then did one more round of googone and wiped it claen.
you might be better off with a stiffer scraper than a razor, but even the razor scratched the pipe....if you're worried about that.
paulkeith said:Well, i finished installing my dipricol gauges and pillar pod today. took about 3 hours, moving slow. drilled, tapped, and installed the pyro, ran the wires through the firewall. I used the cheater dipricol harness with the dimmers already built in.
here you can see the dimmers. left them out so i could get them tuned in, i'll tuck them back at some point.
through the firewall (drilled my own hole, put a grommet in after pic
the defoiled pipe:
the boost gauge isnt hooked up yet pending arrival of or pdp/post office finding my aih plug/boost fitting. i'll get some nighttime pics of the gauges at some point. I bought the F5 today, got nostart/stock/hiidle/40/80/120/140agg w/ lope
enjoy. let me know if you have any questions.
paulkeith said:in response to posted picture of in progress foil removal:
hah, that could be a picture of my garage on sunday...
yeah, it gets pretty nasty. but...i was cruising in the left lane with the windows down up against the concrete median on the way to work today, and hearing that extra whine made it worth it :Thumbup:
also, just fyi, no chip with stock exhaust straightpiped and no load, i saw no EGT's higher than about 1050, on the onramp doing about 0-85mph at WOT and for the rest of my interstate cruise.
paulkeith said:some reasoning for CCV and foil delete:
the stock ccv system routes the crankcase vapors into the intake just upstream of the turbo. it vents oily vapor into the turbo and on through the pipes to the intercooler. oil residue covering the air to air heat exchanger that is your intercooler will significantly reduce its efficiency in cooling the charge air. rerouting the vent gas to atmosphere (like every other diesel ever) eliminates the source of oil into the intercooler, and then...you clean it out.
honestly its probably more peace of mind than anything else, and hey...it gave me a reason to spend a few hours under the hood.
apparently the foil was added to the hot intercooler pipe on 99.5+ due to complaints about turbo noise. i've read that its only purpose was sound insulation. in retrospect, i feel like it may have served some purpose to protect the intercooler pipe from heat from the driver's exh manifold? maybe? just brainstorming.
paulkeith said:AIH delete and pyro drilling pointers:
I think the 99's also had a different compressor wheel, similar to the wickedwheel you can buy. this is most of the difference as i understand it.
For the pyro hole, I just started with a small bit ...5/32 or something like that, and then moved up. If you go slow so that you don't slam the bit into the manifold when it punches through, you wont get that many shavings in there. most of them were on my face/arm. I've also heard mixed opinions that it just doesn't matter either way and it wont really hurt the turbo. I've also heard many people do the grease thing to hold the shavings as bigpete mentioned.
welp, i got my aih delete finished up last night. The postal suckvice lost my package with the plug and code elim, so i decided i'd just make my own plug. I read so many posts of people with the code eliminator that said they still had the code that i gave up on that too. I'll probably just return the stuff if it ever shows, and if it doesn't i talked it over with the vendor and we'll pursue the insurance on the package.
step 1. remove the hot and ground wire from the existing air intake heater (AIH), and remove the AIH from the intake pipe. I just used channel locks since i didn't have an eleventygabillion mm socket around. Follow the hot wire back to the solenoid, and remove ONLY that wire from that terminal on the solenoid. Be careful when you take the nut off of the post, as there is a washer that will commit suicide into your intake valley. Mine will now live permanently under my hpop. :shrug: Follow the ground back to its mounting point on the block and back that nut off and remove the wire. On mine the whole stud came out of the block, so i had to separate the nut and stud off the truck and then reinstall it. no biggie.
in this pic you can see the ground wire just near the AIH location.
next, take your 94-01 ram diesel drain plug (just 22mm x 1.5 plug, has a 3/8" square drive....you could probably use anything with 22mmx1.5)
and screw it into the AIH location. If this is all you're doing, you're done here.
i wanted mine to double as a boost fitting though, so i drilled the center of the plug out to 21/64 or whatever the 1/8" NPT tap's required drill bit was. because of the design of the plug, the 3/8" square drive is a little bigger than the hole you drilled, so there is no meat to tap at the top of the plug. i grabbed my uni-bit (greatest single tool of all time, ever, period, end of discussion...) and hogged out the top of the hole to about 1/2" which then let me tap the 21/64" hole a little further down. because of this the brass fitting when tight sat almost flush with the surface of the plug itself. Just for overkill i filled in inbetween the brass fitting and plug with epoxy.
I threw it into the intake with the supplied rubber coated metal washer that came with the plug, and tightened her up with my channel locks again, since the plug is round and the tapping eliminated the 3/8" square drive hole. then i just ran the air line and tightened her up.
just a vent, i chased this damn drain plug all over atlanta. 1 advanced auto in cobb county, out of stock. next, vatozone down on bankhead, out of stock but their next store down on MLK has 8. that store didn't have em either, and sent me to an oreilly's autoparts further up MLK....AH!!. they tried to sell me the wrong part because when i said "six cylinder turbo diesel" she took that to mean v-6....but i just saw the plug i needed hanging on the rack, so in retrospect i got lucky because when the vatozone lady called her she told her had several in stock, but was referring to the v6 plug. at 22mm, its not hard to miss. oreilly wanted $11.59 for it.
by the way, any kind of drilling operation into metal without a drill press sucks. a lot. i miss my dad's garage....
Also, to avoid the issue with the 3/8" square being bigger than the drilled hole for a 1/8" NPT, it would be easier to use a 1/4" NPT drillbit and tap and use a 1/8" to 3/8" NPT adapter for the brass fitting. This fitting was included with my dipricol boost gauge, but my local ace hardware was out of stock on their 1/4" NPT taps and home depot doesn't sell npt taps at all. I was getting friggin impatient so i made this work.
So....the boost gauge works. On the test drive(s) on the interstate uphill with the pedal on the floor the boost climbs quick to about 12 psi, and then continues up to about 18-19, and stops there. Is this correct? I was expecting a little higher maybe 22ish.
thanks. if you have any questions let me know.
paulkeith said:more info on the AIH delete and AIH itself:
just like everything else this post is about......proobably not a thing.
it blocks something like 20% of the cross sectional area of the intake, and is hardly ever ever used. plus it makes a convenient location for a boost fitting that isn't hindered by the map sensor and doesn't use t fitting and splicing etc, or require you to drill into your stock parts.
about the AIH
"To reduce white smoke during long idle periods at low ambient temperatures, the PCM will activate the intake air heater. Specific conditions must be present before the heater is activated: "
ambient temperature must be below 0 deg C (32 deg F)
engine oil temperature must be below 55 deg C (131 deg F)
vehicle power must be between 11.8 and 15 volts
parking brake must be applied on manual transmission vehicles
the transmission must be on park or neutral on automatic transmission vehicles
glow plugs must be off
apparently when the computer does its check, it just looks for the resistance of the AIH... You could check the ohms of the heater and wire one in there. I've read you need to use a 470 ohm 1 watt . If the code doesn't throw a CEL, i dont care
alot of the diesel pages sell a P0541 code eliminator, which is what i've bought. i also read a lot of posts by people saying they still had the code with the "eliminator" in place. its also not a plug, as the AIH had a post with nuts and ring terminals.
will you hear it more coming out of the exhaust or just mainly under the hood?