hpop o-ring replacement, without disco tool, with pics

[paulkeith]

tools you need to do the job:
ratchet & sockets, incl 8mm.
extensions
stubby 3/4" wrench (would be ideal to have a 3/4" flare fitting wrench, but i coudln't find one)
regular 3/4" wrench

Parts you need to do the job:
o-ring kit (from ford: p/n 2C3Z-9G804-AB, mine was $28.00)
includes 3 orings, and the smallest tube of locktite i've ever seen.


1. remove the turbo outlet/intake ypipe assembly. you'll have to unplug a few connectors, remove a few hoses, and loosen the clamps.

2. stuff a handful of paper towels into the back of the intake valley to soak up the oil that's going to leak out.

3. Remove the high pressure oil line closest to the firewall first. I cracked it loose with the large wrench, and loosened it with the stubby wrench. you'll only get like 1/8th of a turn and then have to flip the wrench. long and slow, but it does the job.

here's a view of the first line, with the old oring:

4. now remove the high pressure oil line closest to the radiator. same process: crack with the big wrench, loosen with the stubby wrench. Mine wasn't tight...which probably had somethign to do with why it was leaking.

here are some pictures of this line, as you can see my oring was in very poor shape:

ok, you're about 40% done. here is a view of the pump with both lines removed:

5. remove the hex plug on the back of the pump with a socket/ratchet. I did this last, and the ford instructions say to do it first. Doing it first is probably better as it will let most of the oil drain out of only the hex plug hole instead of both of the fitting holes.

This picture shows you both removed line ports, and the hole for the hex plug (just to the left of the white connector in the center of the pic)

NOW...Get our your new pretty pink o-rings.

6. remove all the old o-rings. careful not to etch any of the metal or threads while removing them. they can be tricky to get off...I used a flattip and worked carefully.

old oring on the hex plug:

IMPORTANT STEP!!!!:
Clean both fitting holes with brake parts cleaner, and both fittings also. repeat for the hex plug when the oil finishes draining. (this took maybe 20 minutes for me)

This is important for the locktite to be able to set.

7. put the new orings onto the fittings. Apply the locktite to only the first 3 threads of the fittings and hex plug. Getting the fittings to thread back in is tricky with the braided oil line attached and fighting you, especially while trying to avoid slinging your fresh locktite everywhere. Work carefully and don't lose your patience. This was the biggest pita for me on this whole job, but I have fat hands. Just get them started and then get back to work with your 3/4" stubby wrench.

Tighten to 25 ftlbs....which, with a wrench is "tight but not super tight".... Think of this: apply 25lbs of force 1ft from the bolt. so a wrench is about 12", so give it about 25lbs... This is where a ratchet would be nice..

new oring on the hex plug:

Put your piping back in, remember to tighten all your clamps and not to forget any cannon plugs or lines.

comments:

mine took a good 20 seconds to crank back up, but i've got no leaks.

This would be way easier with a disconnect tool, since the most time consuming part was loosening the fittings with a wrench. the disco tool allows you to use a 3/4" socket on the fittings, and a torque wrench when reassembling. but...it is definitely doable without, and cheaper.

To make your own disconnect tool, start with any flat piece of metal, about 1/8" of an inch thick. The shape of the disconnect tool is a U, 1/2" by 1/2". Push this inbetween the plastic and metal parts of the quick disco fitting, press the line towards the hpop, and pull the disco away from the pump towards the line...and then pull the whole line off. Sounds confusing, but apparently with the tool and a little fiddling, it will come off.



this about covers it.

lines back in:

if you have any questions, don't hesitate to fire me a pm at superdutydiesel.com, username paulkeith
Paul

 

[RSG]

Excellent! Way to go! and thanks for the pix

 

[juniper007]

Nice job,I order my o rings from ITP. I will be doing my truck this weekend. the pictures are very appreciated.Thanks

 

[JPLTrucking]

Will you see a puddle on the ground if they are leaking or will the engine just get wet. Last time I changed my oil, I noticed some wetness on the rear of the engine. I wiped it clean to see if it returns or not. Any info would help.

 

[Wingdog]

Will you see a puddle on the ground if they are leaking or will the engine just get wet. Last time I changed my oil, I noticed some wetness on the rear of the engine. I wiped it clean to see if it returns or not. Any info would help.

If your HPOP is leaking you'll know about it. They usually like to leak quite a bit of oil and your vally on top of your motor will be full of oil. There also will be a nice puddle of oil on the ground too so you'll want to get that fixed up right away so the cummins guys don't make fun of you. And if it leaks even worse your truck prolly just won't run.

 

[paulkeith]

mine was leaving maybe a 3" puddle per night. larger after high speed driving (interstate). the pump would only leak above 2000rpm, so around city driving didn't generate much oil loss.

It took me a while to track down, just because the puddles in the valley were never deep enough to flow over...but the acceleration of the truck would make it splash over, and i didn't notice this until I really started cleaning, driving around the block, and looking again.

my oil was coming out of the bellhousing. I initially couldn't find anywhere that oil was coming from the back of the engine down, but eventually just had a friend hold the rpms at like 2500 while i watched the hpop.

hope this helps.
Paul

 

[Maintain]

Alot of times a leaky HPOP will shut your truck off.

Good looking writeup.

 

[CHPMustang]

Very good write up there Keith(sorry Paul),pictures are very helpful on this DIY

Hey I sent you a PM Paul

 

[paulkeith]

it's paul.....i know, i know i've got two first names....