Hey Dale
Here is the how to for the CC switches that I saved from a post by "Lovelearn" over at the other place.
The two cruise control switches on our horn pads connect to only 3 wires yet those 3 wires also control our horn. +12V supplied to the horn switch is shared by both cruise control switches. Within the switch packages, resistors add 120 ohms to call for the Coast function, 680 ohms to call for the Set/Accelerate function and 2200 ohms to call for the Resume function. Differential resistance allows reusing identical wire connection combinations to send different instructions. While it wouldn't appear tidy, someone could use 5 bicycle horn button switches or similar momentary contact switches with some dropping resistors to make their own complete cruise control switch bank. Actually, only two momentary contact button switches would be enough give you 99% of the cruise utility. An ON button and a SET button would serve as a minimal control center. Why do you need an extra OFF button anyway? Tap the brake switch and it's off. Resume and Coast are nice to have, but they aren't really needed to set cruise any time you want. Also I encountered two completely interchangeable cruise ready horn pads that have non interchangeable connector plugs. One plug is oval, larger and has wider pin connection spacing. The other is smaller, rectangular, with narrower pin connection spacing. Even if you carve away enough plastic to allow one to slide into the other's socket, the pin spacing would prevent interchange. I described in another thread how to make $0.00 adapters to enable that interchange. I've run that for over 2,000 miles now using a borrowed horn pad and it works fine.
Rarely one of these cruise switches stops making connections when its button is pressed. These switches are NOT intended to be disassembled and restored to operation in the field. Your friendly Ford dealership would simply replace the entire horn pad assembly and submit to you a bill for over $100. I want to help those who face this situation but would rather spend the time required to identify which switch has failed, then disassemble, repair, and reassemble it without buying a replacement from a dealership or bone yard.
Remove the horn pad by pulling up toward the driver's seated position. Under the detached pad you will see 3 wires entering a connector plug. That plug is secured into it's mating socket by a side latch. Squeeze the latch toward the plug and pull the plug free from the steering wheel. Carry the pad to your well lighted table where you'll need an ohm meter, torx T15 driver, and small blade type screw driver for use as a pry tool.
Use the ohm meter to test continuity between these 3 plug wire connections while pressing each button. 3 wire combinations times 5 buttons = 15 tests at maximum. Unless you're finger control is good, you'll find this testing easier if you either have someone help you during testing or clamp the plug so it isn't pushed away by the meter probes' pressure. You don't need to track what electrical connection each switch makes. You only need to locate which switch which has failed. Let's assume you found a switch which makes no electrical change between any connection combination when pressed. That failure indicates that switch has failed and needs to be repaired. If you experience a switch failure, it will almost certainly only be one rather than two switches because it's highly unlikely that two switches will fail simultaneously.
Remove three torx T15 screws holding the metal switch support frame to the horn pad. Each switch assembly has a plastic spring latch holding it to the metal support frame. Squeeze and release the switch assemblies from the metal frame. Set the pad, metal support frame and 3 screws aside for later reassembly.
Next disassemble ONLY the switch assembly containing the offending switch. The rocker buttons are secured into the sides of the switch case by two short pivot pins. Gently pry the front switch frame side out just enough to allow one of the captured rocker button pivot pins to be pulled forward from it's bore hole. Then do the other side. When they are both released, the rocker button can be pulled out. Removing the rocker button will reveal a flexible plastic pad. Pull that out. I lifted an edge with a small screw driver, but finger nails could work as well. Just don't damage switch parts. Now you'll see the tops of the small silver metal appearing springy bridge connectors. When you press on a cruise rocker switch, one of these springy bridge connectors allows its rear center section to spring down to temporarily form an electrical bridge connection between two projecting contacts below it.
To access that rear area, you must first remove the lower switch body from the enclosing plastic case. There are 4 little plastic latches holding the lower switch body into the case. They are visible at side openings in the switch case. These latches are projections from the switch body. You must push each of them inward and toward the open case front. Gentle like Charmin, you don't want to break these little guys. When all four are released, you can push your lower switch body out of the case. Release the wires secured to the case near where they lead inside by pressing open the wire capture spring.
Next, remove the springy switch bridge connector. Do that by gently bending out either side capture clip until it can just slip free from its plastic capture post. Now, clean the bridge connector's back side. I used a pencil eraser. Check the rear connections. Perhaps one is bent down too much to allow the bridge connection to be made. What ever is needed to be changed, do it. Clean and reconfigure these metal parts by bending just a little more than is needed to barely connect when the button is pressed. After you reattach that formerly badly performing bridge connector spring, test its electrical function at the plug connectors. Make sure it's going to work before reassembly. When proven good, reassemble everything in reverse order. Make sure all those little latches lock into place when reassembling.
Writing this description took more time than making this field repair. If you paid someone to do this for you, I'd expect to pay for one hour's labor which could be a lot cheaper than some alternatives. By the time you drove to a bone yard and back, even if they gave you an replacement with no charge, repairing it yourself might be faster. When done, clean up the dust you deposited all over the kitchen table. Domestic peace to you all. Hope this helps someone.
This contribution was made possible through gracious action by Byron "Bbronco" assisted by
John "LoveLearn"
