CCV mod with pictures

[jvencius]

Step 1: Gather the required supplies. I used the scrap piece of 4” exhaust pipe from my MBRP kit, Rustoleum primer/paint, and the stock hose clamps/intake tubing from my Tymar filter kit. Note, unlike most of my other automotive projects, there was no beer involved in this one since I did the work at the fire station and possession of any kind of alcohol is prohibited there. Besides, had I been drinking while doing this job, it would have taken four times as long, I probably would have gotten hurt, and the job would not have been not done nearly as well. I ended up not using the hose clamps pictured since the stock ones were still in fine shape and fit well.

 

[jvencius]

Step 2: Remove the driver’s-side battery (a ¼” drive ratchet with a short extension and a deep-well 8 mm socket works well) and as much of the intake/air filter snorkel as you can. Since I have the Tymar intake, I removed the battery and the canister filter. I also took the time to install an electrical-heater blanket on both batteries, since it has been known to get cold where I live and I got tired of having the heater wedged in place and not neatly attached.

 

[powerboatr]

i think some pictures are missing?????

you didnt cut off a finger did you?
how far did you run the hose?

 

[jvencius]

Step 3: Using the same ¼” drive ratchet/extension/8mm deep-well socket you used on the battery, unbolt the CCV inlet housing (I’m not sure exactly what to call it) from the bracket. Also, if you haven’t previously relocated the stock CCV, do it at this time. I used a 10’ length of ¾” heater hose, two hose clamps, and a fistful of zip-ties to move the CCV on my truck. I hose-clamped the hose to the elbow on the factory CCV (having flipped the CCV cover end-for-end on the valve cover) then routed the hose over the steering shaft, down along the firewall, down the driver’s-side frame rail (zip-tying it in place along the way) and then terminated it just forward of the transfer-case skid plate. The hose points down and is cut off ~1” below the bottom of the frame rail. International has a nice metal CCV tube that bolts to the engine, but it costs ~$40 and looks to be a NIGHTMARE to install b/c of limited clearance between the engine and the firewall. I like my solution (it’s not my original idea, though) since it’s $30 cheaper and took a lot less time to install.

 

[jvencius]

Step 4: Cut a piece of 4” exhaust piping (as previously written, I used some scrap I had on hand, but most exhaust shops should have some you can get cheaply, if not for free) to 3 ½” long. With a half-round file, smooth the inside and outside edges of the cut to make sure there aren’t any chips or loose pieces that could come loose and get sucked into the compressor side of the turbo. I painted the pipe (and the Tymar elbow) with some Rustoleum primer/flat black paint just to look spiffy, but bare metal would work just as well.

 

[jvencius]

Step 5: This step isn’t necessary, but I removed the driver’s side intercooler tube and stripped off the insulating wrap. IIRC, it took a 3/8” ratchet and 11 mm deep socket to get the clamps un-clamped. Since it was insulated for noise, not heat control, I figured that by removing the insulation I could gain a small amount of room in the engine compartment, plus it looks nicer. While the tube was off, I sprayed out the inside with brake cleaner to remove the oil residue from the stock CCV. It is rather impressive how much the stock IC tube is mashed/flattened to clear stuff in the engine compartment and it's no wonder why a Banks/Hypermax/DPP kit flows so much better.

 

[jvencius]

Step 6: Take the piece of 4” exhaust pipe you previously cut to a length of 3.5”, press it into the turbo inlet pipe, and then snug, but not completely tighten, the hose clamp on the factory rubber tube.

 

[jvencius]

Step 7: If you previously removed the intercooler tube, reinstall it at this point. With the insulation removed, there is a slight (but definitely noticeable) increase in VERY high-pitched whistle under medium- to hard acceleration but at low throttle or steady-speed conditions there is no difference in sound.

 

[jvencius]

Step 8: Reinstall the air filter and connection between the air filter and the location of the stock CCV inlet. Leave the clamps loose until the whole air intake is in place. Once the filter/intake is in place and all the hose-to-tube connections are properly seated, then you can tighten the hose clamps.

 

[jvencius]

Step 9: Reinstall the battery, then step back to admire your neat and tidy engine.