Question Clutch repair advice

FarmerCharlie

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I sure would appreciate some advice on my clutch problem:
Yesterday the clutch on my truck suddenly quit after I down-shifted to first to make a turn. After the turn the clutch would not activate to shift to second. I kept going, and made it home OK. I had to stop a couple of times, and was able to get going again by starting it in first gear. I could even carefully shift to fourth. This problem occurred suddenly; the clutch has never slipped or been hard to engage. The fluid reservoir was full, and the resistance of the pedal seems normal to me.

I had it towed to a shop to get an estimate. Today they called back and said I need a new clutch. Their estimate for replacing it with Ford parts was about $1500. I guess I don't understand how it would have failed so totally so suddenly with no symptoms and no noises.

I talked to a good friend who knows a lot more about trucks than I do, and he seemed to think there is a good chance the actual problem might be the slave cylinder. He thought that if the clutch were torn up, then I probably would not have been able to drive it.

So my dilemma is whether to let the original shop go ahead with the work or take it somewhere else for a second opinion. I sure would appreciate any opinions before I go to the shop to talk with them tomorrow.

Thanks,
Charlie
......................................................................................................
Details on truck:
F350 DUALLY 4X4 7.3L PWRSTK DIESEL
About 150,000 miles. It has four forward gears plus a super low and overdrive.
VIN: 1fdwx37f8yec75854
 

BIG JOE

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By what you've described.. I'd say the slave cylinder, but get a second opinion.

However, the OEM, stock, clutch fork and throwout bearing is REAL chincy. (whole clutch assembly really) With 150K on it, if it's the original clutch.. yer Dang lucky you've made it this far.

1K to 1500 is about what yul pay to have it done.. but if you do replace it.. you might think about a Cleavland or Luk clutch.. a REAL clutch assembly.

You could save sum bucks by getting yer own parts.. and just pay someone the labor ?

Joe
 

nswsparky

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I changed my clutch last summer myself. It was a pain, the transmission and t-case weigh a good 300lbs. The Clutch and pressure plate cost $500 on their own. All the shops I went to wanted about $500 just to pull and install the transmission.

According to my manuals the pressure plate self adjusts as the clutch wears so it might be totally worn and it has just been adjusting properly. But if all the friction material had worn off you still would have been able to disengage the clutch. When a clutch goes, it slips not stays engaged. The clutch lines are plastic going to the slave cylinder maybe its loosing pressure somewhere between the master to the slave. The slave pulls easily just twist it a quarter turn and it pulls out of the bell housing you could pull it and just take a look at it. Just don't press the clutch petal with the slave out of the bell housing that could blow the slave.
 

xtrahappy

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Well, when my master cylinder went out. The pedal stayed on the floor. I drove it on home, just got RPM`s right to shift. I fixed that myself by replaceing master and slave for lil over $100 dollors.
When the clutch it self went. It had slipped a couple times in high gear, when gas pedal was mashed real hard. Then at a redlight couple days latter. Normal takeoff went to shift to next gear release pedal, engine just raced. No Go! It didn`t pull no more. That was 1 grand, with me pulling and replacing. (that kit had flywheel, with clutch, plate and bearing)
Have fun..
 

hawkdriver

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Having been through this twice I would recommend you get the parts yourself (using a good aftermarket brand as named above) and have someone do the labor for you. It ran me $600 for the labor a few years ago down here in Enterprise. Should be close to that up where you are in Auburn. Probably cheaper towards Monkey Town. Dieselsite (site sponsor here) has a good deal on the the flywheel and entire clutch assembly.

http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=123

Good luck!
 
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FarmerCharlie

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Thanks for the suggestions. Does the clutch have an inspection plate? And would it be reasonable for me to ask the mechanic to show me how he can tell the clutch is bad? I sure would like to know for sure while I can still drive it to a different shop if I want to.

One more question: Is driving short distances by starting in first and carefully shifting without the clutch likely doing any damage?
 
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hawkdriver

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You can peek in the hole for the slave cylinder a little. Maybe with a small inspection mirror and a flashlight you could see what's up inside. If his clutch pedal feels normal then that almost rules out the entire actuating system and leaves only the clutch/pressure plate assembly (maybe the clutch release arm broke right where the throwout bearing mounts).
 

BIG JOE

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Thanks for the suggestions. Does the clutch have an inspection plate? And would it be reasonable for me to ask the mechanic to show me how he can tell the clutch is bad? I sure would like to know for sure while I can still drive it to a different shop if I want to.

*One more question: Is driving short distances by starting in first and carefully shifting without the clutch likely doing any damage?

*Not really. Starting it In gear isn't good on the Starter, but a coupla times shouldn't hurt.

I don't remember there being a way to see the clutch while it is in the vehicle.

Me niether ?

You can peek in the hole for the slave cylinder a little. Maybe with a small inspection mirror and a flashlight you could see what's up inside. If his clutch pedal feels normal then that almost rules out the entire actuating system and leaves only the clutch/pressure plate assembly *[(maybe the clutch release arm broke right where the throwout bearing mounts)].

* I'd betcha.. that's what has happened.

Joe

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