Fd-4604?? Fd-4609??

dsonyay

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My owners manual for my 2008 Powerstroke says to use FD-4604 fuel filters. But online sellers show FD4609 as the proper fuel filter. What's the deal??

All the online sources I use show the 4604 as the proper filter for the 6.0 powerstroke.
 

ponyexpress94

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The owners manual is wrong. The same thing happened on my dad's 08 F250 at the first fuel filter service. We went by the manual and had an extra filter kit for my 6.0 liter on hand. As soon as we opened the engine mounted filter housing we knew something wasn't right, because the 6.4 filter was a completely different filter than the 6.0 liter. The FD-4609 is the one you need, that will have the correct engine mounted filter element and the HFCM filter element. By the way the HFCM filter on 6.4 liter trucks(on the driver's side framerail) uses the same filter as the HFCM on the 6.0 liter trucks.
I realize the filters needed for either the 6.0 or 6.4 come in pairs but it doesn't hurt to know the framerail filters interchange if you find yourself needing a HFCM filter in an emergency(due to bad fuel, gelling, etc.) and the closest parts house only has the kit needed for the other engine. Hope this clears up the confusion. ;tu
 
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dsonyay

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Ok thanks!!

When I change the filter under the chassis, do I need to remove the fuel lines from the filter housing? Seems like they need to come off to access the filter.

Any special instructions I need to know about??

Thanks!
David
 

DaveBen

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Go with the Owners Manual on the Filter part number. Online stores have been know to screw up!!!

Dave
 

dsonyay

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Dave-- Yeah, but this time the owners manual is WRONG.

That's aggravating.
 

2x6 bulldog

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Ok thanks!!

When I change the filter under the chassis, do I need to remove the fuel lines from the filter housing? Seems like they need to come off to access the filter.

Any special instructions I need to know about??

Thanks!
David

No don't need to remove fuel lines. Just unscrew filter housing cover.
But first get a small bucket a open the yellow water drain valve on the housing and then remove the upper fuel filter housing and let all the fuel out before removing lower housing. Otherwise get ready for a diesel shower.
Kevin
 

ponyexpress94

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The 4609 is correct and verified by my parts guy at my regular Ford Dealership Parts Counter.

You do not need to remover any fuel lines to access the filter.

Here's what I do on my truck.

Since you have to change both filters at the same time start with the engine mounted filter. Using the correct socket, I believe 36mm on the 08's and up, pop the cap loose but leave it resting in the housing. Next crawl under the truck with a catch pan that can hold approximately one gallon of fluid. On the 08's there is a small barbed fitting pointing straight down on the HFCM housing, try to find a piece of automotive tubing that slips on that fitting and is long enough to reach down into your catch can. This simply helps keep you, your truck, and your work area from being soaked in diesel fuel. Once this is ready turn the small plastic lever on the housing and you will begin draining the HFCM. After a minute or two the fuel will stop draining, or slow to a very slow drip. Since you popped the engine filter cap you will drain the fuel leading up to the engine as well, but this prevents it from trying to gush out when you remove the HFCM filter cap. Next, I like to stuff some small rags around the bottom of the HFCM housing to keep as much of the residual fuel off the frame as possible when I open the filter cap. Using a 36mm socket wrech and whatever combination of extensions and swivels necessary, loosen the filter housing cap and remove it. The filter is clipped in so it will come loose with the cap. Wiggle the cap and filter out through the tangle of fuel lines and wiring. Remove the old filter (it takes a good pull) and gasket ( a small pick or mini screwdriver works best) and clean the cap with a rag to check for cracks or any other damage that may cause trouble. Lightly coat the new cap o-ring with some clean engine oil (since you are probably doing fuel filters along with an oil change) and install it on the cap. The new filter pushes in until you hear a click and then you can snake the cap and filter back into the frame rail and to the HFCM housing. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO CROSSTHREAD THE FILTER CAP AS YOU REINSTALL IT IN THE HOUSING. You'll notice the filter cap has torque values printed on it and it's not a lot of torque, so you only need to seat it against the shoulder of the filter cap if you can't get a torque wrench in there. Too much torque repeatedly will crack the cap. Once installed, close your drain valve, remove your drain hose and drag your tools out. Next, remove the engine fuel filter and cap, remove the old filter and o-ring, clean and inspect the cap, install the new o-ring lightly oiled and the new filter (this one "clicks" into place as well). Reinstall the filter and cap on the engine filter housing with the same precautions as you did with the HFCM and you are done with the fuel filter service. To check the truck, I cycle the key approximately six times without starting the truck to activate the fuel pump and purge the air out of the lines. If you don't do this, the truck will stall and be hard to start. Once the truck is running, check to make sure you don't have any leaks and you are ready to hit the road. Good luck.;tu:clap:
 
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dsonyay

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Very nice write-up on changing the filters! I can't wait to get started. I'm so glad I won't have to remove the fuel lines. When I saw the plastic connectors attached to the end of the fuel lines, I thought, Oh geez, something I'll break in the name of routine maintenance. :)

Patrick-- on a side note, every couple of weeks I drain some of the fuel from the HFCM. Should I drain all of it, or just about 30 seconds worth like the manual suggests.

David
 

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