coolant leak

[jocephus]

i have a 2001 f250 sd 7.3l man 6spd 4x4. It seems to be leaking from the lower radiator hose elbow that comes off of the engine it looks to be coming from the flange that bolts the two elbows together . my question is if there is a gasket on this flange or if the bolts could just need tightening, any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[bigrigr]

make sure you don't have coolant coming out of the water pump weep hole,or somwhere above, water pumps are common on these trucks.

 

[02stroker]

Installing a coolant filter, like the one sold at Dieselsite.com, is a great way to extend waterpump life. Gets all the grit and crud out of the system that wears out you'r water pump.

 

[BIG JOE]

i have a 2001 f250 sd 7.3l man 6spd 4x4. It seems to be leaking from the lower radiator hose elbow that comes off of the engine it looks to be coming from the flange that bolts the two elbows together . my question is if there is a gasket on this flange or if the bolts could just need tightening, any help would be greatly appreciated.

FWIW ? I have a 2K and it had the same leak you desribe.. drip'n off the lower hose, at the elbow.

I'd bet it's the Water Pump going south on ya. Mine did, at 65K. (kind of a "common thing" with these 99 and up 7.3s, like bigrigr sez)

The coolant weaps from the weap hole, migrates to the hose, runs down the hose.. drips off the elbow. You can check the weap hole out with a flex mirror and Good Lighting or do a pressure check.

And like 02 stroker sez: install a coolant filter. If you do (?) yul No kid'n see.. and Fully Understand why the WP took a dump.. when you see the Garbage that is (was) flowing through yer cooling system and took out the WP bushing/seal.

Joe

 

[trackspeeder]

i have a 2001 f250 sd 7.3l man 6spd 4x4. It seems to be leaking from the lower radiator hose elbow that comes off of the engine it looks to be coming from the flange that bolts the two elbows together . my question is if there is a gasket on this flange or if the bolts could just need tightening, any help would be greatly appreciated.

There is an O ring between the two parts. Mine leaks too. Maybe I will fix it someday.

 

[bump_r]

Sunday afternoon I was tooling along the 4-lane at posted 65 mph (for cops but 73 for everyone) else with the A/C on but temp selector a smidge warm. The idea was to get dry warm air to counteract the cold damp I came in from. Anywho, my feet started to cool off and I noticed the temp gauge nudging to the red zone. I got the thing off the road and the temp gauge needle bounced to and from the "normal" range as I limped a very short distance to a safe spot (presumable as the remaining coolant sloshed around on and off the sending unit). The front of the engine was wet and still steaming. I called AAA, no sense dinking around.

I let it sit until this afternoon, when I started pouring water into the reservoir Coolant (not clear water, good green coolant, suggesting I had SOME still in there and that I saved it) started to gush out from under and above the crank pulley. I didn't have a mirror and didn't want to get all funky just yet, so here I am. From what I've read here, I've toasted the water pump. I plan to get an OE one from Ford, unless there is a significant savings and positive testimonials of NAPA replacements (they remans for $120, and two new ones; one for $170, one for $320 ). Has anyone had good results with their remans or either of the new ones? Is the Ford one that much more? How much of a drag is it to change? - it looks pretty straightforward at first glance.

edit, I found this - great stuff.

I moved this here from the 94'-97' forum since yours is a 02'.

Takes an hour or two.

Here are the instructions for my 96'. Your 02' should be close to the same.

1. Drain the engine cooling system.
2. Remove the upper radiator hose clamps and upper radiator hose.
3. Disconnect the radiator coolant recovery reservoir hose at radiator.
4. Remove the fan and clutch assembly using a Fan Clutch Nut Wrench. Set the fan and clutch assembly in the fan shroud.
5. Remove the fan shroud screws. (2 ea.)
6. Remove the fan shroud, fan and clutch assembly.
7. Loosen the four water pump pulley bolts.
8. Remove the drive belt.
9. Remove the water pump pulley bolts and water pump pulley.
10. Disconnect the engine coolant temperature sensor.
11. Disconnect the heater hose and clamp from the water pump.
12. Remove the water pump inlet bolts and water pump inlet.
13. Remove the water pump bolts. These bolts are different lengths. There are nine bolts and three different lengths. Remember where they go.
14. Remove water pump and water pump housing gasket.
15. Clean gasket surfaces.

Installation
1. Install the water pump and water pump-housing gasket. Put a little grease on the gasket to help hold it in place.
2. Install the water pump bolts, torque to 15 ft/lbs.
3. Install the water pump inlet and bolts, tighten bolts to 15 ft/lbs.
4. Install the heater hose and clamp to the water pump.
5. Connect the engine coolant temperature sensor.
6. Install the water pump pulley and start the water pump pulley bolts.
7. Install the drive belt.
8. Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 12-18 ft/lbs.
9. Install the fan shroud, and fan and clutch assembly.
10. Install the fan shroud screws
11. Install the fan and clutch assembly.
12.Install the radiator coolant recovery reservoir hose to the radiator.
13. Install the upper radiator hose and clamps.
14. Refill and bleed the engine cooling system.

Thanks in advance,

Bob

 

[BJS]

Bob, From what I've seen in OBS trucks and on the SD trucks is that the OE pump lasts just as long as the aftermarket ones, the only life extender is to put a coolant filter on there.

 

[iracemine]

check on a International pump costs. will it work? id bet better and cheeper.

 

[bump_r]

Thanks, I'll keep NAPA in the running and check with my International dealer - good info!