ball joints!!

[no-red 6 0]

tanks for the info guys. a guy i work w/ said that i'd need an axle nut socket??? since this is my virgin experience i have no clue, that is why i asked.

preciate it bama. i can always count on you to make me feel small........

found em at autozone but the puter did not show any greasable styles. will double check w/ my neighbor who runs the place.heheheheh

oh, and i am still using the work puter for personal purposes...hehehaha

double oh:
1. pull wheel
2. pull hub
3. pull axle out
4. press out ball joint(s)

now-is there any seal(s) that i have to replace once all is taken apart that i must buy and replace?

 

[newt92]

Just replaced mine on my F250, The dealer wanted $794. Went to my local tire shop and could get ball joints plus alignment for $650. My route was I bought the parts from another Ford shop where I know the parts manager who sold the upper and lower ball joints for $120 and had a friend install them and took 1 1/2 hours to do and paid him $150. $270 for parts and labor then alignment will be around $65 so total around $335 vs. $850 to $900. Since I don't have the tools to do the job or the week it would probly take me to do it, I think I done alright.

 

[BamaSixGun]

preciate it bama. i can always count on you to make me feel small........

No prob red, thats whats friends are for.

This might be the very opportunity to get those add-a-leafs done while
the front wheels are off during the ball joint replacements.

 

[silverF250]

I would suggest getting a knuckle seal and an axle seal (oil seal). The knuckle seal is kind of a pain but can be done fairly easy if you have an old hub bearing (wheel bearing). You will probably have to get them from Ford. A knuckle seal tool runs $100. Yes autozone has the greaseable balljoints just watch it they may try to give you a control armed one for the upper. You need a 90 degree zirk fitting for the upper, and need to make sure that it doesn't hit the axle when spinning. You may have to grind a little on it. Another tip take the caliper and bracket apart as a unit it is easier. Hope this helps.

1. pull wheel 2. pull caliper mounting bracket 3. pull hub 4. wheel bearing 5. pull axle 6. pull knuckle 7. replace ball joints

 

[bushpilot]

hub seals (dealer only, for about 50 bucks each...plus donuts/beer
for a tech/shop to press the old/new off/on).

axle dust seal (avail. anywhere 10 bucks per side)

yellow hub o-ring (5 bucks MAX per side...dealer has 'em)

autozone has the lifetime grease-able upper AND lower ball joints...
one is about 50 the other maybe 30...and thats for the duralast
lifetime warranty units.

autozone.com

 

[no-red 6 0]

ok-sorry for the time lag....still no puter..stealing time at work..

don't take this the wrong way but my local autozone sells them for $29/30 a piece. am i missing something or is it just cheaper here? the 90 degree zirk is a good tip. i did notice it was a straight one for the top, wondered how it would be able to be used.....
so other seals NEED or SHOULD be replaced? my autozone buddy says 'no' according to his diagrams.. i just want to do it right and have all the tools and parts needed if i am to do this myself cuz, once apart - i ain't walking to the dealer......
i will check back in another couple days when at work...gotta get..boss is lurking

 

[bushpilot]

ok-sorry for the time lag....still no puter..stealing time at work..

don't take this the wrong way but my local autozone sells them for $29/30 a piece. am i missing something or is it just cheaper here? the 90 degree zirk is a good tip. i did notice it was a straight one for the top, wondered how it would be able to be used.....
so other seals NEED or SHOULD be replaced? my autozone buddy says 'no' according to his diagrams.. i just want to do it right and have all the tools and parts needed if i am to do this myself cuz, once apart - i ain't walking to the dealer......
i will check back in another couple days when at work...gotta get..boss is lurking

if you use the autozone (lifetime warrantee) duralast brand youll
need to change the upper balljoint zirk fitting....the STRAIGHT zirk
fitting WILL bang in the u-joint...and you will NOT be able to "tighten"
the upper zirk fitting enough (to clear the front ujoint)....g'head...ask
me how i know

if youre doing the ball joints, i would recommend replacing the yellow
o-ring / hub seals, the axle tube DUST seal and the axle/hub vac. seal

 

[no-red 6 0]

is that a 'just because you are there and have ripped it open' answer.

thanks bush and others

 

[bushpilot]

it makes sense if youre there...the hub/vac seal is 50 bucks
(avail. only from ford) per side...some have damaged the hub/vac
seal when pulling the axles out.

the yellow orings are 5 bucks

the dust seal (mine was torn) are 10 bucks...i got mine @ o'reillys

im happy w/ the autozone/duralast balljoints...they seem to be
holding up just fine.

 

[atk]

if you use the autozone (lifetime warrantee) duralast brand youll
need to change the upper balljoint zirk fitting....the STRAIGHT zirk
fitting WILL bang in the u-joint...and you will NOT be able to "tighten"
the upper zirk fitting enough (to clear the front ujoint)....g'head...ask
me how i know

if youre doing the ball joints, i would recommend replacing the yellow
o-ring / hub seals, the axle tube DUST seal and the axle/hub vac. seal

when i did my ball joints it came with the 90 degree zerk fittings, no way those were going to work, so i have plugs in them for now....going to try some short straight ones and use a 90 degree end on the grease gun....


how long were those straight zerk fittings?