I did block work at a machine shop here for 4 years.
I did a tone of IDI's and ran into water on almost all of them with a 3/32ths sleeve. I'd sleeve'm back to a std in about an hour and half.

1/8th inch walled sleeves took alittle longer.
We remanned a few PSD's. I had to sleeve the two back cylinders on one because wear was +.045 in one and +.053 in the other. We bored all our reman jobs so sleeved those and honed the others to a +.020(Rottler HP6A with diamond stones can do this skippy.)
The way I was taught to put sleeves in without failures is to make sure a shelf of original casting is left in bottom. Then a square cutting tool must go in an "flatten" the shelf, that way the angle left by the carbide bit isn't there. If it's not flattened the sleeve will want to slip down and push in possibly scoring a piston. And we always had to deck PSDs, every one of them had "firering wear", IDIs even worst.
I wasn't scared to sleeve anything unless it was cracked out the bottom of the cylinder. My method worked with no comebacks while I was there. If they are done right, sleeves work! I even sleeved an old "pop'n jonny" jug. That was a huge sleeve, thank goodnees for hydraulic presses!