6spd Tranny Fluid

[BIG JOE]

Hi Antonio, everyone has their favorites but, I've used, Red Line D-4 ATF in mine at, 35 & 75K. Come'n up on 100K here purdy quik so I'll use it again.

This tranny had real "Notchy" shifting. The DF-4 fixed that, REAL Good.

JOE

 

[roosterdiesel]

Hi Antonio, everyone has their favorites but, I've used, Red Line D-4 ATF in mine at, 35 & 75K. Come'n up on 100K here purdy quik so I'll use it again.

This tranny had real "Notchy" shifting. The DF-4 fixed that, REAL Good.

JOE

Hi Joe, where do you get it? I really don't want to have to order fluids, but I already order fuel and air filters on line so what's something else.


The new fluid helped alot but not like it did when I changed it the last time.
I was looking back at records and I had 40k on it. Probably around 120 passes down the strip, 3000 mile trip to Orlando towing, another 1000 or so towing around the farm and moving cars. The rest 75% highway. The fluid was BAD. Didn't smell anything like what I put in.

Antonio

 

[BIG JOE]

I get mine localy, at a REAL GOOD, localy owned parts place. I'v seen >some< Red Line products at Pep Boys.

You can check'm out at: www.redlineoils.com , From there you can find a local supplier.

JOE

 

[roosterdiesel]

Thanks, I'll keep my eyes peeled for it when I'm out now. Only other synthetic tranny fluid I found in town was castrol. Not fond of their products.

 

[Hoss 350]

jvecius,

That's what I thought, couldn't remember from the other place and can't find my manual for the life of me right now. Now add tranny to my list of fluids that need to be changed.

Hoss350,

It feels kinda softer now. Seems do engage closer to the floor and let out higher. The fluid's fine. Maybe I'm just paranoid.

I know I have the upgraded fork, had it done with the clutch at 74k miles. Think I already had it but the shop had already covered it under the extended warranty. We set the two side by side before installing the one we knew was the updated one.

I just had a thought, Roosterdiesel...

Stick your head under the dash as you actuate the pedal. There is a connection where a pin goes off the side of the pedal, and sticks through a hole in the actuator rod, which goes through the firewall and actuates the master. This connection is created by a cheap plastic POS of a "bushing" which wears out quick-like once you start getting a couple miles on the truck. If this thing is worn out, the pedal will move quite a bit before the actuator rod moves (which is actually what gets the job done). This could be causing your problem. That said, it doesn't help the problem much, because to get a new rod in there, as far as i can tell, you either need a special tool (like a QD disconnect tool) or a new master (which means a new slave, since it comes in a unit.)

Anyway, check it out and let us know what you find out. This could be your problem, a wore-out cheapy plastic bushing. It happened on my '95.

 

[roosterdiesel]

I'll check the pedal and arm assembly out. I forgot about the bushing thing going out.

I know my grind going into 4th(3rd on the knob) is getting worse. When cold(below 30) and me shifting nice and smooth I've had some terrible grinds. I'm beginning to think it's not clutch related.