Battery Voltages

Smoky

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Well ive been chasing my cranking no start issue since Saturday. I had Ed repair the FICM the week before and all ran well from Wednesday until Saturday. It was washed and would not start and is still siiting in the driveway. I replaced the cam position sensor on Monday morning thinking that was my problem but still not starting. If you remember from my previous post over the last 6 weeks, I have been working on R&R the egr cooler oil cooler. etc.... and had the batteries out of the truck. The batteries are Bosch 1000/850 amp 96 month batteries. They are now 49 months old. I charged them once or twice while out of the truck. They were load tested individually out of the truck 2 weeks ago at AZ and were said to be OK but needed a litle charge.

Now to tonight; I picked up another loan-a-scanner from AZ as the last one was not working. This time I got a P2285 code which is a ICP sensor code. This was from my unplugging the sensor to see if that made a difference to make it start. Still only cranking no starting. I've checked the voltage on my FICM and it shows 48-50 KOEO and 48-49 cranking. The wiring harness to the FICM is intact and tight to the FICM.

I cleared the P2285 code with the scan tool then tried cranking the engine. No code reappeared so i believe the code was from when I had unplugged the sensor earlier. There was no oil residue on the ICP sensor harness when I unplugged it earlier.

Upon reviewing the data on the scan tool, I noticed that the VPWR voltage when cranking the enginge dropped to about 8 volts and at best was only showing about 11.3-11.9 volts when not cranking and not trying to crank for a while. The scan tool is registering engine RPMS at about 250 when cranking. The batteries were fully charged this afternoon but after about 6 attempts at cranking the engine for about 10 seconds or less each time, the batteries will not sustain a crank over about 3 secs and the lights flicker off and the scantool goes blank on the screen.

I believe that the individual battery load test at AZ lied to me and the batteries are actually failing under load as evidenced by the low voltage during cranking.

What do you guys think?
 

BIG JOE

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By what you've described, I would agree ? Your battery condition(s), before or after an amp load.. are Not providing the sustainable, required, voltage or amps.

(AZ is not on my list for testing anything 12v.)

Joe
 

W4RLR

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Bad batteries. Ditch the Bosch batteries and go with the OEM Motorcrafts. That's all I put in my truck, no worries. O'Reilly's sells them at a better price than the stealership.
 

Smoky

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Guys and Girls I put two new MC batteries into the truck today and still not running. i pulled the cap off of the Fuel Filter housing on top and it is empy. Is it suppose to be when you remove the top? I turned the key on and the bowl fills up but there is alot of air in the fuel as it swirls in. Is that suppose to happen?

When I did the blue spring mod, there is a black plastic bushing in the side of the regulator housing that the brass bushing slides into and the blue spring slides into the brass bushing. I nicked the black plastic thing when I did the blue spring mod. Is that s problem?

I also found a wire just now that is coming thru the driver's side firewall just under the master cylinder. It is long enogh to reach to the engine block and has a green plug on the end of it and is suppose to clip on to something that I cant find? maybe there is a ground wire lose or somthing?

HELP?
 

BIG JOE

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Guys and Girls I put two new MC batteries into the truck today and still not running. i pulled the cap off of the Fuel Filter housing on top and it is empy. Is it suppose to be when you remove the top? I turned the key on and the bowl fills up but there is alot of air in the fuel as it swirls in. Is that suppose to happen?

**That eliminates the Batts. No, the filter bowl should be Full.

When I did the blue spring mod, there is a black plastic bushing in the side of the regulator housing that the brass bushing slides into and the blue spring slides into the brass bushing. I nicked the black plastic thing when I did the blue spring mod. Is that s problem?

** YES.. it could be. I'm thinking that plactic bushing you nicked could be your problem... no fuel pressure. And because of the nick, the fuel filter bowl is draining down.

I also found a wire just now that is coming thru the driver's side firewall just under the master cylinder. It is long enogh to reach to the engine block and has a green plug on the end of it and is suppose to clip on to something that I cant find? maybe there is a ground wire lose or somthing?

** That.. I can't help you with.

HELP?

Maybe another 6.0 member will chime in ????

Joe
 

Smoky

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It ran for three days with that nicked up little plastic thingamajiggybob. I just took the fuel regulator back apart and relooked at everything on it. Other than the nicked platic thing.

Anyone got one of those black plastic things left over from there blue spring mod that hey didnt use because there fuel bowl was one piece and didnt require the black sleeve?

I will buy it from you?

If you deliver tonight there would be food involved as well.

Ive removed the FICM and checked the wiring and clips. No bent pins etc... Now to get that back on. Im not showing any codes so I dont think it is anything electrical.

How do I put a mechanical fuel pressure gauge on the regulator to test the pressure? Any parts list to do so?
 

Smoky

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So when I open the top filter bowl the fuel in the bowl should stay in the bowl and not drain down????

Mine is empy and when I turn the key on the fuel starts running into the bowl and will overflow the bowl with the top off but when you turn the key off, the bowl empties.

Is that not what it is suppose to do?
 

BIG JOE

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So when I open the top filter bowl the fuel in the bowl should stay in the bowl and not drain down????

Mine is empy and when I turn the key on the fuel starts running into the bowl and will overflow the bowl with the top off but when you turn the key off, the bowl empties.

Is that not what it is suppose to do?

The fuel bowl should be Full, key off, and stay full. If you can [watch] the fuel drain, seems to me.. the only place it CAN be going is.. past the FPR seals, and back to the tank. AND... when you crank it.. there's no (not enough) fuel pressure data sent to the PCM to initiate a Start.

Anyone else ????

Joe
 

DaveBen

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There is supposed to be fuel in the filter bowl when not running or on. It should not drain back into the tank. I still can't get my Ford Service DVD to work in my laptop, so I can' look at the fuel diagram.

Dave:dunno
 

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