Hey guys, I could use a little help here, I already posted this over at fordexcursions.com but figured I'd try here. I have a 2000 Ford Excursion PSD, its got 124,000 , I'm the 2nd owner, its got a 60hp chip in it, otherwise its stock and in the last month its starting to had problems with not starting. It will run all day then I pull up my driveway which is rather steep and shut it off and for the 4th time since mid Aug it will not start. 1st time they replaced the CPS, a week later it did the same thing, then it was the exhaust backpressure sensor and they replaced the oil pressure regulater(I think thats what it was called). 2 weeks go by then it was the injector pressure sensor. Today it ran fine all day, went to leave this evening and nothing. Every time it will crank and crank but to no avail, it will start with ether but if I shut it off it will not start by itself again, it needs the ether. I find it really wierd that it always fails in my driveway(lucky?) which is like I said, rather steep(front end facing uphill), if I drift down to the flat road it makes no difference in starting. I changed the fuel filter on Mon, it gets changed every 2 oil changes, I'm sure this little fact is irelivant though. To be honest, I'm getting fed up with this truck, I've had it since Mar. I can accept something like the CPS going cause its one of those "known" things that go wrong but this is just week after week of problems. It always runs fine otherwise. I think I've covered everything, any help would be really great, I"m just wondering if this is normal to have sensor after sensor go out like this, sorry this is so long, thaks in advance--Kyle
help...strating issues
- Thread starter kgm423
- Start date
roosterdiesel
Earl needs B100
Welcome to SDD.com!
Ether?
DON'T do that again! You could have a big kaboom. The Glow plugs could ignite before you turn the starter over from my understanding.
What are temps where you live? I had starting issues awhile back, click on my username on this post and you can see all my posts
. Turned out to be my driver's side battery being bad, I had them checked at Napa. If you have original batteries it could be that. But it could also be the Glow Plug System. From my understanding the Ex's have a little different system. 
Do you ever notice white smoke on startup? What's your oil level?
Ether?
DON'T do that again! You could have a big kaboom. The Glow plugs could ignite before you turn the starter over from my understanding.What are temps where you live? I had starting issues awhile back, click on my username on this post and you can see all my posts
. Turned out to be my driver's side battery being bad, I had them checked at Napa. If you have original batteries it could be that. But it could also be the Glow Plug System. From my understanding the Ex's have a little different system. Do you ever notice white smoke on startup? What's your oil level?Step # 1 is to remove chip before any diagnostics.
A chip can set codes, such as IPR out/spec. Resulting in the replacement of good componennts.
The chip itself may cause problems, or being loose in the socket.
The fuel pump may be suspect, since you park nose up, maybe losing its prime, does it run quite a bit when first turning key on?
Check press. or park nose down.Very slight chance this is the problem.
They WILL start at low temps w/0 glow plugs.
Low batterys will cause probelems, you should see 150 - 200 RPM when cranking.
Usually some of the relays will chatter.
If you must absolutly start it, using ether, wait a full two minutes to ensure the G-plugs are shut off. The "on time" is independent of the WTS light.
This will also aid in starting with weak batts. since they would not have to supply both the G-plugs and starter, both being current hogs, there would not be enough left to operate the PCM/IDM.
Good Luck.
A chip can set codes, such as IPR out/spec. Resulting in the replacement of good componennts.
The chip itself may cause problems, or being loose in the socket.
The fuel pump may be suspect, since you park nose up, maybe losing its prime, does it run quite a bit when first turning key on?
Check press. or park nose down.Very slight chance this is the problem.
They WILL start at low temps w/0 glow plugs.
Low batterys will cause probelems, you should see 150 - 200 RPM when cranking.
Usually some of the relays will chatter.
If you must absolutly start it, using ether, wait a full two minutes to ensure the G-plugs are shut off. The "on time" is independent of the WTS light.
This will also aid in starting with weak batts. since they would not have to supply both the G-plugs and starter, both being current hogs, there would not be enough left to operate the PCM/IDM.
Good Luck.
Last edited:
dmd
Member
I am for air leakage athe the fuel pump loosing prime... Start by backing up the drive and park nose down and see if you have a issue....
Yea, dont use ether.. I can lite as the piston is on the way up and do some nasty damage.
Yea, dont use ether.. I can lite as the piston is on the way up and do some nasty damage.
Another thought is HPOP losing its prime.
Remove plug, check for oil.
If was fuel pump, in theory runnning should not make a difference.
No vacuum to suck fuel up as in a gasser/carb. combo.
Dieselmann would be a person to ask:
http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/home.html
But, actually you need a good tech. to troubleshoot it.
Remove plug, check for oil.
If was fuel pump, in theory runnning should not make a difference.
No vacuum to suck fuel up as in a gasser/carb. combo.
Dieselmann would be a person to ask:
http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/home.html
But, actually you need a good tech. to troubleshoot it.
