Clutch Replacement

bbressler

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Ordered a new clutch on Tuesday morning...got it Wednesday!:D Went with a Valair stock replacement.

So, this is my first time to replace a clutch, and helpful tips anyone can offer? Do we have a write-up somewhere? I plan to tear into this on Saturday evening and all day Sunday.

Anything I can do to get started (won't have jack until Sat..)?
 

DaveBen

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Get a manual for your truck. It will save you hours of time changing the clutch. Remove the seat and cover over the shifter. Good Luck.

Dave
 

Crumm

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Anything I can do to get started (won't have jack until Sat..)?
You can pull the drive-lines and unhook about everything else so when you get the jack all you have to do is unbolt the cross-member and pull the bell-housing bolts.

Here is a post from another thread I started a while back that might be some help:


It's a simple job. just a pain to get the tranny in and out. oh yeah take out the shifter(i pulled the rubber boot up and unbolted it) and on the top-passenger side of the tranny there is a bolt. the easiest way I found to take this bolt out is from the topside. and I had to unbolt my exhaust from the downpipe so i could move the downpipe around just enough to get the bolt on that side of the tranny out. the crossmember is easy you should be able to figure that out. you, of course, need to take out the driveshaft before you take out the tranny. oh and make sure you put the throwout bearing in the right way when you put the tranny back in. when you put it in make sure the metal piece that spins on the plastic piece goes towards the flywheel. i put mine in backwards the first time and had to take the tranny back out and turn it around. (thats when the transmission jack broke on me.) that tranny is very heavy with 2 guys putting it in with very little help from a jack. i hope this helps a little. if you have anymore questions just ask
 

Patrick Feeley

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Remove the shifter stub from the tranny. It makes getting the tranny out a lot easier. Use a tranny jack. I would replace the clutch release lever while your in there (only about $20). My tip of the day: Not sure if you are removing the flywheel or not, but if you have some extra bolts of the correct size and pitch, saw the heads off to use them as temporary dowls to slide the flywheel on while you put the regular flywheel bolts in. Once you gate a couple of normal bolts in you can remove the temporary dowels (the flywheel is too heavy to try and hold up with one hand!). Cheers!
 

strokin'_tatsch

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the release lever is what your slave cylinder rod pushes that goes through the bell housing on the drivers side and slides the throwout bearing. definitely replace the release lever. also inspect the cone that the throwout bearing rides on to make sure the throwout bearing slides smoothly. make sure to grease the cone and throwout bearing well. get the flywheel resurfaced and watch out b/c the flywheel is very heavy when your under the truck.

Definetly take the shifter stub out of the tranny. makes things much easier on you. it has 4 bolts that hold it in. take out the 4 bolts and give it a good little tug and the shifter ball will pop out and you can cover the top with a rag and tape or whatever you choose.

for now you can take out the slave cylinder(twists out of the mounting bracket on driver side bell housing), disconnect the cat pipe to give yourself a little more room, take out the driveshaft which has 4 T45 torx bolts IIRC at each u-joint holding it in and then 2 bolts for the carrier bearing. loosen the top bolts of the crossmember where it bolts to the top of the frame rail(no need to take out completely, just loosen so you can move it enough to get the bottom of the crossmember out when you unbolt it). no you can go ahead and take out the 2 top tranny bolts since the crossmember is still holding the tranny up and the 2 top bolts are the hardest and take the longest to get out. you may find them easier to get out from inside the cab through the shifter hole.

When you put the clutch in you don't want anything on the flywheel, clutch disc, or pressure plate surface so clean it all very well with carb cleaner as you put it in. put in the flywheel then clean the surface, before you put in the clutch plate clean each side well and only handle it by touching the inner hub of the disc, put in the clutch disc with clutch alignment tool then clean the surface of the pressure plate that would touch the clutch well and put in the pressure plate, bolt the pressure plate down and take out the clutch alignment tool. put the throwout bearing on the bearing retainer(the cone on the shaft of the tranny) with grease to make sure it slides easily and attach the release lever to the throwout bearing and the ball on the bell housing. now your ready to wrestle that tranny back in the truck.

i would/did change the tranny fluid to amsoil synthetic atf. now after this last clutch swap i am now using royal purple max atf. both are good for these transmissions. hope this helps!!!
 

bbressler

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Got this done last night....

Took two of us about 7 hours total.

We found a good way to get the two top tranny bolts out...one of us under the truck, the other on top, having the top guy guide the socket onto the bolt and hold it there, while the person under the truck does then wrenching.

I'm glad to get rid of the DMFW setup, but it didn't fix my rough idle problem like I was hoping...
 

strokin'_tatsch

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is your rough idle coming from your 10k mod? LoL. your IPR may be causing the truck to idle a little rough. i just put a good used IPR in mine the other day and now it lopes pretty good at idle. just my .02
 

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