Water pump Failure.... Help

Crumm

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Looks as though my waterpump bought the farm. I came out of Fredmeyer today to find a puddle of coolant under the engine. Looks to be coming out of the water pump. There is no coolant anywhere above the pump but there is under it. It is running down around the end of the crank and dripping down the front of the pan.

Question one: What is the best replacement pump? Best to stick with Ford? I seem to recall a write-up a while back about switching to a IH pump that has a coolant filter housing built onto it, is that a good way to go? I am not really interested in the cheapest fix I want the best fix. I am planning on keeping the truck for at least another 20 years, probably longer so I want to do it right.

Question two: Anyone have a good set of instructions on changing the pump? With the recent loss of the ability to search the archives at TDS all the information I was counting on is impossible to find. I seem to recall the fan taking a special wrench but beyond that I don't recall any of the waterpump changing procedure.
 

Crumm

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After some more searching I found these instructions. Sound about right?

1. Partially drain the engine cooling system.
2. Remove the upper radiator hose clamps and upper radiator hose.
3. Disconnect the radiator coolant recovery reservoir hose at radiator.
4. Remove the fan and clutch assembly using the Fan Clutch Nut Wrench and Fan Clutch Pulley Holder. Set the fan and clutch assembly in the fan shroud. I rented my fan clutch tools from AutoZone for $40.
5. Remove the fan shroud screws. (2 ea.)
6. Remove the fan shroud, fan and clutch assembly. I lifted the shroud up some and pulled the fan and clutch assembly out first then removed the shroud.
7. Loosen the four water pump pulley bolts.
8. Remove the drive belt.
9. Remove the water pump pulley bolts and water pump pulley.
10. Disconnect the engine coolant temperature sensor.
11. Disconnect the heater hose and clamp from the water pump.
12. Remove the water pump inlet bolts and water pump inlet.
13. Remove the water pump bolts. These bolts are different lengths. There are nine bolts and three different lengths. Mark where they go.
14. Remove water pump and water pump housing gasket.
15. Clean gasket surfaces.

Installation
1. Install the water pump and water pump-housing gasket. I put a little grease on the gasket to help hold it in place.
2. Install the water pump bolts, torque to 15 ft/lbs.
3. Install the water pump inlet and bolts, tighten bolts to 15 ft/lbs.
4. Install the heater hose and clamp to the water pump.
5. Connect the engine coolant temperature sensor.
6. Install the water pump pulley and start the water pump pulley bolts.
7. Install the drive belt.
8. Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 12-18 ft/lbs.
9. Install the fan shroud, and fan and clutch assembly. Nice to have an extra set of hands, but I managed it by myself.
10. Install the fan shroud screws
11. Install the fan and clutch assembly using the rental tools.
12.Install the radiator coolant recovery reservoir hose to the radiator.
13. Install the upper radiator hose and clamps.
14. Refill and bleed the engine cooling system.

The rental tool talked about can be seen HERE.

Even though I may have answered half my question still need to know where to get the best pump?

.
 

Patrick Feeley

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I would slide a piece of cardboard between the shroud and radiator, then remove the fan/clutch and shroud together. Shroud will have four bolts holding it on. Cheers!
 

Renegade

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I just saw your post on the other site & couldnt link to it so I reckon I can copy & paste. (shorter than original due to character number too high)



Howdy

I agree,milling off the pulley mount a exact amount would be a cleaner setup as compared to me lopping it off with a sawzall, in case anyone ever decided to go to the pulley.

