Injectors and Glow Plugs

[threejacks]

I have a completely stock 95 CC auto I purchased new in Nov 1994. It now has 325,000 miles on it. I have not had any more than valve covers off truck and that was when gaskets melted and had to be replaced. I have not replaced a glow plug, injector, or turbo. One set of batteries (I keep plugged in all winter) rebuilt starter twice, alternator once, and several (who counts) glow plug relays. It seems glow plugs were getting weak at the end of the past winter, a few hard starts. A couple of weeks ago I started to get some missing and low power at low rpm's. I had it scanned and had one injector showing trouble. Instead of replacing one injector do I more the likely have more injectors on the way out? I also plan to replace glow plugs at this time. At this age of truck and miles are there other things I need to address at this time.

 

[Crumm]

When you do the glowplugs be sure to get the Motorcraft ones marked "Beru". The autolight ones and a few others have given many guys more trouble than they wanted. When they get stuck in the hole it is not fun.

"several (who counts) glow plug relays" You might look into installing a Stancor relay. they are a much heavier duty unit and will last much longer than the factory sized, underrated unit. The part number is 586-902. You can find them at many on-line electronic stores like Allied Electronics.

As far as the injector life expectancy, I have no idea. Maybe Bean will chime in.

 

[BJS]

If you're still running the stock injectors and o-rings congrats to you. Mine were leaking rather bad @ 160k. Easy check there is the fuel filter see if it is black. Low end power you might have the screen on the side of the regulator that is stopped up. so you're not getting enough fuel to the cylinders. The glow plugs might be a pain to get out if they aren't working quite right and have carbon built up on them though not absoloutely. If you visit a marine store they usually have something to clean up carbon buildup for the 2cycle boat engines and several people have said that mercury powertune works well to dissolve the carbon. While you're in the valve covers check and make sure that the internal wiring harnesses are good the plugs tend to melt especially for the glow plug wires.

At 160k I had some internal problems with my injectors that bean found when he upgraded them for me.

I'll second Crumm on the stancor relay, I bought one to keep around when the stock style failed and mine literally fell apart one day with one of the large lugs simply falling out so I stuck it in there, btw it fits under the stock cover without any problem.

If you get new/rebuilt injectors from bean they'll ship them to you w/ new o-rings so you dont' have to worry about doing that yourself.

If you're out to do preventative maint you can:
1. check your IPR o-rings
2. check the fuel pump to see if it is leaking fuel out the weep holes.
3. check bottom of fuel bowl UNDER heater plate for dirt buildup it doesn't alwasy get flushed out when you drain the fuel bowl. 7/8" crowfoot wrench backward threads

 

[95_stroker]

I cant recall where I read it at, but I think it was either Bean or Golfer (Dave) that said it, 150~200K on a set of injectors is pushing the mechanical limits. But he also stated that when he gets a set of cores back in he knows who changes oil at recommended intervals. But that makes sense if you think about it. If your oil is dirty and you pressure it up tp 3000 psi and force it into a small chamber...your gonna get increased wear.

At the mileage you have on your truck (which is awesome by the way), if you are considering a modified injector, you'll surely need to do tranny mods, install a DP, re-work the intake if you still have the stock air box, and maybe a few other dime store mods. If you just want to keep the old girl stock, which is good too, then I would definelty get a set of rebuilt injectors. If you go to our sponsor list on the front page of the forum, send Ryan Bean of Beans Diesel Performance an e-mail or just pick up the phone and call him. I think he will set you up with a set of stock injectors (all 8) fairly reasonably. Or if you have a wild hair....he can get you some modified squirters too, that is if you have the need for soot clouds in copious amounts.

 

[d.welch1]

replacing the GP's is not a bad job, after getting the VC off, I took a paper towel and tried to soak the oil around the GP up, used a screw driver and stuffed the paper towel around it, I used a 1/4" drive socket to brake the GP loose, get a piece of 1/4" rubber hose about 6" long (acetalene/oxygen ect) put the rubber hose on the end of the GP and unscrew, also use it to re-install GP and then tighten with socket, the rubber hose is nice, you'll see what I mean, specially if you have fat fingers! The passenger side took a little longer to get the VC off, on my 97 I did not remover anything other than the VC, I kind of rolled it up, the VC bolts closest to the cab took the longest, I spent about 1 1/2 hours taking my time on each side. As stated us ethe Motor craft plugs, you can get them at Autozone ect, they use to be around $9.00

You can check your GP's with an Ohm meter, put on lead on the VC connector and the other lead on a good ground and read the resistance, you are looking for 2 ohms or less, if it reads infinity or open they are not working at all, the higher the resistance the less effective it is. I am not sure about your 94, but the VC 5 pin connector, the two outside pins are the GP pins.

Hope this helps

 

[Bad Company]

I don't want to "hijack" this thread. I am interested in the Stancor relay upgrade. Is that easy to do for a backyard "hack" mechanic. I change my own oil and filters, but not a lot more.

 

[Crumm]

The Stancor bolts right on. No special talent required..