vac line HELP pls

[Tx_Atty]

UPDATED: vac line HELP pls

Ok, almost done with the AC mod and Im wishing I never started. The black vacuum line is NOT 1/8" as everyone reports. I have cut the damn thing and no matter how I try the 1/8th T will NOT go in. Now I have NO vacuum at all and no way to fix it. HELP! What do I do now?

Thanks.

 

[happeetxn]

What have you done to try and get the "T" to go into the line, i.e. lubricated it, tried to stretch the vacuum line with a small screw driver, or nail? Is there something smaller in diameter that you can put inside the vacuum line to tie the line back together???????
Just trying to throw some ideas out there.
Craig

 

[oi8228oi]

can put lines together and wrap tightly with lottsa eletrical tape or plug the end up

 

[stroke_smoke]

if you can, use a lighter and heat the end up just enough to make it soft, not on fire, then shove the T in to it. i know it sounds dumb but believe me it work's

 

[Tx_Atty]

well I finally got it on in a half assed manner. I lubed it and with a lot of pushing finally got it to go on enough to put a zip tie on it. This may be temporary because even though it is all back together it still DOESNT WORK!! Damn Im tired of this project.

Ok - under the glove box on the OBS there are a pair of lines, white and black. I t'd into the black because the schematic showed it is the vac source line in all settings. I am wondering now if the one I used is not the right black line. Under the dash over the trans hump you get the cluster of lines I pictured in the other thread. I made the assumption the black line I used was the same but I cant trace the line because the area is too small.

If that is not the vac line, what did I cut?? I get AC when I turn it on but the water valve doesnt close. Im going to bypass the solenoid tomorrow evening when I get home and see if I get anything. I will also look for another possible T location. What a PITA.

Thanks for the suggestions on the line. I may be referring back to this if I have to relocate the T. Sure wish I knew for certain what line I cut.

 

[dpantazis]

TX-
yeah i agree, this is a real PITA.
too much mis-information floating around. kinda like 2 versions of the fpr shimming.

i think the way to do it is to use a 1/8x1/8x3/16 and pull the clear vinyl coulpler off the disconnect and push that onto the T.

right now, i got the hose coupled with shrink tubing. i am not happy about it, but for now, it seems to hold.

in hindsight, KISS- screw the damn ranger mixing valve and use a SIMPLE water valve in its place.

dennis

 

[powerboatr]

peter
sounds like you had quite a time. the obs trucks must use a bit different.
yep my 1/8 lines were tight as a....well lets keep it civil.
i to heated up a scribe and it softened the hose up enough to get a tee in, and shrank down tight.
sorry to hear about the problems, that makes a good mod , go bad fast.

 

[Tx_Atty]

Dennis, did you take your mod out or cut the wrong line? Wondering what line you shrink wrapped. I thought of that repair method last night along with another option - tell me which you think might be better - I was thinking of getting a short piece of vac line that has a 1/8 Inner diameter and put it over the two ends then wrapping with electric tape. A splice that goes over the outside instead of inside.

Tonight I will do a non-cutting T into the black line like you mentionded by pulling the end off and going in there. Safer. Wish I had done that first. If still nothing I will bypass the solenoid and see what happens. It occurred to me I could conceivably have a bad solenoid.

Robert, my wife just kept shaking her head. "Your 30 minute project sure has taken awile..." Good thing I like her.

 

[Tx_Atty]

ok, I bypassed the solenoid and it works -- tells me two things. 1, the black line is the right one but still not the 1/8th described; 2, the solenoid is the issue. Either it is defective, not able to do what I want, or I have it hooked up wrong. The electricity tabs are not labeled and I switched the polarity with no change. I swapped the vac lines thinking maybe I had them backwards, still no change.

Wiring question - the solenoid is hooked up to a lighted dash switch. The switch has 3 prongs - ground, power, load. The solenoid has 2 prongs. I ran a wire from the switch "power" to the fuse panel; the "load" wire to the solenoid; the ground to a screw on the floor; the other side of the solenoid on a separate wire to the same ground screw. Is that correct? The switch lights up when turned on but do I have a mistake preventing proper power to the solenoid?

Thanks again in this my continuing education.

 

[powerboatr]

ok, I bypassed the solenoid and it works -- tells me two things. 1, the black line is the right one but still not the 1/8th described; 2, the solenoid is the issue. Either it is defective, not able to do what I want, or I have it hooked up wrong. The electricity tabs are not labeled and I switched the polarity with no change. I swapped the vac lines thinking maybe I had them backwards, still no change.

Wiring question - the solenoid is hooked up to a lighted dash switch. The switch has 3 prongs - ground, power, load. The solenoid has 2 prongs. I ran a wire from the switch "power" to the fuse panel; the "load" wire to the solenoid; the ground to a screw on the floor; the other side of the solenoid on a separate wire to the same ground screw. Is that correct? The switch lights up when turned on but do I have a mistake preventing proper power to the solenoid?

Thanks again in this my continuing education.

peter
did you check with a voltmeter to ensure your getting 12v to teh solenoid when you flip the switch?
and a good ground with an ohm meter, the screw on the floor? is it clean and good metal to metal cntact?
robert