I thought I'd do a quick run down of the parts used here so I wouldnt get confused on a later date or if I lost any paperwork

1 - International Water Pump w/gasket & w/spin on filter boss - 1831676C92

3 - bolts 30 mm, 1817958C1

2 - bolts 60mm, 1817811C1

4 - bolts 110mm, 1818693C1

1 -(optional) Int. pulley smooth, 1822652C91, or Int. grooved, 1822653C91 or Ford (grooved 8 rib) F6TZ-28678-HB

1 -(optional) pulley shouldered bolt, 2001804C1

1 or 2 (optional)(hasnt come in yet) dust cover for idler pulley bearing, 1823450C1

1 - Thermostat 192 degf with gasket, 10823417C92

1 - lower radiator formed inlet hose, NAPA 8763

1 - brass fitting 3/4" NPT to 1" male barb DIXON brand 10016-112

1 - fleetguard coolant filter of your choice

a few various npt pipe plugs - 3/8" & 1/2", stainless hose clamps,coolant, FW-16, heater hose, neversieze, torque wrench,silicone,fan removal tool.

I think that about covers it & if I find anything else I'll add it as I go.

Cheers



Big Red CC Dually also has one on his truck also & may be able to provide some good help.

The biggest changes I recall since that post is another lower hose has been found that will work & some have milled off the idler pulley mounting boss so they dont need the idler & longer belt since it does seem a bit tought to find.

Theres also pics in my sig in a couple groups that may be helpful.

Just give a yell if you run into any snags

Cheers
 

Crumm

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Thanks Brian. About what it the total cost for the switch over? I am also wondering about parts availability if a guy breaks down in the boonies? Would it be better to stick with the stock setup for a easier fix in the future? I have a Tymar coolant filter system so I don't really need the coolant filter on the waterpump. Which waterpump is a better unit?
 

Crumm

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I emailed Dale at powerstrokeshop.com and he sent me this link. I might add that he answered my email Sunday morning at 9:30am, talk about customer service :sweet.

Does anyone know anything about Eastern Industries of Florida? I want a high quality pump and since I only got 57,350 miles out of the OEM unit I am not so sure that OEM is the way to go. The Eastern Industries pump says it is made in America so it is better than some.
 

Renegade

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Getting about all items from Ford & Navistar will be roughly $400ish to convert over but after that it would be just $200 for the pump from the Navistar dealer. The IH pumps usually come with a 1 year warranty.

As far as availibility, In my neck of the woods there seems to be a IH dealer in every town in Wv,Ky & Oh so its no biggie but the fan belt length may a tough find as its not a commonly stocked item in any parts stores.(if you choose to use the idler pulley)

I really like the cast iron body with one piece neck as compared to the 2 piece & aluminum body that most pumps have as that will eliminate 1 potential leak source but I havent heard of any leaking there.
Best I recall (dont hold me to it though) I seem to recall the IH pumps had double bearings to help support the shaft/fan & a bit different seal as compared to the Ford pump.

Since you already have a coolant filter, I would probably stray away from the IH conversion unless you just wanted to or was looking to relocate the filter to a better location for intercooler piping clearance or something like that.

From the link you provided - that looks like a smoking deal! :sweet though we would need the different longer upper tstat neck with the bend to it.
 

Crumm

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Renegade said:
the fan belt length may a tough find as its not a commonly stocked item in any parts stores.(if you choose to use the idler pulley)
Once you find one buy two and keep one under the seat :sweet I carry a spare with me at all times..
 

Crumm

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Well after checking everywhere I have decided to go with a Ford OEM pump. They dropped the price to .Here are the prices I have found.

$175.95 + 28.35 shipping = $204.30 @ Powerstrokeshop.com
or @ shopdiesel.com, both are Eastern pumps

$259 at NAPA they quoted me $295 until I told them they were way to high compared to Ford

$289.31 + shipping + all the extra stuff needed for a IH at local dealer

$250 at Ford. They wanted $328 until I told them they were too high.

I have always been one that likes OEM parts. I would really like to do the IH swap but I just don't have the time to do all the leg work rounding up parts and putting it all together. Too many other projects going. I even found a fan clutch wrench even though it is currently 500 miles to the North but I just happen to heading up there tonight. The parts houses here in town seemed confused when I told them I wanted a 1 7/8 fan clutch wrench but with thousands of Ford diesels running around on the north slope they knew just what I wanted.
 

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