Question Rear Axle Servicing

DaveBen

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Yes it was the fill level plug. Most people remove the cover to drain the gear oil, I do. Your choice. I do not know anybody who has done that. Maybe someone will chime in.
 

BIG JOE

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Not the cover,the BOTTOM of the cast houseing.There is a round,flat spot where they used to put a drain plug.I guess it was to expensive to dril/tap a hole!They quit doing that in the late 80's.I have seen covers that have what you are talking about,but it was higher up and was at "fill level'.

Not only the drill & tap cost... I'm think'n: when the Bumper to Bumper Warranty length(s) went up to what they are today... and the improvements in Oils & Lubes (synthetics).. these dayz.. the Dif drain plug jus' became.. "Old School", and un-necessary ?

AND... They don't want US to be mess'n with anything anymore.. because of the above.

Kinda sad though cuz those of us that still Turn Wrenches...... WE know what needs to be done.. based on how we've used our equipment ? "Life Time" anything.. just don't git it ?

Old School Joe :fogey;):)
 

f100cleveland

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I tried Royal Purple syn oil. It was said to improve rear limited slip but no difference. Nothing wrong with Royal Purple rear end grease just the newer trucks have decent lockers but old limited slips never worked.
 

01yellerCobra

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I've tried Royal Purple oil and gear oil in the past. I didn't see any change or improvement that justified the cost. So I haven't bothered with it since.
 

troutwest66

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I used the Valvoline Synthetic in my '94 and had no problems so I feel pretty good using it this time, too. I get a discount at my NAPA through the school district as well.
 

Tbar

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The AMSOIL folks said I wouldn't need the friction modifier additive when using their gear oil. I was skeptical but had no problems without it.
 

john griffin

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I used Amsoil "regular" (silver bottle) gear lube for 10 years and always had to add friction modifyer.The sd would chatter like a squirell in heat if I didnt.I switched to thier "severe Gear" (black bottle) and it works fine w/o any additives.I change it every year not because I think the oil is used up(I know it isnt) but so that I can check for wear particals.Have never found any and spent a bit of $ on gear lube and atf (transfer case) but I feel better.
 

carbonation

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First change really should be early. Between 5 and 10k IMO. Lots of metal that gets shedded when new.
Then every 30-40k after that if towing.
75w140. I ran Valvoline Syn-Power for a long time. It's a fine lubricant when changed at the proper interval, and I never needed additional friction modifier add.
The aluminum Ford cover is a cheap upgrade, and can drop temp about 20 degrees vs. the stamped steelie.
8C3Z-4033-A, various retailers on the web. Usually available for about 60.00
I like ARP P/N 612-1250 to bolt it on with. Stainless, and just the right, slightly longer, length for the aluminum cover.
 
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