changing glowplugs

Ford_Forgotton

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So, I got recruited to help my buddy replace his glowplugs in his 97 PSD. Anything I should watch out for? I hear the valve cover is a !@!$@$ to get off on the right side? Special tools? Lots of beer?

Im not doing this for a few more weeks, but may as well get an idea for it now.
 

95_stroker

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Rumor has it that a couple of cans of SeaFoam, one straight in the filter cannister and one or two in a short tank, run through the old gal will loosen up any deposits on the GP's making them easier to remove. See my thread below about injectors, I will be doing GP's at the same time.
 

jharvey

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I'll be doing mine in a few weeks as well, here is my plan.....
2 cans of seafoam as stated above then lot's of KROIL for the top side. Also I believe having a couple of knuckles and some extensions makes getting the passenger side vc off easier.

John
 
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probear

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Once you break the glow plug loose, I've found a piece of shrink wrap tube to fit over the end of the glow plug will allow you to turn it real easy. It just have to be snug enough to be slightly forced over the end of the glow plug. Makes it real easy to install too.
 

Ford_Forgotton

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Soooo, would a RATTLEGUN be a good idea? I've seen where a rattle gun removed lugnuts that a BREAKER BAR would break off. Just enough to pop any deposits that are making removal difficult?
 

95_stroker

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I wouldnt use a pneumatic impact, you can break the tip of the GP off and then it falls into the chamber and then you remove the head, or........it breaks off in the hole and you are stuck. Go the SeaFoam route to loosen carbon deposits and plenty of Kroil or equivalent on the threads.
 

BJS

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I used a piece of 1/4" fuel tubing, The valve cover isn't near as bad as folks make it out to be but based on hwo easy my downpipe went in my engine is rather far forward or body back in relation to the frame.

While you're under there double check the wiring harnesses and the connectors too.
 

Renegade

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a lil tip on pass side valve cover removal that works great....

instead of trying the u-joint/socket extension to get to the lower back bolt near the heater box on 94-97 models, go at it with a regular socket & ratchet from the inner fenderwell in between the frame & plastic of the inner well.

Once your arm is snaked up in there its not very far away & very easy to get a ratchet on to loosen & remove with your fingers, the toughest part is the body postion you end up getting into. If you got big meaty arms you may find it a bit tough, so I got the wife to do it for me :D


Also the kroil is awesome - alot of guys I hear also (but havent tried) recommend Mercury PowerTune outboard engine/carbon cleaner works wonders on getting a carboned up GP out.

I've found that a good hard run with some high egt's for a bit will help clear up some crud on the tips also.

Cheers
 

Quadzilla

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I've found that using a 10mm deep well socket, with a swivel adapter has allowed me to get to the back bolt on both valve covers without too much trouble. Getting the passenger's side valve cover off once the bolts have been removed, requires a little contortion, however, since the AC housing gets in the way.
 

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